Map route 30 Caucasus hike. The legendary route “thirty” or through the mountains to the sea
10500
in a group 7-8
people
12500
in a group 4-6
people
12500
in a group 7-8
people
14500
in a group 4-6
people
15500
in a group 7-8
people
17500
in a group 4-6
people
Lagonaki is a unique mountainous region of the North-West Caucasus. The name “Lagonaki” denotes a highland that unites into one orographic unit a number of mountain ranges and flat-topped ridges in the area between the Belaya and Pshekha rivers: the Nagoy-Chuk ridge, the Lagonaki ridge, the Montenegro, Messo, Murzikao and Abadzesh massifs, the Azish-Tau ridge, the Stone Sea ridge and Fisht-Oshtenovsky mountain range. Along the periphery, the highland is clearly outlined by steep, sometimes steep slopes. The highlands are composed of a thick layer of Upper Jurassic limestone, in which karst relief forms are widely developed: caves, sinkholes and wells, karst valleys.
In the scientific literature, as well as in local history publications, one can find different definitions of Lagonaki, its area and borders. Sometimes only ridges with mountain-meadow vegetation located north of the Pshekha-Su and Oshten peaks are combined under this name. There is even a statement that the Lagonaki plateau is a basin between the Murzikao massif and the Stone Sea ridge.
A number of tourist routes are laid through the Lagonaki highlands, the most famous of which is, perhaps, the Thirtieth route or “thirty”.
Features of the route
The Lagonaki Highlands can be visited from the end of May, but best time for the Thirtieth Route - the second half of June, July, August and September, when the alpine meadows are free of snow, the subalpine tall grass does not interfere with walking, overnight stays at altitude are not so cold and you can even swim in mountain lakes. At the end of September, the first snowfalls are already possible in these places, which briefly decorate the shores of the lakes and trees in the valley, only to melt later. The beginning of October is the time of golden autumn in these places, but at the same time in the highlands you can find yourself at the beginning of real winter.
Hiking along Route Thirty can take four days or more. But it is better to plan 4-5 days for this trip: during this time you can visit all the most interesting sights of Lagonaki and the surrounding area.
“Route Thirty” is not technically difficult and is accessible to almost any traveler.
For travel Need the following camping equipment:
- backpack (volume not less than 60 l)
- rug
- sleeping bag (preferably with a comfort temperature no higher than +5°)
- tent
- trekking poles
- flashlight
- set of utensils (mug, spoon, bowl, knife).
At the end of September and beginning of October, frosts are possible at night, so you will need warm clothes.
When packing your backpack, don't forget leave some space in it for food (which the guide will buy and distribute to you)!
additional information
Deadlines
June-October
Complexity
Suitable for beginners, but minimal physical fitness required
Prices
Trekking for 3 days, cost per person:
10500
in a group 7-8
people
12500
in a group 4-6
people
Hiking for 4 days, cost per person:
12500
in a group 7-8
people
14500
in a group 4-6
people
Hiking for 5 days, cost per person:
15500
in a group 7-8
people
17500
in a group 4-6
people
(For a group of less than 4 people, the price is negotiable)
Included in the price
- special security pass natural area(reserve, sanctuary, national park)
- food on the route
- guide services
- first aid kit
- gas equipment
- photo report from the trip
Not included in price
- equipment rental
- medical insurance
- transfer from the airport/station to the beginning of the route (to the beginning of transfer by off-road transport)
Equipment rental
- the cost of renting a basic set of equipment (tent, mat, sleeping bag, dishes, flashlight, trekking poles) is 1200 rubles. per day per person.
- The cost of renting additional equipment (backpack, gaiters, etc.) can be found in the section.
additional information
- Participants carry tents, personal equipment (sleeping bag, mat, flashlight, dishes) and food themselves in backpacks. Setting up the camp and preparing food is carried out in turn by all participants in the hike.
- Depending on weather conditions and the physical condition of the group, the guide may make changes to the route.
- The optimal group size is from 4 to 10 people.
The famous "Thirty" - the legendary route 30 through the mountains to the sea
Overnight stays at camp sites and in stationaryshelters, movement Withlight backpack, cook cooks
The route was restored by the company SV-Astur in 2001, certified instructors work with the group. Joining a group fromone person
Route 30 passes through the famous Fisht. Fisht is one of the most grandiose and significant monuments nature of Russia, closest to Moscow high mountains. Tourists travel lightly through all landscape and climatic zones countries from the foothills to the subtropics, overnight stays in shelters.
Arrivals in 2020
year The restored Thirty is 19 years old
June:08.06 – 14.06; 15.06 – 21.06; 22.06 - 28.06
; 29.06 - 05.07
July:
06.07 – 12.07; 13.07 – 19.07; 20.07 – 26.07; 27.07 - 02.08
August:03.08 – 09.08; 10.08 – 16.08; 17.08 - 23.08; 24.08 - 30.08
; 31.08 - 06.09
September: 07.09 - 13.09
Valid on arrival days transfer from Krasnodar railway station at 06.30, from the airport at 07.00, 500 rubles per person
1 day. Check-in or to a hotel with similar conditions during the day, accommodation in rooms with amenities on site, meeting with the instructor. Walk to the Through Cave.Lunch at the camp site. Eexcursion to an unequipped part of the Belaya River canyon. The canyon displays amazing, unique, talented works of stone art created by nature. Those who wish can visit the entertainment center Khadzhokhskaya Gorge (not included in the price). See the site pages - Canyon, Khadzhokh Mountain Resort After dinner, an evening of dating, gatherings around the fire.
Day 2. Training hike to the Rufabgo gorge (the main natural monument of this area). On the route you will see five picturesque waterfalls, see the website page - Rufabgo Falls, examine the grotto - the site of a primitive man and the surrounding rocks covered with lush vegetation. Lunch in the gorge near a tourist fire. Return to the camp site via observation decks. In the evening, songs with a guitar on the fire pit.
4 day. Bus transfer Khadzhokh - Lago-Naki plateau. Hiking to the Fisht shelter. On this day you will pass the Stone Sea ridge, four easy passes, and visit the subalpine and alpine zones. Lunch in the alpine near the karst lake. In the first half of summer, part of the route passes through snowfields. This is the most interesting and eventful day of the route. In the evening, flag raising and gatherings around the fire.
Day 5Shelter "Fisht" - radial access to the Small Glacier of Mount Fisht. On this day you will visit the classic nival zone (the zone of bare rocks, eternal ice and snow). At your feet will be mountain gorges. See the site page: Mountains of Russia, Mountain Legends, Fisht. Lunch at the shelter. For those who want to climb the huge boulder Fishtenok. Bonfire in the evening.
Day 6Shelter "Fisht" - lane. Belorechensky - shelter "Babuk-aul". On this day, you will find two easy passes (where there is a telephone connection) and a long, “Merry” descent into the subtropical zone through beech forests of the Colchis type.In the evening, presentation of the state award -iconand IDRussian tourist, see Photos from the route.
Day 7 Shelter"Babuk-aul" - the village of Solokh-aul - Dagomys. We will spend this day in the humid subtropics, walk through a boxwood grove, see lush and lush vegetation, several waterfalls, and many rare and beautiful rock forms. Lunch at the Bzych River.
bus transfer to the village. Dagomys, after 17.00 arrival in Dagomys. In Dagomys, receiving personal belongings handed over in Khadzhokh. Those interested can independently book a hotel on the coast
The cost of the tour is 17,900 rubles.
Children over 10 years old have a 10% discount.Children over 14 years old and students have a 5% discount.We recommend taking children from 12 years old, sports children from 10 years old. Children are not allowed on the first run.
The cost of the program includes:accommodation at a camp site and tourist shelters,3 meals a day, cook services at the camp site and shelters,instructor services,internal shuttle transport,transportation of things (resort) from Khadzhokh to Dagomys,delivery of almost all food and gas to shelters,rental of group equipment, satellite communication in case of emergency,entrance fees (except entertainment center Khadzhokh Gorge), group first aid kit,fee for staying in the reserve.
The program price does not include: travel, sleeping bag rental - 400 rubles per trip,backpack - 700 rubles, rug 100 rubles.
Required personal equipment:backpack (60 - 70 liters),personal sleeping bag and mat,rain cover,hiking shoes - sneakers or hiking boots,replacement shoes,shower slippers,warm tracksuit and sweater,nylon wind suit,long-sleeve shirt,wide brim hat, flashlight, bottle for water, personal utensils, seat
Book this tour
Payment for the tour is possible at the company’s representative office in Khadzhokh, booking in Moscow by phone, email: through the application form. Please provide the following information to the Moscow office: full name, date of birth with day and month, your city, mobile. telephone. After purchasing a train or plane ticket, send a copy by email.
Photos from the route different years and months
All-Union Thirty or route No. 30. Through the mountains to the Black Sea, was one of the most popular and widespread tourist routes in Soviet Union. Perhaps, main feature of this route is that it starts in the foothills of Adygea, passes through the highlands of Lago-Naki and ends at Black Sea coast Krasnodar region.
Nowadays, with the development of infrastructure and the construction of roads to the Lago-Naki highlands and the village of Solokh-Aul, and more recently to the Babuk-Aul shelter, the walking part of the route on this route has been significantly reduced and this is, perhaps, only a plus rather than a minus, since the traveler does not need to overcome long and grueling kilometers of travel through the forest zone both on the approaches to the Lago-Naki highlands and at the exit to the Black Sea coast.
Almost the entire walking part of the route will pass through the territory Caucasian Nature Reserve and therefore it is necessary to purchase a pass at the border of the reserve. The route itself is not technically difficult and can be completed even by a beginner who has never been to the mountains, but who has at least a little physical training.
- Description
- Information
- Photo/Video
- Reviews
DESCRIPTION BY DAY
Day 1.
Gathering of hike participants at the bus station in the city of Maykop no later than 8.00. This will be followed by a transfer to the Yavorovaya clearing, which is 100 km from Maykop. Upon arrival, we check our backpacks, get food, and hit the road. Today we have to walk 10 km.
In the first part of the journey we will overcome a rather long but gentle climb to the Guzeriplsky pass (1965), from which a stunning view opens.
Climbing to the Guzeriplsky pass In the background, the Stone Sea ridge rises majestically, on the right are the impregnable walls of Mount Oshten, and a little to the left opens the most bewitching view of the main Caucasian ridge and highest point Fisht-Oshtenovsky mountain range Mount Fisht. From the pass we will begin a short descent and further along the south-eastern walls of Oshten we will proceed to the Armenian Pass (1865m), from which no less beautiful view on the massif of Mount Fisht and the nearby ridges.
View of the main Caucasus ridge Well, and most importantly, from here there is a view of the Fisht shelter, which is located in a picturesque clearing at the foot of the mountain. From the Armenian Pass to the shelter it takes just over 30 minutes. Upon arrival at the shelter, we choose comfortable spot under the tent and set up camp. The program for today is completed.
Day 2.
On this day, it will be possible to sleep well afterwards, slowly getting ready for the journey to the place of our next overnight stay, namely to the shepherd's booths not far from the Circassian Pass. Leaving the shelter we will gradually begin to gain altitude, because from here the trail goes to the Belorechensky pass (1782m).
Wooded valley of the Belaya River Most of the way to the pass we will walk in the forest zone, but on the approaches to the top the dense forest will smoothly give way to a small crooked forest, and then disappear altogether. Finally, having climbed the pass, our gaze will open beautiful panorama to the valley of the Belaya River, the slopes of Mount Oshten, the Armenian Range and of course the majestic walls of Mount Fisht.
View from Belorechensky Pass Further our path lies along the south-eastern walls of Fisht towards the Cherkessky pass (1836m). Walking along the trail on this section of the route you can see with your own eyes the endless forest expanses of the Shahe River basin. Upon arrival, we set up camp and relax.
Day 3.
Wake up early, have breakfast, pack up camp and hit the road. Today we need to get to the Babuk-Aul shelter, which is about 13 km. Coming out of the shepherd's booths, we will almost immediately find ourselves on the Cherkessky pass, where last time on our hike we will be able to enjoy the view of Mount Fisht, and Then we will have a 4 km trek to the so-called Stadnik clearing, where we will have a stop and a lunch snack.
The Belaya River in the vicinity of the Fisht shelter Next we have to walk 4 km of a rather steep descent. In tourist circles this descent is called Vesely, I think many, after overcoming it, will guess why this is so. At the end of the descent, we will go out onto a dirt road along which we will walk a few more km to the Babuk-Aul shelter. The program for today is completed.
Day 4.
On the final day of the hike, we have an 18 km trek from the Babuk-Aul shelter to the village of Solokh-Aul. The entire trek today will take place along a dirt road along the bank of the Shahe River. If the participants of the trip wish, it will be possible to organize a transfer by off-road transport for an additional fee.
For detailed information about the hike, necessary equipment and payment methods, read the tab
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION ABOUT THE EVENT
Route thread:
glade Yavorovaya - lane. Guzeriplsky - lane. Armenian - shelter Fisht - lane. Belorechensky - lane Circassian - Babuk-Aul shelter - Solokh-Aul village
Hike information:
This hike is well suited for children over 8 years old and their parents, as well as for beginners who are just starting to join the hiking life, but have at least a little physical training. Depending on the weather conditions and the condition of the group members, the guide/guide may make adjustments to the route.
This is a full-fledged mountain hike, we carry all the equipment (personal and public) and food in backpacks. As a rule, the total weight of this stuff for girls is from 2-5 kg, for guys from 4-7 kg, depending on the number of hiking days. If you don't have your own equipment, you can rent it from us. Rental prices can be found in the section
Instructions - Rental.
- WHAT YOU NEED TO BRING WITH YOU:
- Backpack - for girls 50-65l, for boys 65-80l
- Sleeping bag (comfort temperature 0 + 6 degrees)
- Foam mat (tourist)
- Tent
- Seat (hob/ass)
- Trekking poles - optional
- Sunglasses
- Headlight
- Water container(plastic bottle)
- Sunscreen cream SPF 30-50
- KLMN (mug, spoon, bowl, knife)
- Matches, lighter
- Cape for backpack (membrane)
- Polyethylene bag 60-100l
- Personal care products
- Personal first aid kit
Document (passport)
- CLOTH:
- Two pairs of shoes (one trekking - on a hard platform, the other light for parking - you can wear sneakers)
- Two pairs of pants (preferably synthetic)
- Thermal underwear (if available)
- Minimum three pairs of socks
- Two synthetic T-shirts (one long sleeve, the other short)
- membrane jacket (wind/waterproof)
- Hat, Panama (from the sun)
- Sleepwear (can be cotton)
- Rain cape (polyethylene)
- Gaiters/flashlights (if available)
- Fleece gloves
P.S. Before putting it in a backpack, all clothes must be placed in sealed bags, especially paying attention to things for sleeping.
Payment and Prepayment
Payment is made in two stages:
1. Prepayment of 30% of the cost of the event. Necessarily.
2.You pay the remaining amount no later than a week before the start of the event.
Prepayment details are available upon request.
IMPORTANT!
Details for prepayment are sent only from the tour organizer’s page in VK -
When planning a big walking trip this year, we suddenly turned to the classics of Soviet tourism (wherever the Internet takes a person!) and chose... Adygea. Famous route No. 30: via Caucasus Mountains to the Black Sea. Why not? What do we even know about Adygea? Offhand I remember something about goats and cheese, and (if you’re lucky) about Maikop. But if you dig deeper... The Lago-Naki plateau, the Oshten, Fisht and Pshekha-Su mountains sound much more tempting! I have already published mine, and then a detailed story and photo report.
What is remarkable about the “thirty”:
- A popular, well-trodden route from Soviet times;
- The path lies through the Caucasian Biosphere Reserve with all sorts of relics;
- Ends with the sea (YES!!!);
- A film was made about her (“Route” with A. Abdulov, 2008; haven’t seen it yet);
- It has its own dramatic history: in 1975, a tragedy occurred here on the Armyanka River, which was followed by the entire Union - due to human carelessness and a terrible combination of circumstances, a large group of tourists died (a very instructive story about behavior in a group and human psychology in extreme circumstances) ;
- In fact (we went to test this hypothesis) - with good weather conditions this route is “traversed by a group of wounded children in sneakers.” And we, the moose on the tracks, have to go through this one at a time.
Route information
Route thread: Lago-Naki checkpoint (Maikop district, Adygea) - Abadzeshsky pass - Armenian shelter - Guzeriplsky pass - Fisht shelter - Belorechensky pass - Cherkessky pass - Bobuk-Aul cordon - Bobuk-Aul shelter - Solokh-Aul (Krasnodar region ).
Most of the route passes along the Lago-Naki plateau, at an altitude of 2000 m above sea level, through the passes of the Fisht-Oshtenovsky massif (the three most high peaks districts – Fisht, Oshten and Pshekha-su).
Travel time in “light” mode: 5 walking days / Length: 80 km / Dates: August 5 - 10, 2012
Exit to the route: air flight St. Petersburg - Krasnodar, taxi from Krasnodar airport to Lago-Naki checkpoint (approx. 200 km) / Exit from the route: bus Solokh-Aul - Dagomys, minibuses Dagomys - Sochi - Adler, plane a/ p Adler - St. Petersburg.
Day 1: Krasnodar - Lago-Naki checkpoint - Abadzeshsky pass - camp on the river. Armenian
On the night of August 3-4, 2012, the already well-established tourist team (or rather, its core of 4 people) left Pulkovo for Krasnodar.
At the airport we were met by a taxi driver of the most ordinary Krasnodar taxi. We were unable to find other ways to get on the route; however, the price tag for transporting four tourists with bulky backpacks to the neighboring Maykop region turned out, in our opinion, not too brutal: less than 4,000 rubles. (you just need to order a taxi in advance; at the airport the prices will be different).
The road to the Lago-Naki checkpoint takes approximately 4 hours. At about 16:00 we reach 1750 m above sea level and hit the barrier. At the same time, it begins to rain.
The checkpoint is a hut with a canopy. We hide under a canopy, fill out documents, pay for passes to the reserve. Our entire route will run through the Caucasian Biosphere Reserve, with all the ensuing restrictions. In particular, bonfires, felling of forests, fur trapping and other gatherings of wild plants are prohibited.
“Can we wait with you so as not to go out in the rain? “We’ll have to wait a long time... the cyclone has arrived, for ten days...”- Damn it. Who here dreamed of a sunny walk in the mountains? However, the Hydrometeorological Center warned:
After waiting for the moment when the rain became quieter, we set out. And then someone upstairs turns on the drain. The downpour comes with such force that we walk, overcoming the resistance of a wall of water and wind. The trousers immediately clung to the body, coldly and disgustingly. The boots are full of water that has poured through the top. You can’t raise your eyes to the road - the lashing rain washes your face in torrents. You look strictly at your feet from under your clumped eyelashes. The downpour is replaced by bombardment with medium-caliber hail. The noise accompaniment - thunderclaps in the mountains - inspires respect. Only after making sure that there is not a dry thread left, the elements calm down in the drizzling rain.
We reach the Lago-Naki plateau. The path is in places as wide as a dirt road, and in places it winds and branches in thick grass. When the sun comes out, it’s hot in the jackets; when it disappears, it’s cold. Changing clothes on the go:
The view is 360 degrees, the view is quite monotonous. But, since I am not Prishvin, let the photos tell about this area better:
We're glad to see the sun come out!
We are approaching the Abadzesh Pass. The climb here is not sharp at all; the pass itself is framed by low hills with trail markers.
From here you can see the peak of Oshten for the first time.
Then we go along the level and mostly downhill. But all the same: walking along the path, muddy from the rain and disturbed by horses, is a bit difficult if you’re not used to it. Slippery. Dirty and wet to the waist. On the horizon to the left are mighty three-thousanders.
By sunset we go out into the valley of the Armenian River (aka Guzeripl). There is already a fairly large tourist camp here with the same type of tents. Apparently, this camp has been here all season, inside and out. The rangers come up and ask to see documents.
The Armenian River is a tiny stream. Even clean water You can’t scoop it up with a pot everywhere - only on the rifts. And in this thin icy stream (much like a water cutoff in the city!), we wash our bodies and wash ourselves off. The tents were set up on a hillock, away from the others. The night promised to be clear and moonlit.
In the middle of the night we wake up to the heavens literally opening up. Lightning flashes - it feels like it - right behind the awning of the tent. “What the hell am I doing here?..” With each flash, the tent is festively illuminated (thanks for not flashing). “Who came up with all this anyway?”(a significant question that comes up sooner or later on every trip we take). “Great, we’re also on a bald hill!” Rolls of thunder roll across the valley from edge to edge and shake the tent. “It will burn to hell...” In general, every office worker NEEDS such existential revelations. To better understand the value of life in general and a dry bed under a roof in particular. Warm office chair, coffee and cookies, internet - oh, where are you? Is everyone still in the same Universe as me? And no littered ki-pi-ais, no working fakaps can even come close to the adrenaline rush of the immediate threat of being buried in a landslide or hit by lightning here and now. A defenseless and weak little man - in the cocoon of a sleeping bag under a thin tent canvas - on the scale of mountains and the elements! For them, you and that crushed ant over there are just bullshit. And this awareness is somehow especially invigorating.
Day 2. Radial boat to Oshten. Go to the Fisht shelter.
As the subtitle suggests, everyone survived. And to celebrate, immediately after breakfast we went to the morning radial Mount Oshten. We started lightly at 10:00 am, telling Masha, who had a cold and remained in the camp, to wait for us at 14:00.
On the approaches to Oshten, it seems that taking this colossus at once - well, nooooo, without me! However, there are groups that are already descending from the top at that hour. And skipping and with children. So the eyes are afraid, but the legs move.
At first the path lies through a valley. Then the trail goes up to one of the spurs of Oshten.
At the gentle peak we take a break to catch our breath.
Landmarks - tourists. Just before reaching the Oshten ridge, a serious climb up a scree rocky slope awaits us. But it’s generally safe to go: there is a path. This steep climb takes about half an hour with breaks.
After it we no longer walk along the ridge, but skip and skip.
From the ridge you can see the valley near Mount Fisht. We'll be there this evening. I wish I could go straight down there now! ( “Hello, Masha? pack up your camp and head to the Fisht shelter, we’ll meet you right there!” =)
The summit is a fairly flat and vast area. There are suddenly a lot of people here. Someone is preparing tea on a gas burner. Most are shouting excitedly into the phone - below mobile communications Hardly ever. Camera shutters crackle here and there.
But the weather begins to deteriorate, and we still have to return and stomp to Fisht. Let's go back. The descent is much more fun than the ascent.
Road from Oshten
At the beginning of two o'clock we are in the camp. We prepare lunch and pack our things to set out immediately after lunch in the direction of the Fisht shelter. There are 10 kilometers to the shelter and three notable points: Instructor's Gap, Guzeriplsky and Armenian passes. But after lunch it starts to rain. We postpone the start, hoping to wait it out. Since the tents have already been assembled, we dump our backpacks in a pile and, together with a pot of tea, cover ourselves with the awning. Drinking tea. We wait. Dozing.
Some time passes, and through my drowsiness I notice with displeasure that I am sitting on something wet. Trying to move doesn't change anything. I'm in a puddle. At the same moment, everyone else finds themselves in the same puddle. Alarm! Our hillock has become muddy and our backpacks are lying in a real swamp! We pick ourselves up and, together with the awning and property, jump in the rain to a small canopy near the Armenian woman.
The canopy is a roof on poles, without a floor or walls. The ground here is just as wet, but at least it’s not pouring from above. The place under the canopy, as the most chocolate place for many kilometers around, is naturally already occupied: a group from Moscow has settled here. Meanwhile, the Armenian woman turned into a stormy muddy stream. Cold.
Half an hour later, two figures appear on the horizon and quickly approach, pulling our canopy towards them like a magnet. By their characteristic antlers, we recognize them as real moose, moving 50 km a day. And now we are already 11 refugees on five relatively dry square meters.
But daylight hours are limited, so we decide to go out in the rain. The rain, fortunately, is gradually subsiding.
After 15 minutes we reach the Instructor's Gap.
Instructor's slit
The trail is obvious, well marked, and such a walk is a real pleasure. We're going at a good pace.
We pass the Guzeriplsky pass marked by the obelisk and move further to the Armenian pass. There must be a river flowing somewhere here funny name Muddy Teplyak, but we cannot identify it, since even streams are called rivers here, and in the rain streams appear spontaneously and everywhere.
Finally we reached the Armenian Pass. From here you can already see the valley of the Fisht shelter. The houses below look like toys against the backdrop of the giant peak of Fisht. Meanwhile, daylight is melting and disappearing right before our eyes. Here, above, there is much more of it than below, in the valley...
From the pass the trail dives into a beech forest. And then suddenly the light finally turns off. Pitch darkness. The flashlights are packed far into the backpack. Under your feet you can intuitively sense a rocky slope with wet tree roots and chomping mud. Gods! Open a teleport to the valley, please! Now what I most want to do is lie with my legs stretched out in a dry and warm sleeping bag and spit on the ceiling of the tent that has already been set up (and let me be clean already!) But everything is natural: we are in a fucking beech forest, and there’s nothing in sight here ! Every now and then losing the path, almost by touch, after another forty minutes we reach the Belaya River. The path leads us straight to the bridge, and on the other side, from the wandering lights in the bushes, we can discern a large camp.
The administrator of the base shows healthy indifference to our group: we were not asked to show documents or pay for accommodation. There are toilets in this direction, trash cans in that direction, and in this stream - drinking water. Here's everything we need to know about the shelter.
Important note: a drinking stream named after the deceased climber flows between the rock massif and the base. The camp administration does not recommend drinking water from the Belaya River (after the incident of mass poisoning several years ago). Previously, everyone chaotically washed themselves, washed clothes and drank from the same reservoir.
With the last effort of will we set up camp, wash in the invigoratingly icy Belaya, do laundry and cook dinner. Suddenly, from the Fisht-Oshten pass, two lights appear on the other side of the river. These are our familiar moose today. We got there, even though we started even later than us, and, apparently, they went around Oshten from the other side, through the Fisht-Oshten pass. Therefore, there is a path there too.
At night, lanterns loom on the ridge leading to the top of Fisht. This means that there, at a breathtaking height, without firewood and, possibly, without water, people nested and spent the night among the rocks. And that's cool.
Day 3. Fisht: summit and shelter
Radial on Fisht. You can climb Fisht only very early in the morning and in very good weather. They say: if there is even a cloud in the sky in the morning, there is no point in getting up. By the time you get there, the weather will deteriorate to the point of “impossible to go.” Sometimes they wait for several days for weather to climb Fisht. But we don’t have that luxury: today it’s either yes or no.
The climb to Fisht is of a more difficult category than to Oshten. And for him you have to get up at five or six in the morning. I am faint-hearted and refuse to go. Masha has a cold and also doesn’t go to Fisht. The delegation to the summit is reduced to two people - Anton and Yura. And Masha and I have a day off. With laundry, drinking cocoa and studying the base.
Here's what the guys from Fisht brought back that day:
Glacier on Fisht
Having set out at six in the morning, they returned somewhere around four in the afternoon.
Meanwhile, Masha and I explored the territory of the Fisht shelter far and wide. Everything here is permeated with the atmosphere of good old Soviet tourism and pioneer camp.
Children play volleyball. The elders sit around the fire pits with a guitar. Rushing through the camp: “The sea is wicked... like a cup of wine...” or “The time is coming! People are losing their heads! And this time is called spring!” The singer's voice is mesmerizing. If only we knew that this voice would haunt us for three more days.
The windows of the barracks houses are wide open and inside you can see simple bunk beds with a truly pioneering mess. Everything is very old, but good quality, lovingly made. Open gazebos with fire pits, a volleyball court with a net, a bathhouse, outdoor washbasins, bridges across a stream, wooden toilets with divisions for men and women... This is such a stronghold of “civilization” among the deserted mountains (although it’s a stretch to call the local mountains deserted). But there are people here, and they live here all season. A safe place where you can take shelter, wait out bad weather, ask for advice and help. Neither water nor highway not here, but as far as we understand, there is some kind of helicopter connection.
Fisht in the light of day. Clearing for tents
During the day, volunteers with garbage bags walk around the entire area and collect trash. Apparently, they come here for a long time, if not for the whole summer.
The day passes very slowly and calmly.
In the evening, everyone is attracted to the gazebos with bonfires. Groups gather and play “Crocodile,” which isn’t easy, but it’s tricky. Judging by the accepted system of gestures and concepts, crocodile gurus have gathered here. We also fit into this cheerful midnight delirium. “What is this, what are you showing, explain in human terms? Space? Frying pan? Acceleration? Eat? Eat? Barack Obama?…"
Day 4. Belorechensky and Cherkessky passes.
In the morning after breakfast we leave the shelter. The trail runs across a drinking stream, past rocks with memorial plaques to climbers, tourists and rescuers who died here, and rushes upward into the coniferous forest. We begin to climb.
The trail winds along the Fisht slope. At some point, we overtake a diverse group of 15-20 people, with teenagers and adults, led by yesterday’s guitarist and singer with a beautiful, powerful, deep voice. He gives the command to his men to let us through, and they part.
Belorechensky Pass
Just before the Belorechensky pass the climb was steep and we were out of breath. Or what about cows and horses grazing all around? They find it easy to jump up and down slopes...
Belorechensky Pass
From the Belorechensky pass to the Cherkessky pass we follow a path along the slope, almost without losing altitude. On the way we meet a shepherd's base, in the local language - a booth. Located near the town of Mavrikoshka, it is called: “Balagan at Mavrikoshka”.
Approaches to the Cherkessky pass
There is a big one in Circassian tourist group. That’s why we don’t linger here, but immediately dive down. No more passes are expected, and this is a joy! Ahead is only what in the descriptions of the route is called the “Merry Descent” (or “Sad Ascent” - depending on which direction you go). The trail actually goes down at a noticeable pleasant slope. Nice, wide forest path. There are solid beeches all around (just like in the St. Petersburg metro on Monday morning):
It is in this forest that we get up for lunch. Water is a bit tight here; you don’t come across very small streams very often. But with desire and patience, you can fill a pot of clean water. While we are having lunch, we are overtaken by a group with a loud instructor, with whom we left the Fisht shelter at the same time today.
Traditionally, in the afternoon, clouds roll over the mountains and distant rumbles of thunder begin. Maybe it won't reach us? Maybe we are already close enough to the sea? But no. The rain has long legs, and it reaches us. We stretch the awning across the path. After waiting, we continue our descent. The descent becomes really steep. It's amazing how such powerful trees grow here! The faces of the oncoming groups on their way up inspire us to heroic deeds. However, anticipating the imminent twilight, we are already looking for a place to spend the night.
The ideal place for camp - we overheard this the day before - is a clearing with ferns, or “Stadnik's Glade”. And indeed, we will soon reach it. But the best (and most level) place on it has already been occupied by a loud group. We stand a little lower, on a platform with a slight slope. There is a small stream flowing along the path, from which you can squeeze water for drinking and washing.
A characteristic feature of the clearing is an old withered tree:
It would be a shame to miss this and not use it for a cute vacation photo. Even Yura couldn’t resist:
In the evening (for the first time in the reserve!) we light a fire (well, there’s a fireplace, so it’s possible!). Naturally, all sushi is used for firewood. There is no need to talk - in the neighboring camp a loud leader works as a sound accompaniment for two camps: “Who put his mug in my way here? I’m not a proud guy, I’ll get over it, but I’m just curious...” After valuable instructions for setting up the camp have been distributed, everything has been done and everyone has gathered for dinner, the landing stories begin: “Remember, guys: jump to the forest, to the water and to the mountains - these are three different exercises!..” And finally he picks up the guitar. He definitely sings well.
We fall asleep under the lulling “Green Carriage”: “The little mice, bear cubs and boys are sleeping...”
Day 5. Babuk-aul - Solokh-aul
Lulled by the little bear mice, we fall soundly asleep until the morning. And we wake up to the same voice with a strikingly different intonation: “Assholes!!!” From further development It is clear to me that someone launched a wasp into the tent of the paratrooper leader.
The descent ends in the settlement of Babuk-aul. Widowers were called “babuki” in Adygea. Widows are solokhs. Hence the name of the next one settlement, where we are heading: widow's village, Solokh-aul.
On the way there is a bridge like this (cross one at a time!)
Beyond the bridge we continue our journey along the Shakhe River. The path now looks more like a road. After some time we go to the Babuk-Aul tourist shelter. Stop for lunch.
At the Babuk-Aul shelter we meet for the last time the friendly group of the loud paratrooper Anton Viktorovich (we already know the name of the courageous leader of children and women). They stay overnight on the territory of the shelter, and that’s quite alright a good option. The administration of the base - a lady with a dog - is also trying to convince us of this, claiming that there is still 17 km to Solokh-Aul, and there is no way to camp before it. But we are adamant: today we need to get as close as possible to Solokh-Aul and we move on.
Behind the shelter we enter a picturesque boxwood forest:
Slowly the road is forming into a decent dirt road along the Shakhe River. On one side there is a slope covered with shaggy greenery, on the other there is a cliff, with a river below. Sometimes you come across streams, large and small. For example, you can take a shower under this!
Right next to this waterfall we are overtaken by the traditional afternoon bad weather. Suddenly it becomes dark and the wind begins to hum alarmingly in the treetops. While we were taking out our raincoats and sheathing our backpacks, a huge piece of wood, about five meters long, flew straight to our feet from above. This way he can kill you. Come on - let's go! And we run with redoubled enthusiasm, but it’s too late: the rain is pouring down. After a couple of minutes, in general, it doesn’t matter how long we still have to walk to the nearest roof: we are wet to our underwear. The boots are full of water again. We continue to stomp under the refreshing rain shower. The tall, dry forest crackles ominously all around.
However, after some more time we come to a sudden checkpoint: a hut with a canopy. No one comes out to our knocking and voices and we decide to wait under the canopy. An unfinished bottle of vodka on the table clearly indicates that the trace of a person here has not yet gone cold... We are wondering whether we should spend the night in this booth under the roof. Suddenly, out of nowhere - a car! And now we are already compacted into the UAZ. It’s not sporty, but we comfortably cover the remaining 7 kilometers to the checkpoint when leaving the reserve. Over abysses and across rivers, the road resembles a trophy. Along the way, the driver tells us that the road to Babuk-aul - the one we walked along today - was blocked in one place, and now it’s impossible to pass. Well, this happens here. It's good that we got through.
At the checkpoint we are asked to present documents and given precise instructions on where we can stop for the night. In principle, the place on a flat but gloomy clearing near the rocky river bed suits us. One bad thing: they didn’t take care of the backpacks; the contents got wet. Let me tell you, sleeping in a wet sleeping bag is not a pleasant experience. We somehow dry ourselves out, as far as the post-rain evening air allows, and go to bed - our last night on the route.
Day 6. Solokh-Aul - Morko!
In the morning we only have a short march to Solokh-Aul, which takes us about 2 hours along a good, compacted road, in places reminiscent of a tunnel to a wonderland.
In Solokh-aul I say goodbye to my LOWA combat tracks, which served me faithfully in summer and winter, in Altai, on Baikal, in the Khibiny Mountains and many other places. The Caucasus finished them off, but they lived a decent life!
At the entrance to Solokh-aul, we, in our last dry and clean T-shirts, worn on the occasion of the end of the route and access to the sea, are doused with rain for the last time. We run straight to the bus stop. Solokh-aul is considered the birthplace of the Krasnodar variety of tea, there is even something like a museum with a tasting room, but we reject the option of a cultural program. Only to the sea! We are waiting for the bus to Dagomys.
This dog met us at the entrance to Solokh-aul and accompanied us to the stop, for which he was rewarded with sausage and bread.
By the evening of the same day it was waiting for us. Morko!!! Thunder rumbled and lightning flashed in the distant mountains. And we enjoyed the warm (and dry!) Adler evening. And only out of the corner of my mind I thought about tourists getting wet in the mountains. Well, in any case, they still have the sea ahead of them! And we honestly deserve our sea happiness)
Additional information about the route traveled
Route descriptions from other groups:
- http://mountaintrips.ru/routest/sea/30-ka/ - route description
- http://ppeterr.narod.ru/fisht_1.html - similar route
- http://golodranec.ru/index.php?article=77 - detailed report from a group from Moscow
From Khadzhokh to Solokh.
Instruction:
The history of this unique route began back in the 30s of the last century. Then
the Soviet government, puzzled by the problem of improving the nation's health, was looking for
low-budget options for solving it. Fish oil and tourist routes become
unique priority national projects of that time, actively
were promoted and, to be fair, had a quite convincing effect.
Former 30th All-Union route- Now
the only high mountain route in Russia
.
He still continues to act, attracting with his incredible magical
the beauty of thousands of tourists. It is a route where tourists pass everything
landscape zones of the country. Starting from the Kuban black earth steppes,
broad-leaved and coniferous forests, rising to subalpine and alpine meadows,
eternal snows and harsh glaciers. Descending to the south side of the Main Ridge,
they pass through the zone of Colchis-type forests and end up in the subtropics with palm trees,
bamboo and magnolias.
Participation in such a route is comparable to a full course of a sanatorium-resort
treatment. But building sanatoriums is expensive, and in a matter of years the country created
a whole network of tourist routes, shelters were built, schools of instructors emerged.
"Thirty" was very popular destination, and during the season we passed along the route
about one hundred thousand people.
Linear route
Route length: 60 km.
Height min: 200 m, max: 2,087 m.
Pos. Hadjokh
- Lago-Naki plateau
— shelter "Fisht"
— lane Belorechensky
- shelter "Babuk-aul"
— village Solokhaul
The route passes through the territory of the Fisht-Oshten massif and further, in the southern
macroslope of the Caucasus Range, stretches along the drainage basin of the Shakhe River to
village of Solokh-Aul.
In terms of walking, the route does not present any particular difficulties, although there are a number of
steep ascents and descents. Instruction on the rules of being on site is required.
the territory of the reserve and the technique of passing through potentially dangerous areas
trails (steep climbs, steep descents, windy areas, avalanche
trays, snow fields, etc.).
Recreational amenities mean the presence or absence of trails,
fire pits, houses, booths and other small architectural forms, etc. Usually
The level of improvement is assessed on a 4-point scale:
1 point- landscaping has not been carried out at all.
2 points- existing trails and roads, parking areas and stops are not equipped
at all.
3 points- clearings have been cleared, the roadbed has been leveled, the trails are in good condition
condition, there are individual pieces of “forest furniture”.
4 points- the site is fully prepared to receive tourists (paths have been cleared, there is
drinking water, fuel, horse feed, houses with bunks and stove, prepared
fire pits, rain shelters, etc.)
According to this scale, the improvement of the route as a whole corresponds to 3.5 points
.
The best vacation is an unplanned vacation
The weather in these places is often changeable. In the summer it often happens that it’s scorching until lunchtime
the sun, and then a wall of rain, and by evening it’s clear again. And it might happen again
every day in a row for a week. Or vice versa - the drought is unbearable. Summer
on a clear day in the mountains along the route it can reach +25-30 degrees, and
at night the temperature drops to 0.. +5.
Get to the village Kamennomostsky (Khadzhokh) from the nearest city of Maykop (40 km.)
maybe two in simple ways: by train and by commuter bus giving for
ticket is about 40-50 rubles. Buses run on average every 2 hours,
electric trains: one in the morning (arrival in the village at 9 o’clock), the other in the evening (at 7
evenings). The trip lasts approximately 1.5 hours. Both types of public transport
arrive in the center of Hadjokh, where market Square and the market too
several minimarkets. Here you can buy everything you need for your trip.
low category of complexity.
Central square in Hadjokh
railway station
If your plans include exploring the surrounding area, then places to stay overnight are not difficult to find
in the private sector. To do this, just ask the relevant taxi drivers on the square
or read the advertisements on the walls and pillars here. Also on site
village there are several more or less large tourist centers, from which you can
distinguish the Gornaya t/b network by size and service. Pre-study
interesting objects for local excursions can be found on the Wikimapia website and in the HAJOH-CITY group on the Vkontakte website.
Belaya River
White - view from the observation deck
Mountain with rock "Tank hatch"
Cave "Through"
Rufabgo waterfalls
You need to go on a hike at least a little after preparing your body for walks around the surrounding area.
paths. If an untrained person can easily climb uphill, then
the descents at the end of the route will turn into hard labor for him! Train the weak
places the muscles of the legs, shoulders and back can be squatting with a prepared backpack, so
checking the equipment itself. If it seems to you that any part of the backpack
or your shoes may rub, it is better to fix the problem immediately.
Clothing should be selected based on the time of the route. For a sunny summer day
the ideal option would be: a Panama hat, a light shirt with long sleeves, trousers made of
water-repellent material, and don't forget a raincoat or raincoat. Long sleeves will be
reliably protect exposed areas of the hands from the scorching mountain sun and from dangerous
plants hogweed,after touching which, after some time
a chemical burn to the skin appears. Strong sunburn you can get it literally
after a few tens of minutes of exposure to the sun on unprotected areas of the skin.
Everyone needs to have warm things with them - a sweater, warm socks, a hat +
spare socks, pants and sleeping bag. Also take care of the flashlight,
batteries and a first aid kit, which should contain a lot of plaster for calluses.
A primus stove can be very useful.
Hogweed
Low clouds over the plateau
Clear
More details about attractions near Hadzhokh and route maps can be found
get acquainted in the group HAJOKH-CITY - (open group). Here you can also set
Question for admins.
The high mountain tourist shelter "Fisht" is located at the source of the Belaya River between
mountains Fisht and Oshten. Consists of 2 one-and-a-half-story houses with sleeping places,
equipped fire pit with pots and kettles with boiling water, toilet.
The cost of spending the night in the house is about 50 rubles per person. Spreads out in front of houses
flat meadow with space for tents. The shelter sells alcohol and other products.
This is the ideal place to recuperate.
The next part of the route will be a little more difficult. Check if you fit
within the time frame for passing the checkpoint, otherwise you may be fined at the exit from the reserve.
Immediately after leaving the shelter you pass a memorial stone and a trail
will rise all the time with short breaks. The route goes around
eastern spurs of Mount Fisht. A few more kilometers and you are at one of the most beautiful
passes of the country. It is called the Belorechensky pass. It also happened
battles with the Nazi invaders. There is a monument and memorial stone with
potholes caused by shells. At this pass the weak begins to work
cellular communication (only one Megaphone for now), but you can talk. Then the signal disappears.
At the Belorechensky pass
The trail goes through a hilly meadow. Armenians usually graze horses and cows on it.
After a while you will see the housing of the shepherds who live here with their
families from time immemorial. They have a separate house for the night with a stove and
firewood. I would like to note that it is prohibited to burn fires anywhere in the reserve. Armenians
You can buy healthy fresh milk.
Have you ever had to walk down a steep trail that stretches for 5 kilometers?
The slope called "Merry Descent" will test your legs like this.
endurance, and if it has not yet dried out after the rains, then generally hold on... Other
since it seems that it will last forever, until you go out into the clearing “Cold
spring". After replenishing your water supplies and taking a breath at the table, you look at the map and
You note that you have only completed half of the descent. Until the end of the descent the trail runs along
beech-chestnut forest with centuries-old trees and grazing
semi-wild pigs.
On your way you will meet foresters' houses, apiaries and vegetable gardens, until you reach
You will come out to the Shakhe River with a small masonry bridge. Further after a kilometer of route
along this river you come to the Babuk-aul shelter.
After 1.5-2 km. from the shelter the road will be blocked by a barrier with a checkpoint
point - exit from the reserve. You didn't throw away the tickets, did you?
Further, the Shakhe River makes a smooth bend to the south. The dirt road runs
on the left side of the river, and on the left there are flagstone rocks with numerous
streams with crystal water. It’s always damp here and sometimes you can’t get around the puddles.Next
a major obstacle will be the Bzych River, which flows into Shah,
This village is located on the left bank of the Shakhe River, 33 km from the Black Bank
seas. After entering Solokh, to get to the bus stop you need
walk along the dirt road without turning anywhere and reach the place where in front of the steep
turn the corner and the asphalt begins.
Then follow the asphalt road along the stream to the main road and turn off
to the left. A little more and you will be met bus stop with a food stall.
Buses going to Dagomys do not run often.
At the stop in Solokha.
Have a nice holiday...