Kalmykia and its inhabitants: a view from the outside. Kalmykia and its inhabitants: a view from the outside What to try and what to buy
The focus of this article will be the Republic of Kalmykia. The capital of this region, Elista, is completely different from other Russian cities. It’s worth coming here if only to get acquainted with the enchanting world of Buddhist wisdom. Kalmykia cannot yet be called a tourist paradise, but the region is steadily developing, new hotels are appearing. In this land of ancient nomads, you can live in a real tent, see herds of wild horses, and ride a camel. Read about how to get to the Republic of Kalmykia, where to stay, what to see and try, and what to bring with you as a souvenir. We will also highlight complicated story steppe people and their modern way of life.
Location
The Republic of Kalmykia is located in the European part of the Russian Federation. In the south it borders with the Stavropol Territory. However, the majority of the indigenous population of the republic professes Buddhism. This is what makes Kalmykia so interesting. You don't need to fly to Thailand or Mongolia to see pagodas, prayer stupas and sculptures of Buddha sitting in meditation. All this is in Elista. Kalmykia, located in the south of the Russian Federation, is quite large. Its area is seventy-six thousand square kilometers larger than the territory of Belgium, Switzerland, the Netherlands or Denmark. It extends from south to north for four hundred and fifty-eight kilometers, and from east to west - 423 km. In the south, the natural borders of the republic are the Kuma and Manych rivers. In the southeast it is washed by the Caspian Sea. From the northeast, the territory of Kalmykia approaches the Volga. And in the northwestern part it is limited by the Ergeninskaya Upland.
Climate
Due to its large territory it is located in three natural areas- deserts, semi-deserts and steppes. The terrain here is predominantly flat, and therefore there are frequent strong winds, sometimes developing into dry winds. The climate in the republic is continental. Temperatures in summer can reach +42 degrees. Winters have little snow, but bitter frosts. The continental climate increases sharply from west to east. But in the south of the republic, the average January temperature reaches only minus eight degrees Celsius. The coldest winter is in the northeastern regions. There frosts can reach -35 degrees Celsius and below. But the republic can boast of a huge number of clear days. The sun shines here about 184 days a year. This is also associated with a long warm period - 250-270 days. And although the average temperature in July is only +24.5 °C, maximums are not uncommon. Without exaggeration, we can say that this subject of the Russian Federation challenges the Volgograd region for the title of the hottest region.
Economy
On the territory of the republic there are deposits belonging to the Caspian province of the oil and gas reservoir. The Ermolinsky and Burulsky wells are currently in operation. Wind energy resources have great potential for the development of the region. The government of Kalmykia is taking the first steps towards ensuring that the movement of air masses does not cause damage to agriculture, but brings benefits. In particular, Kalmykskaya is currently being built. A big problem for agriculture is that there is little precipitation - about two hundred to three hundred millimeters per year. Therefore, reservoirs are important for agriculture. The largest of them, Chograyskoye, is located on the border of the Stavropol Territory.
Rivers and lakes of Kalmykia
The sandy coast of the Caspian Sea, replete with small bays, represents enormous potential for the development of tourism in Kalmykia. Alas, it is not used yet. The Volga crosses the territory of the republic only on a twelve-kilometer stretch. Other freshwater arteries are the Kuma (it separates Kalmykia from Dagestan), Eastern and Western Manych, and Yegorlyk. Most of the rivers in Kalmykia are small, drying up in summer, and at other times carrying bitter-salty water. Therefore, the main landscapes in the republic are dry steppes and semi-deserts. However, we cannot fail to mention the lakes for which Kalmykia is famous. You've probably already seen a photo of the Big Yashalta Lake. Medicinal properties its waters are surpassed only by the Dead Sea. So far, only one treatment center is located on its shores. It was built recently and, probably, other similar institutions will be built here soon. After all, people come to the still wild shore of the lake to treat a lot of diseases - from respiratory to reproductive.
It is impossible to pass over in silence, covered in legends. It received its name because of the wind that makes mournful, frightening sounds over the surface. The nesting areas for waterfowl are Deed-Khulsun. Other important lakes are Sostinsky and Sarpinsky, Maloe Yashaltinskoye.
Flora and fauna of Kalmykia
Kalmykia, whose photos often depict endless steppes and semi-deserts, is the most treeless region in the entire Russian Federation. The vegetation here is represented by feather grass, tumbleweed, and other species adapted to the arid climate and brackish soils. About one hundred and thirty species of birds nest on the lakes of the republic. Twenty-three of them are listed in the Red Book of the Russian Federation. But what Kalmykia is famous for is the fact that the only saiga population in Europe lives on its territory. To protect this endangered species from complete extinction, the Black Lands Nature Reserve was established in 1990. It stretches between the Kuma and Volga over an area of one hundred and twenty thousand hectares. The lake Manych-Gudilo, already mentioned by us, with twelve islands is also located here. Tourists come here to see the nesting places of swans, bustards, Dalmatian pelicans, and also to watch herds of wild horses running. It’s good to be on Manych-Gudilo in windy weather. Then giant waves (up to 12 meters high!) roll across the lake. And the wind howls so much that it seems that all the evil spirits from Kalmyk legends have flown here for the Sabbath. True, there are no tourist centers on the shore of the lake yet. Accommodation is possible only in the private sector of the village of Yashalta or in guest houses of the reserve.
Population of Kalmykia
According to Rosstat data for 2015, two hundred eighty and a half thousand people live in the republic. And in the 2010 Census this figure was 289,481. This decrease in population is explained by internal migration. But in recent years this outflow has decreased. Kalmykia is gradually ceasing to be. Taking into account the huge territory of the republic, we can judge that it is small here: about four people per square kilometer. Urban residents make up forty-five percent of all residents of the region. And if we remember that in the Republic of Kalmykia the capital has a population of 103,730 people, it turns out that the population density is even less. In addition to Elista, there are two more cities - Lagan and Gorodovikovsk. According to the 2010 Census, ethnic composition in the republic is as follows: the majority (57%) are Kalmyks, 33% are Russians, the remaining 10% are other nationalities.
Authorities
The People's Khural of the Republic adopts laws and acts. This Parliament includes twenty-seven deputies. The Khural represents the legislative branch. The highest official is the Head of the Republic. He heads the executive branch and forms the Government of Kalmykia. For seventeen years, the Head of the Republic was Kirsan Nikolaevich Ilyumzhinov. This man did a lot to ensure that Kalmykia, the capital Elista and other cities and villages acquired a European appearance. In 2010, on the recommendation of the President of the Russian Federation V.V. Putin, he was replaced in this post by Alexey Maratovich Orlov.
History of the region
It is not simple and sometimes tragic. Various peoples roamed these steppes. Cimmerians, Sarmatians and Scythians, as well as Khazars, Huns, Cumans and Pechenegs replaced each other, leaving behind mounds and remains of ancient settlements. This explains such a diverse culture of Kalmykia. In the 13th century, these lands were part of the Golden Horde. More than two hundred cultural and historical monuments have been preserved in Kalmykia. Five of them are protected Russian Federation. The Kalmyk people, like the Crimean Tatars, became victims of deportation. By order of Stalin, people were evicted from their native villages. Thousands of them never returned home. The “Exodus and Return” memorial, made by Ernest Neizvestny, is dedicated to these tragic pages in the history of the Kalmyk people. The monument is located in Elista.
Modern culture is inextricably linked with the dominant religion in the Republic. After all, Kalmyks are the only people in Europe who profess Buddhism. Everywhere here you can find khuruls - characteristic Lamaist complexes. For a long time, Kalmyks were forbidden to practice their religion. There wasn't one active temple, and the old ones were destroyed. The most ancient of the surviving ones is the khurul in the village of Tsagan-Aman, dating back to the beginning of the 20th century.
How to get there
The capital of Elista receives most of the guests of the Republic of Kalmykia. There is one airport in the city. It receives regular flights from Moscow, Stavropol, Rostov-on-Don and Mineralnye Vody. Travel by bus from the capital of the Russian Federation, although it will cost less than a plane (1800 rubles), but lasts more than a day. To get to Elista by train, you first need to get to Stavropol. There you should change to another train moving along the line from the Divnoye station. From Stavropol to Elista you will spend eight hours on the road if you choose ground transport. Bus service also connects the capital of Kalmykia with Volgograd and Astrakhan.
Elista
This city is called the Buddhist capital. It was founded at the end of the nineteenth century. The capital of Kalmykia is Elista - small town. Only one hundred thousand people live in it. Therefore, to get to know him, you can rely on your own feet. Although minibuses are constantly scurrying around the city, there are no traffic jams in the city. The color of Elista fascinates tourists. The abundance of prayer stupas and Buddhist temples is especially striking. It is recommended to visit the Golden Abode of Shakyamuni. This is the largest Buddhist temple in Europe. It consists of seven levels. It is decorated with a twelve-meter statue of the Enlightened One, covered with inlay with real diamonds. The temple contains holy relics: for example, the clothes of the Dalai Lama from the 14th century. The Seven Days Pagoda has a two-meter prayer drum from a tantric monastery in India. It has mantras written in gold letters in several languages.
What to try and what to buy
Prices in restaurants and cafes in Elista are reasonable. On average, lunch will cost three hundred to four hundred rubles. Be sure to try the “berigi” dumplings, “bortsoki” fried pies, offal soup, lamb and “dzhomba” tea.
In memory of the Republic of Kalmykia, the capital offers a wide variety of souvenirs. These are mainly clothes made of camel wool and felt products - for example, yurt boxes. You need to visit a special area of Elista - City Chess. Everything here is dedicated to chess. And on main street mini-town - Ostap Bender Avenue, there is a monument to the Great Combinator. City Chess was built by Kirsan Ilyumzhinov, former and also President of the International Chess Association.
Distinctive features. The lands of Kalmykia have seen a lot. At different times, Cimmerians, Scythians, Sarmatians, Huns, Khazars, Pechenegs, Polovtsians, Tatars, and Nogais lived here. The Kalmyks themselves arrived here from Central Asia around the middle of the 17th century. And although, having settled on Russian lands, they swore allegiance to the Russian Tsar, they still founded their Kalmyk Khanate. To be fair, it is worth noting that the Kalmyks reliably defended the southern borders of Russia from all sorts of adversaries.
What is interesting about Kalmykia? First of all, its unique culture. Kalmyks are the only people in Europe who profess Buddhism. This religion also had a huge influence on local architecture, where we can see buildings more typical of China or Japan, and not of the southern Russian lands. There are 27 temple-monasteries (khuruls) on the territory of Kalmykia, the largest of which is located in Elista. Almost all of them are new buildings, since the ancient khuruls were destroyed in the 20-30s of the last century.
Kalmykia is a predominantly agricultural republic. The share of industry in the economy does not exceed 4%. In addition to agriculture, transport, trade, and tourism are developing here. Among the oddities, one can recall the attempt of the President of Kalmykia, Kirsan Ilyumzhinov, to turn Elista into the world chess capital, but this goal remained a good intention, but the Kalmyk capital acquired its own chess palace.
Geographical location. Kalmykia is located in the south of the European part of Russia, on the northwestern coast of the Caspian Sea. In the south it borders with Dagestan and the Stavropol Territory, in the west - with the Rostov and Volgograd regions, in the northeast - with the Astrakhan region. It is part of the Southern Federal District.
Almost the entire territory of Kalmykia is covered with plains. Most of it is occupied by the Caspian Lowland, and in the west there is the Kuma-Manych depression. The Kalmyk reserves are home to a unique antelope - the saiga, preserved in Russia only in Kalmykia and the Astrakhan region.
From large rivers The Volga flows through the territory of Kalmykia. There are very few lakes (except for the largest lake in the world - the Caspian Sea). main sources fresh water concentrated on the border with the Stavropol Territory. First of all, this is the Chogray reservoir.
Population. Kalmykia has a population of 284,140 people. It so happened that the local population - the Kalmyks - were a nomadic people, and in order to accustom these people to settle down and create permanent settlements in Kalmykia, the tsarist government actively stimulated migration to Kalmykia from the southern Russian provinces. The demographic situation in Kalmykia was influenced by big influence and the deportation of Kalmyks in 1943. True, already in 1956 the Kalmyks were rehabilitated and they were allowed to return to their homeland.
Lagan. Buddhist temple - khurul. Photo by alaudo (http://fotki.yandex.ru/users/alaudo/)
By national composition, 56.22% of the population are Kalmyks, 29.61% are Russians. In third place in number are the Dargins, one of the peoples of Dagestan (2.62%). In the capital Elista, the share of Kalmyks is slightly larger - 63.3%.
Crime. The Republic of Kalmykia ranks 58th in the criminal ranking of regions. The situation here is calm, and the crime rate has not changed for many years. Perhaps this is due to the fact that the majority of the local population professes Buddhism? And, as you know, Buddhism encourages the renunciation of desires, especially those that can harm other beings...
Unemployment rate in Kalmykia - one of the highest in Russia - 13.11%. This is partly due to the extremely weak development of Kalmyk industry. As for salaries, their level in Kalmykia is also low - 14,899 rubles. The situation is more or less favorable only in the area government controlled and in the fuel and energy complex, where the average salary is twice as high.
Abandoned fishing boats near Lagan. Photo by ant-arkhipov (http://fotki.yandex.ru/users/ant-arkhipov/)
Property value. The housing market in Elista is surprising in that here you can find a variety of price offers for any wallet size. So, for 1 million rubles you can find both a one-room apartment and a three-room apartment. If you are interested in renting, then you can rent a decent apartment for 10-15 thousand rubles per month.
Climate Kalmykia is sharply continental. The average January temperature is −9°C. In summer, in the hottest month of July, the average temperature reaches +25°C, and the peak temperature reaches forty degrees above zero. Droughts and hot winds are frequent in this region. This requires constant irrigation of agricultural land, which is not so easy given the widespread shortage of fresh water. The annual precipitation in the republic is 250-300 mm.
Due to frequent and strong winds in Kalmykia, wind energy is a promising area, but it is this moment is not implemented.
The Caspian Sea off the coast of Kalmykia is quite warm. In summer it warms up to +26°. You can swim in it from May until the end of September. Fishing and aquatic species Sports are considered one of the promising areas of tourism in Kalmykia.
Cities of the Republic of Kalmykia
The pink lotus has become a lure for tourists coming to Kalmykia. Photo by olegmozg (http://fotki.yandex.ru/users/olegmozg/)
Trinity- a village with a population of 12.3 thousand people. Founded in 1862 by settlers from the Voronezh province. Now people of various nationalities live in Troitsky - Russians, Kalmyks, Germans, Ukrainians, etc. Among the production facilities, only food industry enterprises can be noted. Among the attractions are the traditional khurul for Kalmykia and the monument to the victims of deportation.
Elista is the capital of the Republic of Kalmykia and is considered the chess capital of Russia. Everything here is imbued with the spirit of chess, and many of the city’s attractions are connected specifically with chess. Elista often hosts major international chess tournaments with the participation of the most famous chess grandmasters in the world. And Elista, together with Ulan-Ude, is one of the largest Buddhist centers in Russia. Today I will show you this glorious city. 2. Elista was founded in 1865. And nine years earlier, Russian Emperor Nicholas II, by his decree, ordered the planting of forests on the Kalmyk steppes. Naturally, there was a need for people who would do this. The founder of Elista is considered to be Stepan Prokopyevich Kiykov, a former serf. In 1862, he built the first house on the territory of modern Elista. In 1865 it was already a small village consisting of 10 households. 3. Monument to the hero of the Patriotic War of 1812, commander of the second Astrakhan Kalmyk regiment, Prince Serbedzhab Tyumen. It is installed at the entrance to the city from the eastern side. 4. South Gate of the Golden Abode of Buddha Shakyamuni. They are built in traditional oriental style and painted in three colors - red, blue and gold. The gate looks very beautiful and solemn, because according to Buddhist traditions, it is the South Gate that is considered the main entrance to the territory of the Golden Monastery. 5. Golden Abode of Buddha Shakyamuni. Buryatia is usually considered the center of Buddhism in Russia. But the largest Buddhist temple (not only in Russia, but also in Europe) is located in Kalmykia, in the center of Elista. The building is shaped like a mandala and seems to float in space, surrounded by a fence with many white stupas. In the very center there is a copper prayer drum, about 2 meters high, covered with gold leaf. It is designed to give harmony and peace to the residents of the city. It contains 75 million mantras. According to the Buddhist tradition, one rotation of the drum with pure thoughts is equivalent to reading all these mantras. 14. 15. Light and musical fountain “Three Lotuses”. Lotus flowers in Buddhism symbolize purity. Buddhist temple. The statue of Shakyamuni Buddha is enclosed inside a hexagonal rotunda - a pagoda. The statue is made of white marble. But, in Last year Buddha is covered with a yellow robe. 25. 26. Tree of wishes, lovers come here and leave locks 27. 28. House of Soviets. Built in 1928-1932. as a building for the regional Kalmyk committee of the All-Union Communist Party of Bolsheviks. Architectural monument of federal significance. Currently, the building houses the First Building of Kalmyk University. 29. 30. Cinema 31. Monument to A.S. Pushkin. Probably, there are monuments to Pushkin and Lenin in every Russian city) 32. 33. 34. Monument to the dzhangarchi Eelyan Ovla, a Kalmyk dzhangarchi, that is, a singer and storyteller. From him the Kalmyk people heard songs from the folklore work “Dzhangar” for the first time. This is the most famous Kalmyk epic, known throughout the world. Eelyan Ovl came from a family of storytellers; from childhood he was trained to become a dzhangarchi and taught to sing epic songs to people. In 1908, the scientist Nomto Ochirov recorded all the songs performed by Eelyan. 35. In front of the Elista Hotel building there is a sculpture “Dragon Lu” - a large stone statue depicting a lying dragon, stylized in an oriental manner. 42. In the center of City Chessa there is the Mikhail Tal Museum of Chess Glory. Initially, the museum was opened as a chess museum, and it has become the only museum of its kind in the world. The museum consists of two parts. The first contains an exhibition entirely dedicated to chess: various chess tournaments and chess players; interesting chess boards and pieces, cups, winners’ trophies, paintings, and documents are also presented here. In the second part you can see the personal belongings of Mikhail Tal himself; there are about 3000 of them. You can always play chess in the museum; tables with boards are placed in special game rooms, which are never empty.
The history of the Kalmyks as a people begins at the end of the 16th century, when the Oirat tribes were divided into three parts, one of which moved from Central Asia to the territory of the modern Republic of Kalmykia, where it consolidated within Russia in 1609.
The first time was accompanied by frequent wars, including internecine wars, changes in borders and nomadic movements. Periodically, Kalmyks swear allegiance to Russia, but often violate agreements by attacking Russians. But around the end of the 18th century, a quiet life began as part of Russia.
In 1917, the so-called Steppe Region of the Kalmyk people was formed, and in 1920 - the Kalmyk Autonomous Region, which 15 years later was transformed into the Kalmyk Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic.
1943 was one of the darkest years in the history of the Kalmyks - the Kalmyk Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic was abolished, its territory was transferred to the Astrakhan region, and almost all Kalmyks were deported (mainly to Siberia).
Only 14 years later did the Kalmyks return to their homeland, and in 1958 the Kalmyk Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic was restored, which in 1992 was renamed the Republic of Kalmykia.
Geography and climate of Kalmykia
Republic of Kalmykia has many neighbors, in the south - the Stavropol Territory and the Republic of Dagestan, in the east - the Astrakhan region, in the west - Rostov, and in the north - the Volgograd region. Part of the southeastern territory is washed by the Caspian Sea.
The flat territory of the region is mainly covered with endless steppes, semi-deserts and deserts.
The Caspian Sea is not the only water resource republics. In one of the places, Kalmykia, with a narrow ledge, opens up to the Volga - there is the city of Tsagan Aman, in addition to this, the Kuma and Manych rivers flow on the territory of the republic. There are also lakes on the territory of Kalmykia: Sarpinsky Lakes, Yashalta Salt Lake and Sostinsky Lakes.
The climate of the Republic of Kalmykia is sharply continental. Its features are hot and dry summers, as well as little snow and not the coldest winters (although sometimes the temperature in winter drops significantly). In addition to low precipitation and aridity, a feature of the climate is constant winds.
Nature of Kalmykia
IN Republic of Kalmykia There are practically no forests and most of the fauna and flora are steppe representatives.
First of all, among them it is worth noting various rodents (gophers, marmots) and saigas, for the protection of which the Black Lands Nature Reserve was created. In addition to them, you can find brown hares, hedgehogs, jerboas and corsacs here. The flora here is represented by truly steppe and desert plants: feather grass, wormwood, camel thorn, cornflowers and Schrenk's tulips.
The second section of this reserve also protects numerous populations of various birds: pelicans, swans, greylag geese, bustards, cranes, gulls, swallows and others.
Population and economy of Kalmykia
There are three cities in the republic: Elista, Lagan and Gorodovikovsk and 13 administrative districts. The total population is less than 300 thousand people. As you would expect, the majority of the population is Kalmyks, and there are also many Russians. Other nationalities are also represented, mainly residents of other southern republics.
The economy of the Republic of Kalmykia is poorly developed, industry is mainly concentrated in the extraction of minerals (oil and natural gas), there is mechanical engineering, metalworking and the production of building materials.
The rural population is engaged in the cultivation of grain crops, vegetables and melons, as well as animal husbandry and wool production.
Culture and religion of Kalmykia
Kalmyks have a very interesting and distinctive culture associated with their Asian roots. Religion is also unusual for Russia; the Republic of Kalmykia is one of three regions where Buddhism is preached. Moreover, what is interesting is that the pagan beliefs of the Kalmyks are closely intertwined with Buddhism, not contradicting the teachings of Buddha, but, on the contrary, complementing it.
The Kalmyks also have their own folklore and epic - “Dzhangar”, where the poems tell about the land of the immortals and its inhabitants, powerful heroes. Dzhangarchi (as those who performed folk songs were called) have always enjoyed enormous popularity among the people. But even now Kalmyks do not forget their culture: in Elista there are many monuments dedicated to the heroes of “Dzhangar”: the Golden Horseman, the monument to Dzhangar, Khongor (heroes of the epic) and other sculptural images.