Lake bottom photographs. In the Volosovsky district in July

Route thread: Dontso – Volosovo – Izvara – Kalitino – Dontso – 80 km.


We liked the Volosovsky district even in winter, when we made our way through the freshly fallen snow through the forest to the village of Pyataya Gora to admire the picturesque ruins of the Trinity Church preserved there.
Then, already in the spring, we went to an unusual beautiful village Hotnezh and to the village of Torosovo, where the ruins of Baron Wrangel’s estate still stand.
Now it was decided to go there with bicycles. Since the weather that day pleased us with sunshine, we chose Lake Dontso as a starting point, about which we had read a lot of interesting things. The lake acquired its current shape as a result of limestone mining and has the lesser known name Kurlevsky quarry. The lake is unusually clean and turquoise, so it seems that you are not in the Leningrad Region, but on some tropical island.
Radon comes to the surface of the water here and the Oredezh River originates from here. The quarry is surrounded by densely overgrown vegetation, which those knowledgeable in this matter call alvars.
So, having landed on the shore of the lake and planning to have dinner on its shore upon our return, we set off. We didn’t have a pre-planned route, so we spontaneously decided to go to Volosovo and explore the regional center. We went along highway, it’s good that traffic in these parts is not very intense. Along the way, we admired the lush fields and meadows stretching on both sides of the road and here and there abandoned wooden and stone houses.
Having made a short trip to the previously known Fifth Mountain,
Having passed by the villages of Kholopovitsy and Kurkovitsy, we drove out onto the Gatchina highway. The traffic there is more intense, so the ride is less pleasant. But after 10 km. We have already been to Volosovo. The town is small, with a population of just over 12,000 people. He seemed pleasant and neat to me. Having driven along main street, bearing the name of Vingissar (who is not known), we noticed many shops, a recreation center and even a fountain. We decided to have a snack in Veles Park.

Having refreshed ourselves and feeling strong, we decided to continue our journey to the village of Izvara, where the Roerich museum-estate is located. It is 12 km from Volosovo. The road again runs along picturesque fields and has minimal traffic. Not far from Izvara, from the road you can see a cemetery and the ruins of a church towering above it, and at the very entrance the pipes of an abandoned lime factory stick out ugly. The estate itself was purchased by the Roerich family in 1872, and 26 years of the artist’s life are associated with it. Now it has been restored, and the old interior has been recreated inside. In several rooms there are reproductions of paintings and ancient jewelry and household items found during excavations are displayed. Stone outbuildings and a park have been preserved on the territory.

Having absorbed the peaceful atmosphere of Izvara, on the way back we turned to the factory I already mentioned - a rather gloomy place. It turned out that the negative energy here is not simple: during the German occupation there was a concentration camp on its territory, and the ovens were used to burn corpses... Since 1980. the plant is not functioning.
Further, having again passed through Volosovo, we decided to change the route a little and turned off the Gatchina highway following the sign for the village of Kalitino. I read that in this village there is also someone’s estate, but we were already pretty tired, so we only visited the grocery store.

After Kalitino, we drove along the asphalt road for some time, and then turned onto a country road, which led us to the village of Selo, the closest settlement to Lake Dontso.
Having returned safely, we decided to plunge into the cold waters of the quarry (we couldn’t miss such a chance) and began cooking.

Meanwhile, the sun began to set towards the horizon. We didn’t want to leave, but we knew that we would come back here again.

The Kurlevsky quarries were formed as a result of the extraction of drywall. And drywall is the basis of Portland cement, a material widely used in construction. And, it must be said that many mansions in St. Petersburg at that time grew up on Kurlevskaya drywall.

Sights of the Kurlevsky quarries

Source of the Oredezh River

It sounds a little banal, but in Lake Dontso the Oredezh River is born, carrying its waters to the Baltic Sea. Well, not directly, but through the Luga River and the Gulf of Finland, but that doesn’t matter. The main thing is that you can touch the origins.

Kurlevsky quarry (Lake Dontso)

Kurlevsky quarries are artificial lakes with crystal clear water. Their main feature is the unique color of the water - aquamarine, as well as the amazing transparency of the water. The largest quarry is also called Lake Dontso.

Ruined Church of the Holy Trinity on Fifth Mountain

The church was built in 1826. There is no roof on it and the building is quickly collapsing. More details about it are described in the route description.

So, a serious task was set - to manage to get to two beautiful places absolutely different places, using public transport, and for this we left by train at 9.52, going from the Baltic station to Gatchina, and from there we went by bus 11.06 to Glumice. We need to save time, and this is the most shortcut to Lake Dontso, which, although beautiful, is not so easy to get there. From Glumice to the lake it is only 5 kilometers on foot, which will take only an hour. There are three other paths (via Kikerino, Fifth Mountain and Lakes), which we also took, but they are all longer. Near Glumice (where we arrived at 12.15) we are greeted by a grain field with ears of grain.
An asphalt road leads to Donzo from here.
We don't really like walking on the highway, but such a road is a joy. The fact is that where the fields have not been developed, the most picturesque flower meadows have been preserved. In July they are at the peak of their beauty.


Steppe in the middle Leningrad region. This is what it is, Volosovsky district.

At Lake Dontso the meadows continue, and there are even more flowers on them. They even have a special name - alvars, and they are protected by the state. This is unique for the Leningrad region natural area. The fact is that on the Izhora Upland the soil consists of limestone, so it is arid, poor in water and nutrients. There are few trees here, but a lot of sun. Therefore, steppe landscapes were formed here, with plants that are not typical for our area.

First we go not to the lake, but to look at the source of the Oredezh River, which begins right from Lake Dontso. The water of Oredezh here is clear and clean, spring water.


It is easy to notice that the riverbed is straight and clearly artificial. As I read, Oredezh originally began a couple of hundred meters downstream of the modern riverbed. And then here in the lake they began to mine drywall - white clay, from which lime was extracted, a raw material for the manufacture of building materials. They tried to drain water from the lake and surrounding swamps through a specially dug canal to the source of the Oredezh. Thus, Oredezh became longer. But this did not help much - water from underground filled the lake again and again, and after some time the extraction of drywall had to be stopped.

Let's take a closer look at this point. There is an opinion that the lake is artificial, that there was nothing here before, and the water appeared after the quarry developers accidentally broke through the aquifers, reaching artesian springs. Some local historians from the “regional nauts” community write such things. However, this is a misconception. The name of the village “Ozera” and old maps speak about it. Here, for example, is one of the cards. Compiled by the Swedes in 1678. In place of Lake Dontso there are two lakes. This surprisingly coincides with what we have now - next to Donzo there is another quarry, and behind it another smaller one. Hence the conclusion that the lakes that were quarries were also lakes before; raw materials were extracted from already existing lakes, trying to drain them, or maybe directly from the water. And when they write that the lake is artificial, it is simply stupidity and ignorance of the facts.

Next we go to the lake itself, to the beach. There are many flowers everywhere. Beauty!


It is best to approach the lake from the side that is away from the road, there are almost no people here, it is quiet and beautiful. One of the approaches to the lake looks like this.

We go to where there is a large hill next to the lake, from which there are beautiful views, and the approach to the water underneath is wider, and there are a lot of flowers

View from the top of the hill. Landscape typical for the Volosovsky region. Lots of bright colors...

I would like to lie down here and lie there all day...

Everything is in flowers. But in June and August this is no longer the case. If you want to see these places at the peak of their beauty, come in July!

View from the top of the hill to the lake. The water in it is very clean and transparent. That's why its color is turquoise.


Our tourists enjoy swimming. But the water is much colder than in other lakes in the region. But it’s so clean and transparent, and the snow-white limestone bottom - how can you resist?)


And the author of these lines is bathing. All the pebbles and soil particles are visible at the bottom. Fabulously beautiful!

I don’t know how much the lake’s appearance was distorted during lime mining here, but I think the changes were only beneficial. Most likely, the silt and swampy sediments were removed, the lake became cleaner and more flowing, and therefore it came to us twice as beautiful as it was originally.

Then we went for 10 minutes to the beach near the road. We took the plunge here too, but in general, after the first place, it was uncomfortable here. And it’s not just the abundance of people and a couple of dozen cars on the grass by the lake, but also the fact that, as always, there were crowds of people stinking of kebabs on lighter fluid, trash scattered - in general, familiar manifestations of domestic bestiality. Therefore, after taking a dip once, we went to another, no less beautiful place.

We leave at 16.45, because in two hours there is a bus that we would like to catch, and the walk is 7.5 kilometers. Along the way, between the villages of Selo and Ozera, to the left of the road, a group of small mounds is visible. These are ancient burial places of tribes that lived here 800 years ago, most likely Finnish (Izhora or Vod).

We take a break along the way so that our leg muscles can rest. I learned this clearing well over the past years, when we walked here along the road from Dylitsy to Dontso, going through Lakes and Selo, and it is along this path that we now go to Dylitsy, to the bus. There are a lot of pine trees around, it’s dry and light, so it’s nice to relax.

We arrived in Dylitsy, a village on the outskirts of the large village of Elizavetino. This is the Gatchina region. We are waiting for the bus towards Gatchina, it will arrive at 18.52. Some of us will go home, and the most persistent ones - these are the majority - will go on a hike to the Gatchina “geysers”, another local attraction.

In order to get to them, we get off at the “Chernovsky crossing” stop. There is no crossing there, but only a path through railway, leading towards Chernovo. I haven’t taken this road to the “geysers” yet, because usually the way to them lies through the village of Korpikovo, but it’s not on our way, and besides, we can explore new road more interesting. And she also goes through the forest, in general, there are only advantages.

We meet already ripe strawberries. This year it is a month later than usual.

To get to the “geysers” you have to ford the Paritsa River. This turned out to be more difficult than I thought. The level in the river has risen; before it was twice as shallow. And the water also turned out to be icy.

Here is the first, most beautiful and tall “geyser”. Tourists start taking pictures with him.

“Geysers” are also surrounded by myths. Since the object is popular, and people often write about it everywhere, it acquires a variety of details. Let me just say that in fact this is artesian water from underground sources, gushing from the depths due to the high pressure that exists underground. Oil also gushes out like a fountain if you drill a well. There are similar outlets of artesian water in other places in our region, where a well was drilled, but they forgot or did not want to close it. So these are, of course, not “geysers”, but fountains that appeared due to human fault, and flow due to natural forces.

Here is the second fountain. You have to walk to it through a muddy forest road.

The path again leads to the Paritsa River. A beautiful river, transparent and clean.

Here is one of the wells that has retained its original appearance. On top is a metal column that could be used to supply water to surrounding villages or the city of Gatchina. This is what the wells were made for. The columns had to cover them, and, if necessary, allow water to be released from them. But, apparently, they were simply stolen and sold for metal, and the precious artesian water is pushed out from great depths due to earthly pressure.

Third fountain. Depending on the time of year, as well as on some other unpredictable reasons, the height of each of the “geysers” constantly fluctuates. There were years when the first almost dried up, and the third hit with all its might. And now it’s exactly the opposite.

Let's go to bus stop in Korpikovo. We hit a long break, the bus left at 20.50, now we have to wait at 22.08. This is bad, because from the last bus you can only get on the last train at 22.54, and you can’t get on the 22.05 from Gatchina Varshavskaya or 22.00 from Gatchina Baltiyskaya. Therefore, I suggested that the guys catch rides or taxis so that they could be taken there earlier. That's what everyone did. There were only five of us left - those who were not in a particular hurry, who were willing to leave even by the last train - and we waited for the bus, which took us safely to Gatchina, and then boarded the last Luga train, arriving at the Baltic station at 23.45.

There are many in Russia amazing places, acquaintance with which leaves a lot of strong impressions. These include the Dontso tract. The lake with the same name is an artificial reservoir that arose on the site of one of the once abandoned limestone quarries with the memorable name Kurlevskie. The springs that gave rise to the legendary filled the workings with crystal clear transparent water. This is how this lake was formed, becoming one of the vacation spots where many people strive to go with the arrival of summer.

The Dontso tract, which has the status of a nature reserve, extends over 950 hectares. These places are famous for the abundance of underground springs and springs, an excellent selection of plants, including endangered fauna listed in the Red Book, as well as rare species of fish that have found refuge in the lakes of the Kurlevsky quarries. One of these reservoirs will be discussed in our article.

Dontso - lake with white shores

Located between the villages of Dontso and Pyataya Gora, Volosovsky district, it has long won the appreciation of fishermen and amateurs. active rest by the water. Wonderful nature of temperate latitudes, indescribable sunrises and sunsets, cool crystal water and White sand banks surrounded by lush green forests - all this attracts everyone who has visited these ancient mysterious places.

Nature generously endowed Lake Dontso. Beach covered with unusual colors, transparent, pure water from springs gushing at the bottom... A small pond area of ​​700 sq. meters is compensated by the quality of the water - crystal, rich azure color. The depth of the lake does not exceed 3.5-4 meters, and with absolute transparency of the water you can see the bottom in any weather. On hot days, the water warms up well, which is appreciated by swimming enthusiasts.

Fishing on the lake

This is how the small forest lake Dontso appears to tourists. Fishing on it, according to experienced amateurs, is a fascinating activity, which, due to the transparency of the water, turns not into fishing, but a duel “who will outwit whom,” since the potential prey, which sees the hunter, goes to secret places overgrown with underwater vegetation. The lake is inhabited by perches, pike, and roach - the desired object of every fisherman. But, it must be said, the fish there are not large, no more than 300 g. Fishermen who have chosen the Kurlevsky quarries claim that local species of trout and grayling are found in the upper reaches of the Oredezh River.

Spearfishing

It is worth noting that Dontso (lake) is attractive for those who engage in underwater fishing. Underwater fishermen are attracted by the crystal clear water. However, experienced fishermen find these places too easy, although the quarries are ideal for training novice athletes, given the presence of rich underwater vegetation and potential prey. But not only underwater hunters hone their skills there. Divers value their walks very much: the lake opens its arms to scuba divers, showing amazing world underwater inhabitants.

Swimming in the quarries

Despite the fact that the springs and springs that fill the lake are quite cold, vacationers appreciate Donzo for its shallow depth, which allows the sun to warm the reservoir well. This is evidenced by numerous reviews from swimmers, many of whom are children. Family holiday, according to vacationers, it is excellent. The lake not only has clear water, but also a flat sandy bottom. However, when the water rises in the quarries, the approach to the lake is difficult: you have to walk through clay to get to the water. However, such changes usually occur in the spring, and by the swimming season everything returns to normal.

Lake Dontso: how to get there

Let's say right away that public transport It will not be possible to get to these protected places. It is so mysterious, this Lake Dontso. How to get there by car? If we consider St. Petersburg as the starting point (and it is located 80 km from the Kurlevsky quarries), then you should take the road going in the southwest direction. Beyond Gatchina they turn onto Elizavetino and, having passed this locality, get to the village of Fifth Mountain. And from there they drive along a dirt road to the quarries.

There is another route - along the Kyiv highway. Along it, tourists reach the village of Vyra, and then turn right, focusing on Zamosc, passing which they soon pass the bridge over the Oredezh River. You must turn onto it soon after it. It’s not difficult to figure out how to get to the lake, but travelers going there for the first time are better off enlisting the help of a navigator.

Finally

For those going to the Kurlevsky quarries for the first time, it is important to understand that Donzo is a lake located in nature reserve, and there is no paved highway leading to it. An unpleasant surprise for “refined” tourists may be the inconvenient access to the reservoir. leading to quarries is a difficult test for a car, and every year it only gets worse. In addition, it will not be possible to drive close to the water, since about twenty meters from the shore there is a ditch that cannot be overcome and positioned near the water with a car. In addition, do not forget about the status of a nature reserve assigned to the Dontso tract. It imposes certain obligations and responsibilities on vacationers: fishing is officially prohibited here, and cutting down forests is also prohibited. In a word, the Kurlev quarries are not a specially organized vacation spot, but a corner of untouched nature, and you need to behave there accordingly.