Czech Switzerland Czech Republic. Bohemian Saxon Switzerland – national park of the Czech Republic

Previous photo Next photo

Bohemian Switzerland National Park (also known as the People's Park) Czech Switzerland"was founded on January 1, 2000 and occupies an area of ​​almost 80 square meters. km. The park is located at northern border with Germany and continues on German territory (there it is called “Saxon Switzerland”). The purpose of creating the park is to preserve natural beauty these places, so human intervention here is strictly limited.

The main wealth of the park is the unique sandstone rock formations, covered with green islands of well-preserved old forests and rare plants. These rocks once rose from the seabed, where sand accumulated over 10 million years to reach a thickness of more than 1 km today. The most important geological processes took place here in the Mesozoic.

The modern amazing landscape of the national park consists of these deposits, compressed into cliffs, which cracked and split under the influence of wind, rivers, temperature changes, etc., forming stunningly picturesque cliffs, rock towers, canyons, arches and windows to this day. The most famous of them is the Rose Hill, the highest in Czech Switzerland.

The main wealth of the park is the unique sandstone rock formations, covered with green islands of well-preserved old forests.

Czech Switzerland is a real forest kingdom. Forest covers almost its entire territory. Mostly coniferous and birch forests grow here, the oldest of which can be found in inaccessible gorges and on high cliffs. Since the soil in the latter is either poor or absent, very resilient representatives of the flora grow here, creating very picturesque pictures with their curved trunks. Animal world The national park is also rich: the landscape creates ideal conditions for nesting of many species of birds, colonies of bats live in rock cracks, and shy and nocturnal animals such as deer live in the forests.

History of Czech Switzerland

The first inhabitants of Bohemian Switzerland were probably hunters, fishermen and gatherers - as was natural for that time, more than 10 thousand years ago. They roamed around the area, establishing settlements near water streams. Tools, pieces of coal and dishes are still found here. Much later, Bohemian Switzerland was partially settled by farmers. From time to time, a fortified fort was erected here and there, and trade caravans passed through the territory of the national park.

Hiking in Bohemian Switzerland

In the 13th and 14th centuries, Bohemian kings invited colonialists here from the territory of modern Germany. The latter built villas, stone castles, started logging, and began producing glass and coal. But, since the forests were dense, and there were no wide plains in Czech Switzerland, the life of these communities had a specific character. The architecture was also specific: in the national park, ancient half-timbered houses of a typical design are still preserved (in particular, in Kamenicka Strana and Vysoka Lipa). In the second half of the 20th century. Many of these settlements, abandoned, have fallen into disrepair, and here and there in the park you can find the most picturesque ruins.

The tourism development of the region began quite early, around the second half of the 18th century. Romantic artists living in Dresden began their first travels through what was later called Saxon Switzerland (the name was adapted in the Czech version). The systematic development of tourism began in the 19th century, when landowners from local estates (the Kinski and Clary-Aldringen families), as well as the first tourist societies (the Mountain Society of Bohemian Switzerland and the Mountain Society of Northern Bohemia) began to gradually increase the attractiveness of the region for travelers. The first walking trails, restaurants, hotels, observation decks and observation towers. Lovers aquatic species Sports people increasingly came here to sail on the Elbe, and the gorges in Kamenice were full of punts.

Tourism in Czech Switzerland

Today, there are dozens of well-marked hiking trails throughout the park. Here you can ride a bicycle, go horseback riding and rock climbing in designated areas, and stay overnight in official camp sites. You can even come here with pets.

But what you can’t do is leave the marked trail in zone I of the park.

Today, on the territory of the national park there are several extremely interesting places, which tourists come from all over Europe to see. This is a natural stone arch 26 by 16 m, which is called the Pravchitsky Gate; gorges of the Kamenice River; Krynica river valley; the famous Pink Hill rock; town of Vysokaya-Lipa; Dolskaya mill; Dittersbacher peaks; waterfalls near Brtniki... We can list them further, but it’s already obvious: spending a day or two in Czech Switzerland is not enough. It’s worth coming here as if you were on a full-fledged vacation.

Practical information

Tourist centers are located in different parts of the national park. The main one is located in Krasnaya Lipa. Information centers- in Saul, Jetrichovice, Srpska Kamenica, Hrensko.

Opening hours of the tourist center in Krasnaya Lipa: daily from 9:00 to 12:00 and from 12:30 to 17:00, in January - February - until 16:00, in June - August - until 18:00.

You can get to Krasnaya Lipa by car in about two hours, if you drive strictly north through Melnik and Ceska Lipa. Another option is to take the train to Germany, to Bad Schandau, which is in the German part of the national park (Saxon Switzerland). This trip will take about two hours.

In the northwestern part of the Czech Republic on the border with Germany there is a Czech national park. Bohemian-Saxon Switzerland is an unspoiled area of ​​wild nature and picturesque places. In Germany this park is called Saxon Switzerland, and in the Czech Republic - Czech. This is due to the fact that the park is located on the territory of two states.

Tourists come to this park not only to enjoy nature, but also to do active species sports You can explore the main sites in just one day, but many stay at the campsite for longer periods of time.

A visit to this national park will give you an unforgettable experience of interacting with wild nature and ancient monuments, which are an important part of the culture not only of the Czech Republic, but throughout Europe.

More than 10 thousand years ago, the first inhabitants of Bohemia lived here, who hunted, fished and collected various berries and herbs. The ancient inhabitants roamed the area and settled mainly near water streams, so modern archaeologists find tools, dishes and used coal.

Farmers settled the area much later. Trade caravans passed through the entire territory of the modern park, and a fortified fort was erected for defense.

In the 13th century, the kings of Bohemia invited the colonialists who settled modern Germany here to make the place more civilized. The colonialists built villas and castles here, and were engaged in industry and coal production. Dense forests and the absence of wide plains meant that many areas remained untouched. There were no places where one could permanently reside or engage in industry. Still, some objects built by man have survived. For example, the runes of ancient half-timbered houses of the 20th century.

The tourism business in Czech Switzerland began to develop very early. In the second half of the 18th century, romantic artists began to come here in search of new little known places. Later in the 19th century, tourism began to develop systematically. It was during this period that farmers from local estates and tourist communities, which were just beginning to form, began to come here. To increase the attractiveness of the area, hiking trails have been established, restaurants, hotels and observation towers have been opened. Even later, tourists began to actively engage in extreme species sports and sailing on the river.

Sights of the park: what to see in Czech Switzerland?

There are no modern attractions in Czech Switzerland, but there are unique natural creations and ancient castles. There are a lot of attractions on the territory, but you can create a route so that you can visit the most in one day. interesting places. It is worth noting that it will be easier to get around by car, but you can truly enjoy the nature of the Czech Republic and partly Germany while walking.

Pravcicka Gate

The symbol of the national park is the Pravchitsky Gate tower. The uniqueness of this natural site is that it is the highest rock in Europe, which has an incredible appearance. This is a natural monumental arch 16 meters high, which has a length of 26 meters.

You can get to the attraction from Grzhensk. From the parking lot you will need to walk about 4 km. You cannot climb the Pravčicka Gate, but you can view the unique natural creation from the outside. Price entrance ticket for adults – 75 CZK, and for children (6-14 years old) – 25 CZK.

If you walk a little further from the Pravchitsky Gate along the wide path, you can see a smaller copy 2 meters high - the Small Gate.

Important! Please note that there is also a narrow path, which is marked in red on the map; it also leads to the Small Pravchitsky Gate, but you will have to wander around the park for a long time.

Falcon's Nest

At the end of the 19th century, a castle was built in the rock near the Pravchitsky Gate, which with its spring appearance resembled a hunting lodge. "Falcon's Nest" is a unique castle of the Clari family, which has been reorganized.

It is now a popular tourist destination, with a restaurant overlooking the natural castle grounds and a museum dedicated to the history and natural diversity of the area.

Lupeznice Castle or Schaunstein

Schaunstein Castle, which is also located in the rock near Vysoki Lipa, was inhabited by robbers, but over time it became empty and lost its former appearance.

It is now a ruin in a dense forest and a popular route through the national park. It is recommended to climb the stairs in the rock tunnel to the observation deck, where an extraordinary view of Czech Switzerland opens. At the bottom of the main tower, a small room was excavated that served as a prison for trespassers and a warehouse.

The place is fully equipped for tourists and is easily accessible, so it’s worth adding to your itinerary for independent travel.

Dolskaya mill

It is difficult to imagine that for several centuries this was a busy place where roads crossed and trade was carried out. Later, when the territory was empty, a fairy tale about a princess was filmed here. Today the Dolskaya Mill is a ruin and a popular attraction in the park.

Royal spruce

Not far from the Dolskaya mill there is the Royal Spruce. Its age is 180 years, and its trunk span is 3 meters. This ancient tree amazes with its scale and majestic appearance.

Khrzhensko

On the border with Germany there is a small but very picturesque city Khrzhensko. In the 15th century, “Bohemian glass” was made in a glass workshop. Tourists will be able to visit this workshop and see with their own eyes the entire process of blowing Czech glass. Tourists often visit the workshop's gift shop, where you can buy various glass vases, glasses, dishes and other items made of crystal and Bohemian glass.

Few people live in the town of Khrzhensko, but everyone is involved in the tourism business. Here you can rent a hotel room, visit a restaurant or buy a souvenir. You can leave your car in the parking lot and walk around the area.

Residents' houses are no less striking objects, because they are decorated authentically and resemble small village houses. What is also unique here is that the city has only two parallel streets that run along both banks. If you drive a little further from the village, you can see the waterfall.

Other attractions

Along with these top attractions and popular tourist places, there are other equally beautiful and ancient route points:

• Abandoned silver mines. It will be interesting to visit this place with a guide who will tell you more about the ancient mines where silver was mined. You can also go down into the mine and feel involved in this industry.

• Falkenstein Castle. This castle is located among the rocks and is difficult to get to. Tourists who decide to climb the mountains will be incredibly amazed by the beauty of nature and architectural features castle building. If you climb to the highest point of the rock, you can see the park territory from above.
• Panska Skala. Another attraction created by nature is a huge 12-meter cliff, which was formed from basalt slabs. A similar natural formation exists in Northern Ireland, but why not visit Panska Skala in Czech Switzerland?

• Belvedere observation deck. This is a natural retreat that overhangs the river canyon, and is located near the town of Binovce. From this city you can take a straight road to a site from which you can see sandy cliffs.
• Gorges Wild and Quiet. Tourists who find themselves on the steep canyon of the Kamenica River can continue exploring Bohemian Switzerland by boat with local gondoliers between the dams. The first place where they will sail is the Wild Gorge, and a little further is the Quiet Gorge. The latter has unique waterfall, which makes its way from the cliff. This is incredible natural object which is a must visit.

• Suha Kamenitsa. At the beginning of spring, the canyon of the stream, which flows into the Elbe River, fills with water and small waterfalls gurgle between the rocks. At other times of the year it is not so unusual here, so tourists rarely visit this place.
• Kamenice Gorge. Not far from the village of Mezne there is a gorge where tourists ride gondolas and enjoy the wild nature.

• Ruzhovsky Vrkh. This place should be visited only by active tourists who are willing to take risks, because you can climb Mount Ružovský Vrh only along winding paths through the thickets of beech forest. There will be no sights along the way, only nature and people. This is an opportunity to test your endurance, to think, and as a result to consider the view that opens up, which deserves all the effort put into the climb.
• Wolf board. This attraction is located near the canyon of the Krinitsa River and is known for its untamed nature. There is also a 17th-century stone slab depicting the story of a successful hunter.

• Decinsky Snezhnik is the most high mountain Czech Switzerland and another observation deck. There is a tower from the mid-19th century, 33 meters high, as well as the ruins of a medieval castle.

Independent travel routes

There are many marked routes throughout the park for independent travel. Tourists can plan a route either on their own or resort to the help of tourist centers. You can also enjoy active sports here: rock climbing, horse riding or cycling.

There are a huge number of routes for independent travel in Czech Switzerland, we will post only some of them that you can use:

• Route 1: Pravcicka brana – Divoka and Ticha Soutezki. The route is approximately 15 km long and will take approximately 5-6 hours.
  
  
• Route 2: Arnoltitsy, Ruzhove and Janov. The length of the route is approximately 17 km and will take approximately 4.5-5 hours.
  
  
• Route 3: Saunštejn Castle – Ptaci kamen observation deck. The length of the route is approximately 11 km and will take approximately 3 hours.
  
• Route 4: Belvedere observation deck. The length of the route is approximately 18 km and will take approximately 5 hours.
  
• Route 5: Jetrichovice rocks. The length of the route is approximately 14 km and will take approximately 4.5 hours.
  
  
• Route 6: Falkenstein Castle – Rinartice – Pavlinino Udoli. The length of the route is approximately 14 km and will take approximately 4 hours.
  
• Route 7: Greater Doubitsky district. The route is approximately 28 km long and will take approximately 8 hours.
  
  
• Route 8: Narrow stairs. The route length is approximately 12-15 km and will take approximately 3-4 hours.
  
  
• Route 9: Ružovsky vrkh. The length of the route is approximately 13 km and will take approximately 4 hours.
  
• Route 10: Jetřichovice Viewpoint – Falkenstein Castle
  
  

How to get from Prague to Czech Switzerland on your own?

There are several ways to get to Czech Switzerland:

• On public transport: you need to take the train to the city of Decin, and then transfer to bus No. 434, which goes to the Hrzhensko stop.
• By car: follow the highway to the town of Decin, and then Hrzhensko. You can leave your car in the parking lot and go explore the national park.
• By steamboat on the Elbe River from the city of Decin, but you need to get to this city by train. The final stop is 800 meters from Grzhensk.

Reviews from tourists

Tourists speak positively about the beauty and uniqueness of this place, but you need to be prepared to walk a lot.

Map of Czech Switzerland

You can see the location of the main attractions of Czech Switzerland on the map of the national park.

There are places from where this amazing piece of earth looks like a region hidden from humanity and preserved in its pristine beauty.

This exceptional natural treasure even ranks with Yosemite National Park and South American Galapagos Islands in the tourist list of favorite places wildlife"Must-visit 501 - Wild places."

However, a closer acquaintance will allow us to be convinced that this region is by no means as uninhabited and pristine as it seems at first glance. As you move through its territory, you will learn that among the deep gorges and high cliffs there are many surprises hidden. The local cliffs are surrounded by steep steps, and on the tops you can see lonely ruins, covered in legends about robber knights, fairies and giants. With all this, the road to this quiet, fabulous land from the noisy capital of Prague takes no more than two hours.

Walk on the seabed

The Bohemian Switzerland National Park is the youngest of the four national parks of the Czech Republic. You will find it on the border with Germany, which separates “Czech Switzerland” from its twin, “Saxon Switzerland”. Millions of years ago the sea stretched here. Having subsided, it left behind a unique region, which, being the lowest point of the Czech Republic, resembles mountains. This land of high sandstone cliffs and towers, rock arches, ravines and mountains with truncated peaks served as a refuge for ancient people more than 10,000 years ago. In the 13-14 centuries, German settlers began to build villages and entire future cities here; fortresses of knights grew on the rocks, who often engaged in robbery. In troubled times local residents they hid here from the armies marching through this region during wars, of which there was never a shortage near the historical border between the Czech and German lands. To this day, you will find here many reminders of these distant events - inscriptions carved on the rocks by the villagers themselves, reconciliatory crosses, rock chapels and abandoned church paths.

Photos: (Martin Rak,Václav Sojka)

Artists, poets and early travelers

The wild nature and hitherto hidden beauty of the region, which developed for a long time without human intervention, were discovered at the end of the 18th century by two Swiss artists of the Romantic era - Adrian Zingg and Anton Graf. Depicting this region in engravings and describing it in poetry, they spread its rapidly growing fame throughout Europe. The sites along the Elbe Canyon have become the cradle of modern tourism, becoming one of the first actively visited tourist attractions in Europe. More and more visitors flocked to the beauty and mystery of Czech Switzerland. One of the most famous landscape painters of all time, Caspar David Friedrich, also came here to obtain the motives for his paintings. The owners of the local estates understood the attractiveness of the local dense forests, as well as the romantic contours of the cliffs, and made a lot of efforts to make them as accessible as possible by building roads and bridges. On Mariana Rock, Welhelm's Wall and Rudolph's Stone, steps were made, benches were placed, and gazebos were placed on the tops. New taverns and places to stay overnight were opened for tourists along the roads, walking paths appeared, and the wild Kamenice River began to be used for movement between gorges.

Not only artists, but also famous poets, writers, and composers came to these virgin lands for their stories and legends. Fortresses of the robber knights, rocky places, legends about gnomes and fairies influenced celebrities, including the storyteller Hans Christian Andersen, the poet R.M. Rilke, composers K.M. von Weber, Richard Wagner and others.

Czech Switzerland in the memoirs of G.H. Andersen and R.M. Rilke

The poet R.M. Rilke visited Jetřichovice in 1892 and recalls his visit this way: “I want, dear reader, to take you to a land where mighty giant rocks reveal their gray giant crowns from a dark fir forest, and meadows strewn with flowers dreamily stretch along a babbling brook. …. Throughout the area, thousands of roads lead you deep into mysterious wilderness. Everything here attracts you to a sweet, carefree holiday - and even today. Long hollows with cushions of moss and a carpet of heather resemble purple feather beds, the trees look like a majestic canopy, and the tall fans of ferns are filled with blissful freshness.”

The passionate traveler Hans Christian Andersen even captured his impressions of the road from his native Copenhagen to the Czech Republic in the book “ Shadow paintings of a journey through the Harz and Saxon Switzerland". Emotionally and romantically, in the spirit of his era, he perceives both the country and the people he met along the way. He spent only a few hours in the Czech Republic, comparing it with the well-known tune that sounds inside us, full of life: “In my memories, this beautiful land spreads out, flooded with sunlight. I clearly see every detail of it, in my soul it is like a beautiful melody, despite the fact that I do not know how to express it in individual tones and motives.

I see this large clearing in the forest with huge spruce trees, where we were told that we had just crossed the border, I see heavily tanned Czech girls with white scarves on their heads and bare feet, who we met in the dark spruce forest, and, finally, the pristine a section of the Pravchitsky Gate rocks, where we stood under a stone arch thrown over our heads by a mighty genius of nature. I see the vast dark forests somewhere below us are distant mountains with snow shimmering in the sun.”

Photo: (Václav Sojka)

And today the Pravchitsky Gate captivates artists, including the creators of fairy tales. Film director "The Chronicles of Narnia - The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe" found the ideal backdrop for his interpretation of this story in the snowy Quiet Rocks. Andrew Adamson chose Tisza because of the richness of the snow cover and the incredibly beautiful terrain with a natural labyrinth of rocks, which few people dared to enter without a guide back in the 19th century. Thus, he wanted to get as close as possible to the world that S.K. Lewis created with his imagination on the pages of books. It was here that Lucy visited the cave of the faun Tumnus, and all four siblings crossed the rock bridge for the first time and looked at the endless forests of Narnia.

The rock town of Til Walls and, in general, the whole of Czech Switzerland today are a real paradise for tourists and climbers. The first sporting forays to the tops of rocks took place already at the beginning of the 20th century. Since then, many climbing routes have appeared here. Climbing is possible to various mountain towers of the rock town with poetic names “Baldur’s Needle”, “Golem”, “Forest Drop”, “Stone of the Wise”, “Rudolfinum”.

© Martin Rak

The once quite extensive fortress of the 13th century two centuries later became the residence of Mikel Blekta from Utěchovice, who with his retinue carried out predatory raids on the surrounding area. At the end of the 15th century, the fortress fell into decay, from the 19th century this place became available to the public.

© Franta Kriváň

Sometimes also called the Robber's Fortress, it is one of the most beautiful rock fortifications in Czech Switzerland. Starting from the turn of the 14th and 15th centuries, it guarded the so-called “Czech Highway” - an important trade route connecting the Czech Republic and Lausitz. The owners of the fortress, the Berkovs from Dube, earned themselves an unflattering reputation as robbers, and the fortification itself served them as a refuge for carrying out robber attacks around. At the end of the 15th century, the site was abandoned and gradually fell into disrepair.
It's definitely worth climbing to the top of the fortress, not only to see the ruins of the fortifications, but also for the magnificent view that opens up at the top.

© Ladislav Renner

At the top of the rock, many thousands of years ago there was a cave of ancient hunters. The fortress that originally stood here was built in the 13th century and gradually changed several owners, among whom was a robber knight, and was surrounded and burned several times. In the 17th century, hermits settled here and lived on the top of the rock for more than a hundred years. Later, Count Kinsky rebuilt the fortress into a place countryside holiday your guests. Among the visitors, the names of the Archdukes Franz Karl and Stephen of Habsburg, the Saxon king Frederick Augustus, and the future Emperor Franz Joseph I visited here with his brothers in 1847.

© Jiří Stejskal

Over the centuries, the once Gothic fortress became both the residence of a noble family and the refuge of robber knights. The current ruins are still covered with many stories and legends. Here, supposedly, the ghosts of the White Lady and a large black dog appear, the dungeon is riddled with a labyrinth of secret passages, and in front of the fortress there is a spring, with the water of which particles of gold scatter; in the stream you can find rare and precious stones.

On a boat to the very end of the world

One of the main attractions of Czech Switzerland, which, according to the authors of the book 501 Wildplaces, should in no case be ignored along with the Pravcicka Gate, is also a romantic boat trip along the Quiet and Wild canyons on the Kamenice River. It's a short but spectacular boat ride with a gondolier between two sheer cliffs - so deep in places that there is very little direct sunlight.

© Tomáš Pavlásek

In Czech Switzerland there is the first observation deck in the creation of which man had a hand. From here there is a stunning view of the deep canyon of the Elbe River, as well as the Zirkelstein and Kaiserkrone mesas located in Germany. Once upon a time, concerts in the lap of nature were held at this site in Clari-Aldringen. By their order, a “terrena” hall was built, a small estate nearby and, somewhat later, a 4-kilometer path for carriages, then leading to their palace in the village of Bynovets. Nowadays this route is marked with tourist markers.

© Václav Sojka

One of the largest natural rock arches on our continent, without a doubt, the most beautiful natural formation of Czech Switzerland and a recognizable symbol of the entire region at first sight. Since 1881, the summer estate “Falcon's Nest”, originally used to accommodate honored guests of the Kläri-Aldringen family, has been inseparably connected with the Pravčicka Gate. Today, the National Park Museum is located on the second floor of the building, and on the first floor there is a preserved stylish restaurant with the original design.

© Vladimir Pešek

Maze length underground passages is 4,500 meters. At the end of World War II, they were laid by prisoners of the Flossenbürg and Rabstein concentration camps. The underground factory produced parts for aircraft, cannons, machine guns and aircraft missiles. Several dozen prisoners died during the construction of the underground factory. Today, the Concentration Camp Museum is located here.

© Jiří Stejskal

A treasure of Northern Bohemia from the Baroque era, designed by the architect Johann Lucas von Hildebrandt. At the place of pilgrimage in the name of Holy Virgin Mary, which is already three hundred years old, liturgies and services are held in honor of the Procession of the Cross and the Holy Staircase.

© Václav Sojka

With its expressive outlines and, above all, its elevation of up to 300 m compared to the rest of the terrain, it creates a bright dominant feature of the area. With an altitude of 619 m above sea level, the so-called Bohemian Fuji is the highest point of the Czech Switzerland National Park, and in the region of Bohemian-Saxon Switzerland it is the second highest mountain after Dečín Sneznik. It is likely that at one time pagan rituals were performed here, and there was also a place of pilgrimage. German tribes allegedly worshiped Ružov Hill as the abode of the gods. The motif of this mountain is noticeable in many paintings - for example, “Traveler over the Sea of ​​Fogs” (Poutník nad mořem mlh) (1818) by the German artist Gaspar David Friedrich.

This was once a serious obstacle that residents of local villages on the right bank had to somehow overcome when they wanted to get to the church on the other side of the river in the village of Růžová. At the same time, wood has been floated along the majestic river routes since time immemorial, and in winter, when the local waters were abundant with trout and salmon, they became a paradise for fishermen. Once in 1877, in the tavern “At the Green Tree” (U Zeleného stromu) in the town of Hřensko, five daredevils made a bet that they would sail on rafts from the Dolskaya mill to the place that was then called “the end of the world.” On floating structures 4 meters long, they actually safely reached Grzhensk, in fact, becoming the founders of the tourist use of these waterways. Prince Clari-Aldringen invited specialists from Italy, under whose leadership, with the help of over two hundred workers, these areas became accessible to the public. Suspended walkways and bridges were laid here, and tunnels were built with the help of explosives. On May 4, 1890, the opening of the “Quiet” (“Edmond”) canyon took place in a solemn ceremony. Since then, “at the very end of the world,” in fact, nothing much has changed, the beauty of nature remains untouched, and the carriers, as more than 130 years ago, push and guide their boats with poles.

Photo: (Jerzy Strzelecki, Václav Sojka)

Even 2 weeks before the trip to the Czech Republic, I began to plan some kind of 2-day trip to nature. After some information gathering, I chose the option of Bohemian-Saxon Switzerland.
Bohemian and Saxon Switzerland are essentially one natural complex sandstone cliffs and gorges, caught in two neighboring countries: Czech Republic and Germany (Saxony). Those. Czech Switzerland turns out to be the gateway to another Switzerland, even more picturesque: Saxon, i.e. to Germany.
First of all, I booked rooms at the Labe Hotel on the website http://www.labehotel.cz/gb/
This hotel is located in the town of Hrensko.
You can also choose other hotels there. You can see the list here -
Czech Switzerland Hotels, pensions:
http://www.cztour.cz/ru/hotels-pansion.php
My friend and I first traveled from Prague by train to Decin.
You can, for example, take the EuroCity 178 Johannes Brahms train at 6:31 and be there at 8 am
in Decin, and from there by bus about 20-25 minutes and on the spot in Grzensko
And the whole day is ahead!
For reference, the train to Decin costs 165 CZK (if you book in advance, as I understand it
it will cost even less) The exchange rate at that time was 1 euro = 25 crowns.
All information on trains and buses can and should be found on the website -
http://jizdnirady.idnes.cz/vlakyautobusymhd/spojeni/

Here is the Labe Hotel. The bus stops almost 40 meters from the hotel.

In general, we checked into a hotel. I took 2 numbers. I really liked the layout - there was access from 2 rooms to one balcony.

A couple of panoramic shots

In Grzhensko there is practically one road and along it there are guesthouses, restaurants, many shops and a lot of shops where the Vietnamese sell their goods.
In general, the Czech Republic is overrun with Vietnamese. They sell all kinds of cheap consumer goods in all
Czech cities. And the Vietnamese turned out to be quite impudent. When I was walking around Grzhensko, one Vietnamese lady, furious that I was not reacting to her product, hit me on the legs with a stick.

Here you can see Hotel Praha- probably the most expensive hotel here in this place

Such a small square in this Grzensko

Houses are located under rocks - but when it rains heavily, there may be a rock collapse

Country idyll

Road along the Elbe. Germany is on the other side

On the other side is the German side (train station). On the Czech side you can see part of the ferry on which we will cross to the other side tomorrow.

On the road along which we arrived by bus there are Duty Free shops.
The border is with Germany after all. Prices are really lower than, for example, in Prague.

We ate and drank beer in one of the many restaurants and then continued on our way
lay in the Pravčicka brane.

Read the continuation.

My first trip to “Czech Switzerland” ( České Švýcarsko) was of a random nature: while preparing for a Christmas tour of European cities (the main of which was Prague), I was looking for what to see in the territory different countries and how best to plan your route. And then I came across the Pravchitsky Gate. “What is this, where is it, how is it?” - there were no answers on the Internet, which means you have to go and explore everything yourself!

And on the way from Dresden to Prague after the national park “Saxon Switzerland” (and I already talked about the trip there) I find myself in “Czech Switzerland”. The nature there is really different from what I am used to seeing in the center of the Czech Republic.

Yes, and visiting at least the main attractions promises leisure. On my second visit to the national park in summer, not winter, I spent the whole day exploring “Saxon” and “Czech” Switzerland: I left Dresden early in the morning and returned to Prague late in the evening. And this takes into account the fact that the distance between the cities is some 150 kilometers - no match for intercity trips across Russia.

I had to walk a lot, so I advise you to be fully armed: sports shoes (preferably with soft shock-absorbing soles, since after just the Pravchitsky Gate my legs were literally “humming”), comfortable clothes, a bottle of water and maybe some kind of... then a snack.

So, what is “Czech Switzerland” like and what can you see there? I'll tell you now.

History of the park

I have not heard any legends or epics around the rocks, crevices and canyons formed here several thousand years ago due to the movement of volcanic rocks.

Therefore, I had to look for interesting information myself. It turns out that in the 13th–14th centuries, colonialists were invited here from the lands where modern Germany is now located, and castles and other buildings were built by them. They also started glass production and coal mining. But due to the lack of plains and dense forests, their life was, to put it mildly, not simple and very specific. In one place, I saw with my own eyes that food and other necessary things cannot be delivered here so easily. But more on that below.

So, all this specificity was reflected in the architecture. But in the last century, many buildings and even settlements fell into disrepair. Probably, the opportunity and availability of an easier life played an important role and people simply simply moved. Now, in some places on the territory of “Czech Switzerland” you can see the most picturesque ruins!

I have already talked about the name of the park, namely the word “Switzerland”, so I will not repeat it. In 2000, this area was given the status national reserve.

Geography of the park

České Švýcarsko- all the same Elbe Sandstone Mountains that I talked about at More precisely, a quarter of this mountain range. The national park is located in the north of the country, its western border runs along the Elbe River. It was from there that I visited “Czech Switzerland” both times. Actually, both national parks (“Saxon” and “Czech”) are separated by the border between Germany and the Czech Republic; they are adjacent to each other.

The most high point National Park - Mount Decin Snezhnik ( Děčínský Sněžník) - located at 723 meters above sea level. When I first heard about this, I smiled: I arrived in “Czech Switzerland” shortly after the Austrian Alps, where I lived in a hotel at an altitude of approximately 1,200–1,300 meters. But, after all, the reserve is not famous for its mountains!

Further in the text I added some cards. They will help you better understand the geography of the area, but they are unlikely to explain how to get to a specific attraction. But! In the near future locality for each of them (and they are visible on my maps) you can take a detailed paper map, as well as use signs along the roads and trails. The park took care of the convenience of sightseeing, which I personally really liked.

How to get to “Czech Switzerland”

There are basically two options: with a tour or on your own. I chose to travel in a rented car without guides or a group of onlookers. But for those who want to take a tour of the reserve, I advise you to read about tours from Dresden or Prague to “Saxon Switzerland” (I think they also offer tours to the Czech part). The prices, it seems to me, are similar, because there are parks in the neighborhood. Below I will tell you about an independent journey to “Czech Switzerland” by car.

From Prague

From Prague you can enter “Czech Switzerland” from different directions. There is an option to travel through Hřensko. It is not far from this city that the Pravchitsky Gate is located. By the way, the first time I read Hřensko as Hrensko (I didn’t notice the gachek above the letter “r”, which makes the sound [rzh]), and so it happened: to this day I refer to the innocent town almost as a vegetable (everyone makes associations to the extent of depravity, right?). I marked the route Via Khrzhensko on the map below, the first half of the route will pass through the highway, and then I propose to follow the usual highway past towns and picturesque fields.

You can also enter via Jetřichovice. To reach the town of Děčín, the route is the same as the previous one, and at the fork follow the signs.

Or Krasná Lípa. In theory, you can drive through the same Děčín, it seems to me that in terms of time it will not be too much of a detour.

But the last half hour flew by faster: there were still no toilets along the way, the flow of hikers was small, but there was always one, so now the attitude is “get there!” was supported not only by curiosity, but also by obvious necessity.

Along the way, I came across these cute “installations”: I don’t know who “propped up” the mountain and why, but the spectacle amused me.

And finally you can see the Falcon's Nest estate (now a hotel/restaurant of the same name) and the Pravchitsky Gate to the right of it. It would seem that you just have to extend your hand. This was not the case: the vertical distance from me to my destination was several tens of meters, which also had to be walked in a loop.

But all the efforts were justified. The height of the arch itself reaches 26 meters, so that, standing in this natural opening, you feel all the greatness of nature. In addition, near the gate there was a stall with my favorite ones. By the way, they were cheaper than: only 1.25 EUR or 34 CZK.

Once through the gate arch, you can see many paths leading to observation decks. And literally “the whole world is at your feet.”

"Falcon's Nest"

Almost under the Pravchitsky Gate is the summer estate Falcon's Nest. Once upon a time, the owners accommodated noble guests there. Now inside the castle there is an exhibition about the history of “Czech Switzerland” and there is a restaurant.

The restaurant has preserved original paintings, and the interior is designed in the style of the beginning of the last century.

I didn’t have dinner at the restaurant, since the local employee, as I understood, had already closed it. To be honest, I couldn’t fully understand him: he agreed to speak only in Czech and German, so the conversation was almost “hands-on”. But they did let me into the toilet.

Near the Falcon's Nest there is a booth with control of the cable car.

I understand that walking and carrying the necessary things is not easy here, so there is a utility box running along the cable car, where you can put the necessary things and send them upstairs or downstairs.

Lupežnice Castle or Schaunštejn

I heard that the castle used to be a robbery site. That is, it was built as a fortification, but later it was captured by robbers and changed its name. Šaunštejn translates as “thieves' castle.”

The castle itself has not been preserved, so at present you can be content with ruins and a good viewing platform.

Connecting bridges are laid between parts of this site. You know, the sensations are quite exciting when you walk like this literally next to an abyss along a connecting structure that is quite easy at first glance!

Dolský Mlýn

They say that the fragments preserved from the mill date back to the beginning of the 14th century!

I heard that in the middle of the last century the place even became the setting of a Czech fairy tale film. You could even say that the film glorified this landmark.

Over time, without maintenance, the mill deteriorated more and more, until in 2007 it was declared a cultural monument and the process of destruction was stopped.

By the way, a hundred meters upstream there is a unique building: a reinforced concrete bridge. I heard that this is the first such structure (made of steel and concrete) in the Austro-Hungarian Empire, the bridge was built shortly before its collapse.

The closest village to the mill is Kamenická Stráň, a kilometer away.

Royal spruce

They say that there is one spruce half a kilometer from the Dolskaya mill. Its age is about 180 years, and the trunk span is about 3 meters. Alas, I myself did not see this ancient tree, since I was limited in time, but don’t be lazy and take a walk to it from the mill.

Hřensko

To be honest, I really liked this small town almost on the border with Germany. Most likely, there are few just residents here: almost everyone runs a hotel, restaurant or something else for the needs of tourists. But the 2-3 storey houses are decorated very authentically, this is exactly how small rural towns or villages seem to me.

I also liked the fact that globally there are only two streets in Khrzhensko, running parallel along the two banks. Of course, the high cliffs do not provide room for expanding the territory deeper.

If you drive along the river from the highway where you turned to Khrzhensko (remember, I asked you to remember this path?), then at the very end of it, in front of the parking lot, which I mentioned in the part about the Pravchitsky Gate, there is a waterfall.

Near it, I took two identical pictures towards the city: one in winter, and the second in summer.

The difference, in my opinion, is not big.

There are a lot of souvenirs near the track, but I didn’t buy anything there. It’s hard to say what the prices are: on the one hand, this is the Czech Republic, on the other, Germany and its prices are quite close. There is also another parking lot; you can ask the workers about a toilet nearby.

Other attractions

There are places where I was not able to visit, but I will definitely make up for it on my next visit:

• Dittersbacher peaks.
• Waterfalls near Brtnikov.
• A boat trip along the Křinice River (Kirnitzschklamm) on the border of the Czech Republic and Germany.

And this is just what remained in my ears after the trip. I'm almost sure that if you start digging, even less may emerge tourist places national park.

Routes around the park

At the moment, there are dozens of well-marked hiking trails and routes in the park: signs, certain specific coverage and relief for the type of tourism, picturesqueness. In “Czech Switzerland” you can go rock climbing, horseback riding, cycling, and camping in equipped areas (and only in them!).

True, I explored the territory on my own, without resorting to the help of tourist centers, but I can tell you the addresses of organizations that will help, if necessary, organize your leisure time:

• In the city of Krasná Lipa.
  • Opening hours: June - August from 09:00 to 18:00, January - February until 16:00, in other months until 17:00; break from 12:00 to 12:30.
  • Address: Krinicke nam. 5, Krasna Lipa 407 46.
• In Hřensko.
  • Opening hours: November - January from 09:00 to 17:00, in other months until 18:00.
  • Address: Hřensko 71, 407 17 Hřensko.
• In Srbska Kamenice.
  • Address: Nam. Miru 73, Ceska Kamenice, 407 21.
• In Jetřichovice.
  • Address: Jetšichovice 393, CZ - 407 16.

Among the main routes, I know, there are:

• To the rock gate (Pravchitsky): along ornate stones and paths, then along the rock wall (I passed it too). Then the “Falcon's Nest” program - a visit to observation platforms on the tops of the rocks near the gate.
• To the Dolskaya mill.
• To Schaunstein.

Where to stay

If you want to choose camping over a hotel, then in the above mentioned tourist centers You should inquire about special parking areas; you cannot set up a tent camp outside of equipped campsites: it is a specially protected zone, after all.

If you are more attracted to the east, then choose Krasna Lipa or Hřibská.

Room prices start from 8–10 EUR for a campsite and from 45 EUR for a double room.

"Czech Switzerland" in winter

I was in the national park in winter, but their winter was quite slushy at that time, so walking along the forest paths was out of the question. Falcon's Nest Castle is, again, a summer castle. So we had to be content with waterfalls on rivers and towns around “Czech Switzerland”.

If you want to see much more of the above, I recommend coming in the summer!

Anything to add?