Independent travel in croatia by car. Croatia travel itinerary options - tips needed

By a strange coincidence of random and not accidental life circumstances, but it is the countries of the former Yugoslavia that your humble servant managed to travel far and wide, and more than once. Serbia, Montenegro, Bosnia and Herzegovina and even Slovenia were amazingly revealed in their beauty and originality the more, the more often they had to be there. And in many respects this was due to the car, on which it was possible to call in where not a single plane flies and not a single tourist bus will deliver.

How to get from Russia directly to Montenegro by car -.

As always, there is an exception to every rule. Such a pearl of the Adriatic coast as Croatia, for some reason, hid, hid, dodged my attention, but in the end, surrendered - "Dobro došli u Hrvatsku"!

First of all, it is worth saying that you can get from Russia to Croatia in different ways, including directly by car. Since there is a similar experience behind us, it is worth warning that the path is not short and difficult - at least three thousand kilometers and three or four days of travel in one direction.

And although such a trip gives just a huge amount of impressions and is rich in events, we can recommend it only to true adventure lovers. And as practice has shown, due to the cost of fuel in Europe, this method is not particularly profitable financially than a ticket with an airplane ticket. So let's fly!

To visit Croatia, Russian citizens need a national visa, which is issued in advance. The country is a member of the EU, but it is not included in either the Schengen or the Euro zone. Therefore, with a Croatian visa it is impossible to get to other countries of the European agreement, however, with an already open "multishengen" additional entry permits are not required. There are no restrictions on the use of Russian-style driver's licenses in Croatia.

The territory of modern Croatia (especially the Adriatic coast) has the most ancient and the richest history, dating back to the third millennium BC. Who else has not left their mark here! The country managed to catch the heyday and power of Ancient Greece, the Roman and Byzantine empires, having visited their colony at different times, and also went through all the stages of medieval European strife.

Despite this, the overwhelming majority of Croatia is inhabited by Slavs, who first began to develop these lands in the seventh century AD. Perhaps it is for this reason that our compatriots are so fond of going on vacation to visit, in many respects, the brotherly people.

One of the signs of this ethnographic kinship is the national language, which, in general, is spoken in all Balkan countries. And although, written in Latin, it may seem foreign and incomprehensible to Russians, in fact, in the Croatian and Russian languages ​​there are many words of the same root and similar in meaning. Thanks to this, even remote from resort areas regions, you can almost always explain yourself and understand at least the meaning of what is asked or answered.

The national currency is the Croatian Kuna (HRK). Roughly rounded, it is equal to six Russian rubles, or slightly more than one-sixth of a euro at the exchange rate at the end of May 2014. However, throughout tourist area Croatia easily accepts euros for payment, not to mention credit cards.

But back to cars. As you might guess, renting a car in a tourist country is as easy as shelling pears. Companies providing this service are a dime a dozen. If you want - book a car in advance via the Internet with a meeting right at the airport, if you want - take it upon arrival at the same airport or hotel. Moreover, you can rent a scooter and even an ATV. We only note that early booking is much more profitable - the prices in the hotel offices are high.

The minimum cost for which you can rent a car is about 20-25 euros per day. Convertible prices start at an average of 50-60 euros. However, at the peak of the summer season, prices rise two to three times!

From our point of view, the optimal car for Croatia is a compact hatchback with a diesel engine. Having a good reserve of torque, the engine easily goes uphill along numerous serpentines, while consuming a minimum of fuel. And the compact size will allow you to squeeze into the narrow streets and tight parking lots of resort towns.

Traditionally, there are three resort areas in Croatia: the coast of the Kvarner Gulf, Istria and Dolmatia. We will stop at the acquaintance with the latter.

The capital of this region and the second largest after Zagreb - beautiful city Split. If you are going to actively travel around Dolmatia, this particular town should be considered as a starting point, since Split has an extremely advantageous location, being the center of the intersection of the main roads and paths that diverge around the country.

From here you can easily reach southern Dubrovnik, northern Zadar and Zagreb, the capital of the country, via the A1 expressway. In addition, there are ferries from Split to the numerous inhabited islands, where there is also something to see.

The quality of the roads in Croatia is excellent in most cases. In remote areas, of course, there are broken sections. However, even such rare islets of potholes do not cause the need to brake sharply or urgently go to the side. Serpentines are a separate story. Of all the Balkan countries in Croatia, they are the most well-groomed and wide, although bumpers on the side of the cliff are also rare - be careful.

And also, against the background of its neighbors, Croatia has the most disciplined drivers. In Serbia and Montenegro locals on mountain roads sometimes they drive as if they have several lives in reserve.

Police on Croatian roads are rare, but there is no need to relax. When necessary, it can appear as if out of the ground. I must say that local residents do not strictly follow the traffic rules, but adhere to the minimum error, because fines can reach several hundred euros.

The responsibility of Croatian drivers is such that they can use rather loyal restrictions on the amount of alcohol consumed. True, you cannot drink while driving until the age of 24 - strictly 0.00 ppm. But after reaching this age - up to 0.5 ppm, which allowed the author of this text to boldly drink a couple of glasses of red wine at lunch.

Like any Mediterranean country, Croatia is famous for its winemaking. Even ordinary table wine tastes good. However, the average cost of inexpensive wine is higher than in Germany or France - about 10 euros in a store. Massive, but considered to be better quality wines reach 20-30 euros per bottle. By the way, if you are going to export wine from Croatia, buy it in advance in local shops and check it in your luggage. In Duty Free, the same wine is one and a half times more expensive.

Croatian cuisine, on a par with other Balkan countries, cannot but please. It is curious that both fish and meat are excellently cooked here, and in all forms! Therefore, ideally, order both at dinner, in order to taste everything.

Keep in mind that Slavic generosity allows you to order one dish for two - the portions are very large, not counting the fact that almost every main dish relies on a traditional side dish - a plate of boiled potatoes with spinach. However, the cost is appropriate: for example, a tray with hot seafood will cost 60-70 euros for two.

It is pointless to describe the beauty of old Split, led by the main attraction - the palace of Diocletian built in 305 AD - it is necessary to see, study, listen and admire. Let's just say: the ancient Roman city will allow you to plunge headlong into its 1700-year-old history and stay here for a few days before moving on.

And then I recommend going to the city of Trogir, located 30 kilometers from Split. It is, of course, not so large-scale and impressive, but with its coziness and historical diversity it is worth spending at least a day here.

The intertwining narrow streets of the Old Town showcase both Roman heritage and Venetian architecture. And also - listen to folk songs of local talents, performing works exclusively a cappella.

Of course, you must visit one of the many islands that literally "cover" the entire coast. It is interesting that the locals use them, in fact, as summer cottages, where they get every season either on their own sailboats or yachts, or on ferries.

But there are also large islands, where there are quite large settlements with permanent residents. One of these places is the island of Hvar. You can get there by ferry from the same Split.

Keep in mind, having studied the departure schedule and choosing a convenient time, it is better to arrive in about half an hour. Since the number of seats on the ferry is limited, and the queue in the summer season can be rather big. You will have to pay separately for the car and separately - for each passenger. The total cost of tickets from Split to the Old Town, located on the western coast of the island of Hvar, for a car and two people will be 304 kunas, or about 40 euros one way. Travel time will be about three hours.

Let's make a reservation right away that for those who do not really like sailing on ships, you can get to the island or return to the mainland from the eastern side of the island. From the island village of Suchurai to the town of Drvenik is less than an hour's journey by ferry. By the way, in the huge and comfortable wardroom of the ferry, not only do you not feel the pitching at all, you can also easily sleep, have a drink, have a snack or play something. The farm will be especially interesting for those who are involved in agriculture in Russia. For example, to see tomatoes growing outside the greenhouse, instead of an apple orchard - olive and grape, a chicken coop under open air and southern vegetables are very unusual. Eh, the climate allows it.

A typical "car fleet" of local peasants: a small tractor for rural work, a minibus for all family members, which, if necessary, performs the function of a truck and, albeit an old, but parade-exit car to the capital. As they say, for all occasions.

You can finish your trip around the island in the fishing village of Suchurai on the eastern outskirts of the island (80 km from the western one). While waiting for the ferry, you should definitely try the freshest fish and seafood in practically home-made restaurants and talk about life with local fishermen, who make up the main population of the town.

Unfortunately, it was impossible to stay longer in Croatia. But I really wanted to! So many were left without attention that I seriously thought about spending a couple of weeks of vacation here somehow. Without any discounts, Croatia is the pearl of the Balkans.

The most beautiful, most interesting and most versatile country when compared, for example, with Adriatic Montenegro and Slovenia or mainland Serbia. But also the most expensive of them. The average prices for vouchers, as well as the prices in the country itself, are one and a half times higher than the Montenegrin prices ... True, it's worth it!

In this article, I will tell you the main points about traveling in Croatia on your own. You will learn a few facts about the country that any traveler should know for sure and which will prepare you for a great vacation without surprises.

Traveling around Croatia on your own: interesting facts

Fact 1: Croatia has no sandy beaches

Classic beach of classic Croatia

Yes Yes exactly. 99% of all coastline these are either rocks, or pebbles, or concrete embankments. Sandy beaches are absent here as a class. If you like to bury each other in the sand by the sea, then Croatia is definitely not the right place for this. On the other hand, the absence of sandy beaches has many advantages:

  • Very clean and transparent sea with a water transparency of 30-50m. Venice, which is located 200 km from Croatia, is washed by an already muddy and dirty sea.
  • Amazing water color.
  • Excellent conditions for diving and snorkeling.
  • Do not drag sand on your feet to the apartment, which is then everywhere

It's important to know: Very often hotels write that they are located on a sandy beach. Recheck this information 5 times, read reviews and look at other sources. Among the Croats, pebbles of a fine fraction are often considered already sand. And what a surprise, to come to rest on a sandy beach, which essentially consists of pebbles 1-2 cm in diameter.

Fact 2: the entire coastline in Croatia is state-owned

This means that in your trip to Croatia you will not find hotels with closed private beaches at all. 100% of the country's coastline is open to anyone and with free access. This is a huge merit of the country's leadership, who preferred to leave the sea in the ownership of each Croat, and did not reach out for economic benefits by selling the tidbit plots very dearly.

What you need to know about this before traveling:

  • 50m from the sea it is forbidden to put any fences.
  • All hotels in the country, even those with a closed territory, have only a common municipal beach. And if you are a guest of an expensive and elite hotel, in order to lie on the beach or go for a swim, you will have to go outside the hotel to the "ordinary" people 🙂
  • There are no paid beaches in principle. But on the beach there can be umbrellas and sun loungers, the rent of which costs money (about 10-20 HRK per day).
  • There may also be sun loungers on the territory of hotels, they are already for guests, but the sea will be 50-100m.
  • In all cities of the country, along the sea, there are many kilometers of walking paths, as well as bicycle paths. They run right along the edge of the sea.

Fact 3: Expensive seafood


An ordinary fish market in any city in Croatia

A little foreword: in 2014, the next season of the mega popular series "Game of Thrones" was released on TV screens. The entire season was filmed in Croatia, in particular in the vicinity of the cities of Split and Dubrovnik. Hundreds of millions of people learned about this beautiful country overnight. As a result, the number of tourists every year increases exponentially, and prices rise accordingly.

Interesting fact: the government of the country paid the creators of the series "Game of Thrones" 7 million euros for the fact that they would shoot the series in Croatia.

As of 2019, Croatia is not cheap country, this applies to everything. But what is very disappointing is that Croatia is a maritime country, where sea borders are larger than land borders, and the abundance of sea reptiles is simply off scale - and the cost of seafood on the market is more expensive than in Moscow stores.

For example:

  • Shrimp 1kg - 20 euros
  • Tuna fillet 1 kg - 20 euros
  • Ordinary fish 1kg - about 10 euros

Fact 4: in the footsteps of Game of Thrones


Castle 5 kilometers from Dubrovnik

As you already understood, "Game of Thrones" was filmed here and if you are a fan of this series, then in Croatia you can plunge deeper and feel the atmosphere that was in the series. And selfies against the background of castles and sights from your favorite TV series will collect a bunch of likes on social networks.

So, what objects from your favorite TV series can be visited or captured live in Croatia:

  • Royal Harbor - Dubrovnik's old town
  • Battle of the Blackwater - St. Lawrence Fortress near Dubrovnik
  • Garden of the Red Castle - Tresteno Arboretum
  • Scene of the Crucifixion of the Great Lords Meereen - Klis Fortress
  • Braavos town - Sibenik

And a huge amount significant places(more than 50), where the shooting took place. If you are a fan, then a trip to Croatia will definitely not be forgotten for you.

Fact 5: Very cheap car rental

Perhaps this is the only thing that surprised us in a pleasant way in terms of prices in Croatia. Car rental in this country is easier and cheaper than in the rest of Europe. And the deposit is three times less than, for example, in neighboring Italy.

The country has excellent high-speed roads, a low crime rate, a high culture of other drivers on the roads - all this makes car rental pleasant, affordable and safe, and independent travel in Croatia is amazing.

For details on how we rented a car in Croatia and how much we paid (spoiler: less than 200 euros per week), read the article: car rental in Croatia, all the subtleties and our own experience.

Fact 6: The official currency of Croatia is not the euro


Although Croatia is in the Schengen zone, it is not yet the European Union and the integration is not complete. This means that you can come here on a Schengen visa, but the currency in the country is not yet Euro.

In Croatia, the national currency is named after a tree and an animal.

The paper money is called Kunas. In honor of the marten, since earlier the skins of this animal were used as a means of payment.

Coins in Croatia are called Lipa. In honor of the tree of the same name.

Today in 2019, there are already places where you can pay in euros: for example, in a taxi or for renting apartments by the sea. But still, 90% of all settlements take place in Kuhn.

Fact 7: The most beautiful place in the world


One of the lakes of the national park

There are a million ratings on the Internet on absolutely any topic. And there is a rating "the most beautiful places on the planet", this rating has been compiled a thousand times by completely different people, publications and agencies with different ideas about beauty and beauty.

This is a truly magical and amazing place. Hundreds of waterfalls create the atmosphere fairy tale... Only the crowds of Chinese do not let them forget that all this is happening in real life.

A detailed report about our independent trip to Croatia in this national park in the article: Plitvice Lakes.

Fact 8: Real truffles grow here - and I'm not talking about candy


Croatian truffle cutaway

In Croatia, not only grapes are grown and wine is made. In the north of the country, since the end of August, thousands of people in the forests have been looking for this terribly expensive mushroom. The truffle grows here in wildlife which makes it even more valuable.

In northern Dalmatia you can find restaurants serving pasta with truffle. Or you can buy 10g of this mushroom in a souvenir shop and bring it home for your culinary masterpieces.

And what is most interesting: although this mushroom is expensive, 1000 euros a kilogram. But one mushroom weighs on average 10-15g and it is enough to cook an excellent pasta for four, which means that haute cuisine is quite affordable for you.

Fact 9: The real and the first Colosseum was not built in Rome


Colosseum in Pula. Very similar to one building in Rome, isn't it?

In the Croatian city of Pula, the Colosseum was built for gladiatorial battles, which is perfectly preserved today. And in summer months right in the arena of the colosseum, events, concerts and creative evenings take place, which is not at all difficult to get to.

Historical background: after the Colosseum was built in Pula, the construction of the Colosseum in Rome began 20 years later. And looking at the photo it is not difficult to guess which structure the Roman Amphitheater was built on.

Croatia is a magical country.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION: below are the main resources that help us organize any independent travel (just add what you need to your bookmarks):

Flight:- the largest meta search engine for air tickets on the Runet. Search for 100 airlines including low-cost airlines.

Discount hotels:- high-quality and convenient hotel search engine. Compares prices from all booking sites, including booking, ostrovok and shows where it is cheaper. Personally, we always book accommodation only here.

Ready tours: and - the two largest aggregators of ready-made tours to all countries of Europe and Asia without going to the office.

Car rental:- convenient car rental service. - quite cheap car rental in Europe. Any service of your choice.

Medical insurance for tourists:- Convenient insurance for those traveling abroad. 4-5 $ for extended insurance to the Schengen area. The insurance works even in Zanzibar - personally verified 🙂

My first independent trip was in Croatia... Summer was approaching, I wanted the sea, the sun, the coziness of an ancient European city, and at the same time I did not want a long and stressful flight.
I have always believed that independent travel is very difficult, you need to know the language perfectly, be able to book hotels, buy tickets, and not get lost in a foreign country - so I went straight to a travel agency.

With the manager, a lot of options were worked out - Cyprus, Greece, Spain, Montenegro, Croatia, etc. We stopped in Croatia - the country fully corresponded to my ideas about the right vacation, and also attracted by the lack of visas in the summer. Rest criteria were as follows: Central Dalmatia, a small hotel without animation, as close as possible to the sea, as well as relative proximity to some city, because I do not like exclusively beach holidays. Surprisingly, they could not satisfy my very modest desires - either the hotel is too far away, or it was too big with animation and round-the-clock fun, or it simply did not satisfy my aesthetic ideas, or it was very expensive. That day I left with nothing and was terribly upset.

In the evening I went to the Internet, and, once again, after reading the reviews of independent travelers, I decided to act. I found information about airlines on the websites, special promotions and discounts on flights, sites on which hotels are booked. It took one evening to book tickets. In the middle of May special offers little, the most profitable turned out to be from a tour operator in Croatia, from which tickets were purchased for the Moscow-Split flight of the Transaero airline. To buy tickets, even a plastic card was not needed, the money was transferred using an instant transfer through the bank.

Then the choice of the hotel began. Everything here was more complicated, not because it was not easy to book a hotel (this procedure only takes a few minutes), but because it was not easy to decide on a hotel due to the variety of options offered. That's where the creativity is! No agency is able to offer so many different options. As a result, the choice fell on a place called Subcountry, near g. Split and a small, cozy aparthotel with a kitchenette. I decided to book a hotel with a kitchen because there were very conflicting reviews about the village and, after reading them, I did not understand how things are with restaurants and cafes in the district. As a consequence, it turned out that I did not make my choice in vain. Booked a hotel room on booking.com. My trip, which was scheduled for the end of June, was a month and a half away.

Arriving in Croatia, we decided to go to Podstrana by taxi. As usual, you can take a taxi at the exit from the airport, only unlike in our country, you pay by the meter there and taxi drivers are the nicest, polite people who help you carry your luggage and open the door for you. Contrary to my expectations, there were no mountain serpentines, the trip turned out to be comfortable on a good, flat road. I heard that there are serpentines closer to South Dalmatia. But there was no opportunity to check. The trip took approximately 30 minutes and cost 60 euros. At the hotel we were met by the owner, who was called in advance by a helpful taxi driver, and from that moment the rest in Croatia began.

This is a wonderful country with clean air, azure sea, smiling and friendly people. The language barrier?! It was easy for me there, although, contrary to numerous reviews, the Croatian language is completely incomprehensible and I do not find the slightest similarity to the Russian language, it was easier to ask in English (although I know it very mediocre), and sometimes in Russian.

Every day we went for a walk to nearby cities - Omis, Split, Trogir, fortunately, buses go there every half hour, and with some of them there is also a sea connection. For example, from Omis and Split you can sail on an excursion to the Islands.

Croatian cities are a medieval tale. Very cozy and unhurried, paved with paving stones, and in the center, in the very heat, thanks to the stone and proximity to the sea, pleasant coolness blows - it is a pleasure to walk there. Restaurants and cafes are everywhere, any street will definitely lead to one of them.

Prices are quite acceptable, for example, a portion of tuna or gilthead costs 500-600 rubles, salad 150-400 rubles, soup 100-300 rubles, coffee 100-120 rubles; the portions are huge, I had to take it with me more than once or take it for two. All products are freshest and not only in restaurants. Croatian kitchen- delicious, but the most common, without pretense of sophistication. If it is meat or fish, then simply grilled salads, mostly without dressing, but there is always salt, pepper, balsamic vinegar and olive oil on the table so that visitors can dress the dishes to their liking.

In the markets you can buy seafood, excellent cheeses (I bought several varieties at home), prosciutto- jerky, which is one of the national Croatian dishes, various fruits, the price of which is much cheaper than ours, and purchase black and white truffles as a delicacy. A large selection of souvenirs, as in any resort town- all kinds of handicrafts made of stone in Trogir, lace that Croatian old women-needlewomen weave right in the center of Split, local alcoholic drinks (travarica, plum brandy, etc.), silver jewelry (I was assured that jewelry with coral from local producers), bags and oil with lavender, olive oil (our store does not compare with the local one), natural soap and traditional magnets. In my opinion, prices in Omis are slightly lower than in Split and Trogir.

Now a little more detail about Sub-country... The village is very quiet and calm, I had a Villa Jercan apartment by the sea, literally three steps to the water's edge. The hotel has its own beach, at the entrance to the sea the bottom is pebble, and then there is sand - I am writing about this, because I was surprised by this fact, I thought that in Croatia there are pebbles almost everywhere, at least in this place for sure. Minus of this place the fact that there are only two restaurants in the vicinity, about 500 m along the seashore, one grocery store, so in the village it is wiser to rent an apartment with at least a small kitchen to prepare the essentials.

Otherwise, everything is fine - the proximity to Omis and Split, a stop near the house, the absence of crowds of tourists. A bus ticket to Split and Omis costs 10-12 kunas, for route taxi a little cheaper. The owner organizes various excursions and extreme views recreation, car rental, offers taxi services for a reasonable fee. You can independently go to the national park Krka, to oyster farms, as well as to visit many other interesting places.

If you are interested not only in a beach holiday, then one week will not be enough to travel around Croatia, the best option is two weeks - the time during which you can have time to see the most popular sights, walk around the cities, study the traditions and existence of another country and have plenty of rest on the sea.

I want to note that independent travel planning is not at all difficult, moreover, it is interesting, the process took me so deeply that now I follow all the offered promotions of well-known airlines, as well as discounts on hotels in various countries. And I will organize the next trip myself, without travel agencies. Indeed, in addition to significant cost savings, it is also an incredible pleasure.

Some time before my birthday, my husband began to persistently ask me about my wishes for a gift. On reflection, I came to the amazing conclusion that I do not want anything material. I would like to travel. In the hot summer, to the sea, to the country with beautiful nature and many attractions. “Give me Croatia,” I asked.
No sooner said than done. And since we always travel independently, without buying standard tours and the help of travel agencies, the format of the trip was drawn by itself: a savage, by car, along the entire Adriatic coast of Croatia. Travel time is strictly limited to 11 days at the end of June.
First you need to decide how to get into the country. Croatia and Ukraine have a strange visa regime. To obtain a visa, you must have either the original booking of a hotel with paid accommodation, or the original invitation of a Croatian citizen on the established form, certified by the Croatian Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Both options are in principle achievable with sufficient time and internet. It is possible to book a hotel on the coast and ask for confirmation by express mail. You can book a private apartment and ask its owner to send an invitation (they often agree to this, knowing our visa regime). But neither one nor the other is suitable for free artists like us, since it ties us to one place by living. And I want to see a lot.
I started calling travel agencies with a question about visa support for additional money without buying a tour. The reaction was different - from indifferent to indignant - but always negative :) Quite by accident, at the Ukrainian automobile forum, I read a message from one participant who used the services of a travel agency friendly to the Croatian embassy. According to legend, the owner of this travel agency is a Croat who enjoys the ambassador's favor :). I called there, and a nice girl told me that they are ready to provide us with visa support without anything else. Only here the prices were not encouraging - 140 euros for a weekly visa and 170 euros for a two-week visa. The two visas we need will cost 340 euros, while buying accommodation from a travel agency would cost a maximum of 100 euros more. But we decided that freedom is more expensive and agreed to apply for visas :) It should also be borne in mind that a Croatian visa is issued for 2 weeks (10 working days), and a Hungarian transit visa - 1 week (5 working days). Everything went smoothly, and on the appointed day we received our passports. They also bought medical insurance there. We were satisfied with the services of the travel agency, everything was completed not only on time, but even a few days earlier. In addition, we were handed a voucher for accommodation in a hotel on the coast, allegedly booked and paid for by us, in case anyone at the border would be interested. Of course, no one demanded this, but the care of the travel agency was pleasant. And there we were presented with a map of Croatia, however, by that time we had already acquired our own. " Green card»For the car, the husband issued in his insurance company, although it is also possible in a travel agency.
Two guidebooks were purchased on the Petrovka book market: one - Croatia from the Polyglot series, the other - Croatia from the World around us series. The first one is completely stupid, like most of the Russian guidebooks, by the way. The second is better, more detailed, but lacks any practical information. Only descriptions of cities, attractions, national parks... Also two car cards were purchased (Croatia and Hungary). Looking ahead, I will say that in a couple of years since the release of the cards, a lot has changed. In Croatia, there is a grandiose construction of roads, highways, junctions, etc. This is not yet on the map. For example, there is no autobahn to Split at all. Fortunately, signs on the roads are very informative, so often we were guided only by them.
A common part of preparing for a trip on your own is searching the net for vacation reports in a given country. This is usually practical and valuable information. There are not many reports of savages about Croatia. All of them have been carefully studied.
After reading preliminary information from travel guides and notes experienced tourists the following route began to emerge from the Internet: Kiev - Uzhgorod - Zagreb - Kvarner Bay - Istrian Peninsula - Krk Island - Zadar - Split - Dubrovnik - Plitvice Lakes - Zagreb - Uzhgorod - Kiev.
It was decided to book accommodation only in Zagreb. We planned to arrive there late in the evening, and we might not have enough energy to look for housing after a whole day of driving. We expected to stay there for the night, spend the whole next day exploring the capital of Croatia, then spend the night there again, and in the morning go to the coast. I emailed the owner of the Pecas apartment and booked two nights in a double room for 300 kuna (approximately 42 euros) per night. No prepayment was required from us.

ROAD THERE

This part of the story will be of interest only to those who intend to travel to Croatia in their own car, like us. The rest can go straight to the next part.
For those traveling by plane, I can only say that a charter to Croatia can also be bought separately from the tour at travel agencies, for which this country is one of the leading destinations. The prices I have met are 190-250 euros for a round-trip flight. Planes fly to Pula, Split, Dubrovnik, possibly somewhere else.

The original plan was to go on the road immediately after the end of the working day, by nightfall to get to Uzhgorod, spend the night there, and the next day to get across all of Hungary and part of Croatia to Zagreb. However, life has made its own adjustments. My husband stayed at work, and we managed to leave the house only after eight in the evening.
The first time we refueled at Lukoil in Zhitomir, the second time also at Lukoil at the entrance to Lviv.
At about two o'clock in the morning there was no strength to continue the journey, so we turned into the first motel on the road. It turned out to be a Viking near Lviv. However, the price is 190 UAH. 5 hours of sleep seemed too wasteful to us. In the price list, we noticed the price of 20 UAH / person. It turned out to be a room with two beds in a nearby parking lot. We were satisfied with her examination, and we spent the night there.
We left at about eight. Near Chop we stopped at Natalie's motel to eat. The cafe of this institution pleased me - expensive interior, delicious food, large portions. As a result, they paid 100 hryvnyas, although they hoped for an amount at least twice as large.
At the very border, a full tank of gasoline was filled at OKKO.
We arrived at the Tisza checkpoint at half past one. The line of cars impressed with its length and immobility. For the next three tiring hours, we languished in a black car under the scorching sun. It turned out that on this day the Hungarians showed particular zeal when inspecting cars. The passengers in front of the car were even counted packs of cigarettes. And from a nearby trash can was an unopened LD block.
Finally the border is behind. We entered the territory of Hungary. Everyone here drives with the dipped headlights on. The first 30 km Pasha tried to control the speed, but soon we got on the tail of the local "pilots" and continued our journey faster.
In Nyiregyhaza, at the very first gas station, they bought a pass to all the autobahns of Hungary for 12 days for 2500 forints (about 13 euros). We paid with a card, so there was no need to change the money. The stamp was glued to the windshield of the car. Its presence is monitored on the roads by special vehicles equipped with reading devices. We saw one such bright orange with the inscription Control near Balaton.
The autobahn to Budapest has begun. This is our first experience of traveling in Europe by car, so we were on the Autobahn for the first time. The coverage is perfect, the maximum permitted speed is 130 km / h. All cars are driving on the right. The left lane for overtaking.
A huge black cloud appeared on the horizon 100 km before Budapest, and the day instantly turned into night. The rain started unexpectedly hard. Large drops drummed on the glass with such force that even the wipers turned on at the highest speed could not cope with the flow of water. We could orient ourselves only by the barely visible red lights of the car in front. However, there is not a hint of puddles on the asphalt, so we, of course, dropped the speed, but continued to move.
In Budapest, the downpour ended as unexpectedly as it began.
Guided by the signs in the city, we somehow got out onto the autobahn leading to the Croatian border. We had a snack at one of the many gas stations. Driving on the Autobahn is extremely tiring :) The ideal road surface and cruise control in the car instantly lull both the driver and passengers. Therefore, we held on with our last strength, and when they (strength) ran out, we just stopped at a gas station and took a nap for about 20 minutes. It helped :)
We reached the Croatian border by midnight. There was not a single car at the checkpoint in either direction. We went through all the formalities in a matter of seconds and entered Croatia. At the border, we changed some money for Croatian kunas (the rate was 1 euro = 7.04 kunas, if I'm not mistaken).
In Croatia, the autobahn payment system is different. At the entrance to the toll road at the checkpoint in front of the barrier, a coupon is taken, and at the end of the journey, it is paid depending on the number of kilometers traveled. In addition, in Croatia this pleasure is much more expensive. For 10 days, we paid a total of about 100 euros for the use of toll road facilities (autobahns, bridges, tunnels).
Immediately after the border, I sent an SMS to the owner of the apartment we booked with information that we would be in Zagreb in about an hour. He replied that he would be waiting for us at the house.

DAY 1. ZAGREB

Having reached Zagreb, we asked some guys for directions to our apartment by car. They kindly showed us the way, driving there with us. A young guy with whom we corresponded was waiting for us near the house.
Our dwelling turned out to be a rather large three-room apartment, in each of the rooms of which guests live. With us, one of the rooms was free, and two girls lived in the other. However, they were already asleep. The room seemed to us not bad, although quite ordinary.

We woke up quite late, at 9.00. Road fatigue affected. We gathered slowly and left the house at about 11.00.
There are exactly 10 steps from our house to some large street. On it we saw a large TO CENTER pointer pointing to the left. We went there. On the way we went to a bookstore and bought a map of Zagreb.
Vlasta street led us straight to Kaptol square. It contains the symbol of Zagreb - St. Stephen's Cathedral. It rises above the city with two towers over 100 meters high. Part of the facade is in scaffolding. In front of the cathedral there is a column with a golden statue of the Virgin Mary.
After examining the cathedral, we turned into a narrow street and found ourselves at the most famous Donak market. Here in the souvenir stand we bought a couple of souvenirs. At the market itself, they could not resist buying large ripe apricots (in Croatian “marelki”). They ate them right there, unwashed, from a huge paper bag :)
Then we examined the Ban Yelachich square, where we met two residents of Odessa - a fisherman, a fisherman ... :)
In one of the nearby narrow streets we sat down at a table under an umbrella to drink tea and coffee. In Croatia, such street cafes are almost invisible. Streets from wall to wall are lined with umbrellas of the nearest establishments. Moreover, there is a clear division into establishments where you can eat and where you cannot. In most of these street cafes, the menu contains only drinks - tea, coffee, juices, mineral water, cola, and occasionally ice cream. Food is less common.
We are heading to the Upper Grad. We go up the street, consisting only of steps, and find ourselves on a platform with a stunning panorama of the city. Not a single person around!
We approach the Lotrscak town hall. I lift my head and notice people at the very top. So there is an observation deck! We climb an inconspicuous staircase in the backyard, past someone’s apartment blocks and terraces, wondering if we’ll end up in someone’s dwelling instead of a tower. A clerk meets us upstairs and asks for a visit to the observation deck for 10 kuna (1.4 euros). With an ISIC student card, the price is halved. By the way, this is the case in many places. On observation deck the view is amazing! The whole city at a glance. There is a bell on the town hall, and every day at noon a cannon shoots from the town hall. But we did not find it - we came there much later.
In general, in Croatia, in every little or no self-respecting town there is a tower, or a town hall, or a bell tower, which tourists climb to see and photograph bright orange tiled roofs, the sights of the town, the blue sea and white yachts in the distance. Zagreb marked the beginning of this entertainment of ours :)
Further along the route is the Cathedral of St. Mark. It is easily recognizable by its tiled roof, on which two coats of arms - Croatia and Zagreb - are laid out with colored tiles. On the same square is the residence of the President of Croatia and the People's Assembly.
We go down a little down to the Stone Gate of the city and the statue of St. George.
Tired. Back to the market. Here on market square we dine in one of the many bistros with rice, fish and green salad for a democratic 100 kuna.
Now let's explore Lower town- the so-called Green Horseshoe. This is a long green square (or several squares), broken by the letter P. Fountains, a meteorological column, a pavilion of Science and Art. We approach the station. From here you can see the view familiar from the numerous photographs of Zagreb: in the foreground is the equestrian statue of the first Croatian king Tomislav, behind it is the pavilion of Science and Art, and in the distance you can see the two spiers of the Cathedral. Please take a photo of the two of us at this place. The woman tries on for a long, long time and, finally, takes pictures. We look at the results of her work and cannot help laughing - only the two of us and a piece of the foundation of the monument fit in the picture. The picture was dubbed - "The horse turned out especially well" :)
After the obligatory sightseeing program was completed, we just walked around the city. In cafes under umbrellas they drank drinks, in shops they bought souvenirs (in Zagreb, by the way, the lowest prices for souvenirs, as it turned out later), in shops they bought some small things. We returned home early enough - about eight. We also planned to go out to the nearest establishment for dinner, but we didn’t have enough strength.

DAY 2. TSRIKVENITSA

We woke up at eight. By nine, we gathered unhurriedly, drank some tea, left our keys on the fridge and drove off towards the coast.
Driving around Zagreb is not easy even if you have a map - there are a lot of one-way streets. Somehow we left in the direction we needed. But the difficulties did not end there either. We drove strictly according to the signs with the number of the Zagreb-Rijeka autobahn we needed. We arrived at a fork in the road with two turns to the left. The sign hangs between these bends - on the bridge. We decided that our turn is the second, since it is located behind the pointer. They turned up. Almost immediately we realized that we were wrong. But in order to return, I had to make a huge detour in km 30 :) There was no exit anywhere.
Autobahn Zagreb-Rijeka costs 56 kuna (about 8 euros). Today is Saturday and it is busy enough. We drive through many tunnels. In some places, the construction of a road or a tunnel continues, but everything is organized so clearly and correctly that it practically does not interfere with traffic. The ride is easy and fun. The sun is shining, vacation is ahead, today we will swim in the sea :)
From that moment on, all gas stations in Croatia, Bosnia (on the way to Dubrovnik) and Hungary (on the way back to Ukraine) paid for gas only with a plastic card. Convenient, fast and there is no need to exchange money for the currency of another country.
By one o'clock in the afternoon we went down to Rijeka. It is a large port city. We arrived at the very center, but we could not park the car anywhere nearby. There are visible problems with parking in all coastal Croatian cities. Narrow streets, often one-way, are often lined with small cars. In general, we somehow immediately realized that our car did not fit into Croatian standards either in terms of gasoline consumption or dimensions :) Here the most common car brands are Peugeot 206, Opel Corsa, Ford Fiesta, and so on. Both men and women ride them, while in our country they are considered exclusively "female" models.
Parked far enough from the center. We walked down to the embankment and had lunch at one of the lunch bar. While we were waiting for the order, we looked through the guidebook and saw that we were not far from the market. After lunch we went there. We bought an insane amount of fruit at the market, missing the apples of the new crop, apricots, which we did not have when we left, nectarines-peaches.
We left Rijeka and continue along the coast, hoping to find a place where we can stay for a couple of days. Soon we saw a signpost for the town of Crikvenica, and I remembered two stories I met on the Internet with the mention of this town. Since we were, by and large, no matter where to stop, we turned to him.
We drove off the highway to the very bottom of the town, to the sea. And then we saw a sign with the inscription Sobe / Apartment - 50 m. We walk these 50 meters in the indicated direction to a three-story white villa with lush pink flowers in pots. There is a woman on one of the balconies, and we ask her if there are any vacant rooms or apartments. She replies that there is both. Apartments for 40 euros per night, a room for 22 euros. We inspect the room and instantly agree to live here for the next three days, having agreed with the hostess about a price of 20 euros per night plus 3.5 euros for breakfast. The room is spacious enough. It has a large double bed, an additional sofa, bedside tables, wardrobes. The room is half-dark, but when the hostess opens the dark wooden blinds, we see a large French window, and behind it is a long spacious balcony with table and chairs. All the windows of the villa face the sea, but we cannot see it because of the greenery - we are on the first floor. True, for us with our plan of movement along the coast, this is not important. The car was parked under the house.
They did not unpack their things. Hastily changed into swimming trunks / swimsuit and went to the beach. The beach is really no more than 50 meters. The beach is a small cove, not a long coastal strip. Rocky. There are not many people. The sea is clean, transparent and very salty! There are many pine trees on the shore, the air is thick and pleasant. I'm starting to like it here. Pashka grumbles: "Typically Crimean landscape ... And was it worth it to do this way?" :)
We sunbathed for a short time, then moved into the shade under the pine trees. There the babies fell asleep and slept for two hours. With difficulty pulled themselves out of nirvana and trudged home :)
After showering and changing clothes, we moved into the city. The first positive impressions are reinforced by what you see now. Neat white villas, bright pink flowers on the balconies, narrow winding streets, turquoise sea, white yachts ... This is how Croatia seemed to me :) If we were planning to lead a more sedentary lifestyle, I would have stayed here without a shadow of a doubt.
There are practically no people in June - not the season. All the tables in the cafe are empty, the houses have Sobe / Apartmani / Zimmer / Room signs. They all mean the same thing - free housing. We sit down in an empty cafe for dinner, and the owner of the establishment serves us personally.
Croatian cuisine is not varied. Usually the menu is quite limited: grilled meat / fish / seafood, french fries or rice as a side dish, fresh salad. But we used to eat like this in South-East Asia, and we do not experience any discomfort from the absence of complex salads or gourmet dishes. The menu also includes the unchanged pasta and pizza (we have not tried it). Among other things, the husband is on a diet, so he does not drink alcohol. Me too - out of solidarity :) We usually end the meal with tea with lemon or mineral water with lemon. Such a lunch / dinner costs around 25-30 euros. I repeat - no alcohol. However, the portions are huge! As a rule, grilled fish is a rather large carcass of fish, fried whole. And when ordering pork chop, there will be two or three of them in the plate, not one. Of course, I don't eat that much food, and Pasha always gets one and a half servings. What he is incredibly happy about :)
After dinner, we went out to the main street. There are thousands of tables under umbrellas! Each of these open-air cafes has a TV screen showing the World Cup. The people sitting at the tables are watching with interest what is happening on the screen. Back in Zagreb, we noticed the crazy passion of Croatians for football. All shop windows are decorated with football symbols. People walk around in red and white checkered T-shirts and caps. In all cafes, people of all ages follow the development of the game with enthusiasm, no matter which team is playing. It's amazing to see gambling fans not with a bottle or a glass of beer, but with ice cream or a cup of coffee :) The girls also show a keen interest in the game.
While Pasha stuck to the screen, I walked through the souvenir shops, stuck my nose into the nearest pastry shop. We returned to our place about eleven along the sea. No, the first impression was not deceiving. I definitely love it here!

DAY 3. ISTRIAN PENINSULA

I woke up with a strange feeling of absolute peace and happiness. Daylight with oblique rays penetrates through the slightly open blinds into the room, because of the wide open balcony door, the air is filled with the smells of the sea breeze and pine forest, silence. Such peace is rarely found on vacation. At this time, on the South Coast of the Crimea, children can already hear the hubbub, the clink of dishes, the rustling of a frying pan with breakfast ...
We had breakfast on the balcony at a table served by the hostess. We did not stay too long - today we have plans to explore the Istrian Peninsula.
In Rijeka, they strayed again for a long time. Even with a map and very informative signs, driving is not at all easy. We drove, drove along the signs, and suddenly they disappeared :) It turns out that we had to go on a different road :) Finally we got out of the city. But when we entered the peninsula we got a little lost again :) Pasha in emotional terms tells how unlucky he was with the navigator :) I can only mumble that “I'm not guilty ...” (c) :)
In the depths of the peninsula, we pass through the longest of the tunnels we have met - 5 km. It is paid - 28 kn one way. In addition, there are many bridges on the peninsula. Some of them are also striking in their length and grandeur.
Finally we arrived in Pula. It is located in the very south of the peninsula. We just went down from the upper road down to the city and immediately stumbled upon an amphitheater. “This is what we came here for,” I say to my husband, who didn’t bother to ask why we are here.
The Roman amphitheater Colosseum is striking in its size! It is the largest outside Italy and one of the five largest surviving structures of the Roman Empire. Accommodates 23 thousand people. Part of the stage has been restored and festivals are held there in summer. When we were there, posters of Jose Carreras's arrival at the Colosseum hung everywhere.
We park the car right next to the amphitheater. Today is Sunday, and on Sunday, according to the signs, parking is free. We pay for the entrance to the Colosseum for 20 kn and go inside. You can also take an audio guide in Russian from the ticket offices, but we didn’t.
Usually, sights of this magnitude always have crowds of people. Countless buses arrive, many excursion groups lead. Surprisingly, here with us two or three more people are exploring the Colosseum ... Advantages of the “low season” :)
We climb the ruins for a long time, take pictures of this gigantic structure, read the historical data about it in the guidebook. Then we went down to the basement room. A small museum with finds is organized here.
After the Colosseum, we walked close to the ancient city gates. Pay attention to the desertedness of the streets. I photograph hundreds of tables of working cafes in the streets, at which not a single person is sitting. And again we repeat to ourselves - not the season.
We quickly got tired of the sweltering heat. But the place in the city where you can swim was not found :) Continuous port and marina. On the way, we met a market. Again we cannot pass by and we buy ourselves a large number of fruit.
The husband begins to be capricious. He does not want to go further, insists on returning home. I try to convince him and use an obscene word: “Well, think for yourself - we propiz ... are there so many kilometers. So what? Shall we sit at home and read books? " And suddenly the only people on the street walking in front of us turn around and start laughing: “Where are the books? We have not found a single one here in Russian. We are dying of boredom. " They turned out to be Russians :))) And we once again thought how different people have rest. 10 days for Croatia is not enough for us, and someone yawns from boredom :)
In general, Pasha agrees to go to Porech. Rovinj, which was also planned, had to be deleted from the list :)
To Porec another 50 km, which we covered without incident. We entered the city with the firm intention to swim first, because the heat completely tortured us. We can see the beach aside, but on foot to it we scratch and scratch, and we have already parked the car - with great, as usual, difficulty. We are located on a stone embankment, and immediately behind it, behind a massive wall, is the old town. And suddenly Pasha saw such and such desperate tourists swimming right from the embankment. Of course, this served as a signal for my husband to act, and in two minutes we were already descending from the stone slabs into the water, having previously changed into a swimsuit and swimming trunks right here, “without leaving the cash register” :)
The famous Euphrasian Basilica is located in Poreč. This is one of the six monuments of Croatia, included by UNESCO in the list of the world cultural heritage... The cathedral was built in the 6th century. It's very beautiful inside. Ancient mosaics and frescoes have been preserved in some places.
Pasha immediately found out that the tower of the cathedral could also be climbed, and dragged me upstairs. The city is small - all at a glance. Combined with blue sea and seagulls on red tiled roofs.
After visiting the main attraction, we just walk around the city and get great pleasure from it. Stone-paved narrow streets, quaint window openings of century-old houses, wooden shutters with obscenely exuberant flowers in pots, tiny tables of empty cafes ...
There are many Russian-speaking tourists.
We had lunch in a cafe with delicious risotto and fresh salad and drove home to Crikvenica.

DAY 4. KRK ISLAND

Islands are located along the entire coast of Croatia. The most different - hilly, gentle, green, rocky. From their presence there is no feeling that you are on the sea - land on all sides :) All large islands are inhabited. There are cities, resorts, beaches, marinas on them - in general, everything is the same as on the very coast of Croatia. One day we decided to go to the island of Krk.
Krk Island is located very close to Crikvenica. It connects to the mainland of Croatia big bridge... The entrance is paid - 30 kn.
We went straight to the capital of the island - the city of the same name, Krk. And then immediately go to the beach to swim in the sea after the heat of the road. We drove away from the city center and found ourselves on a quiet street. On one side, white two- and three-storey cottages, surrounded by bright vegetation, stretch to the sea. On each of them there are familiar signs about the delivery of housing. On the other hand, right among the pine trees, there is an auto camping. There are cars with tents, tents and tables stretched to them. We park the car in the shade, change into a swimsuit / swimming trunks right there and walk to the sea. A marvelous view awaited us on the beach - at last we see the open sea, and to the side we can see the city of Krk with neat medieval houses, invariable tiled roofs over which a tower with a round dome rises.
While I'm settling on the beach, Pasha has time to swim. He comes out of the water suspiciously quickly with the words: "Now I understand why it is not the season in Croatia in June!" I walk ankle-deep into the water and I think I also understand what he meant. The water is noticeably cold, despite the fact that the air is 32 degrees. Up to this point, we swam in the Kvarner Bay, the water there is much warmer. Here, on the island, she, most likely, is what she should be in the Adriatic Sea in June. Nevertheless, we swim, sunbathe for an unusually long time and even sleep in the shade under the pine trees. We are in no hurry.
After a couple of hours we returned to the car, changed our clothes and went on foot to the city center. According to the guidebook, there are some sights here too, but we didn't look at them. I just wanted to walk along the streets, lazily inspecting buildings along the way, defensive structures overlooking the embankment, yachts.
On the embankment we sat down to have lunch in one of the restaurants. And again they became victims of huge portions. Pasha was brought three (!) Chops on the bone for one serving, me - two large tuna steaks. Without exaggeration, I can say that we would have been completely full if we ordered only one of these dishes. But there was also a side dish, salad and ... terribly delicious bread :)
After a hearty lunch and heat, I didn't really want to go anywhere else. But the idea of ​​returning home in the midst of the heat was also not the best one. It was decided to stop by in the city of Baska on the same island.
Baska turned out to be a typical resort town with a beach where an apple has nowhere to fall. We were frightened by so many people and moved away. There were fewer people here, but also decent. Along the coast goes long embankment, just below a narrow strip of beach. Directly to the beach there is a row of houses standing close to each other, in the apartments of which people live and vacationers rent housing. Great housing! In one of the gateways, we changed into a swimsuit / swimming trunks again and took a dip. However, they did not get much pleasure on the crowded beach.
We sat down in a cafe, drank a cup of coffee and drove back. On the highway, we bought marigold honey for relatives as a souvenir - it is excellent here!
The houses paid off the hostess for housing (74 euros for 3 nights and 2 days of breakfast) and went to the evening promenade in the center of Crikvenica. Before they had time to take a dozen steps, Pasha, gluing to the TV screen in a nearby cafe, grabbed his head and shouted: “Julia, I completely forgot! Today Ukraine is playing with Switzerland !!! " And grabbing my hand, he dragged me to the main street to watch the match. Here, among the many spectators, we were the only Ukrainian fans. Two Russian-speaking guys, who live in Germany, but nevertheless, are rooting for Ukraine, happened to be next to us. The four of us emotionally experienced all the acute moments of the match, attracting the attention of others. And when they scored a penalty, they yelled all over the street, no longer embarrassed about anyone :)

DAY 5. ZADAR, KASHTELA

Today we leave the northern part of the coast and move to the central one. To the city of Zadar. Therefore, we got up early, at six in the morning, collected all our things, said goodbye to the hospitable hostess and left.
Initially, along the way, you meet the same resort towns and villages as Crikvenica, but outside the town of Senj begins the virgin coast. The mountains here almost come close to the sea, forming cozy coves, which, however, are inaccessible because of stones and rocks. The bright blue transparent sea and green islands in the distance accompany us all the way. The magnificent views are breathtaking! However, the narrow serpentine road with one lane in each direction does not leave us a chance to stop even for a couple of minutes and capture these beauties on a camera. At that moment, I realized that Croatia deservedly enjoys a reputation for being very beautiful country from the point of view of nature.
Occasionally, here and there, there are lonely houses, quite decent looking, with invariable Zimmer / Room / Apartmant signs. For lovers of solitude - the perfect place!
In one place we stopped to swim. With great difficulty we went down the stones to the sea, undressed and ... did not dare to swim. All the bottom is strewn sea ​​urchins... Although we bought special slippers for swimming with solid soles, they were left in the car upstairs.
Zadar turned out to be a big city with new buildings, car showrooms and hypermarkets. The old part is located on a peninsula that goes into the sea, and is surrounded by stone walls. Outside the walls by the sea is a large port with ferries, boats, yachts. We had no chance to park here. We enter one of the gates of the old city and hardly park at the very wall, millimeters from other cars. We had lunch in one of the restaurants.
Armed with a guidebook, we go sightseeing. The first thing we did was what? Right! We climbed on the most high tower:) The tower is 56 meters high, and a narrow iron spiral staircase leads upstairs. It was scary! I crawled on bent legs, shuddering with every swing of the stairs. She cursed and shook, but did not change her mind to climb. Upstairs is also uncomfortable. But beautiful! :)
Somehow we went downstairs. Near the tower we inspect the Cathedral of St. Donatus. And next to it is the ancient Roman forum, which is still being excavated. The sun beats down mercilessly. We save ourselves only on narrow streets where you can catch your breath in the shade. Then we visit the Romanesque Basilica of St. Anastasia, built in the 13th century. It's very beautiful inside! And then we indulge in our favorite pastime of wandering the streets of an unfamiliar city, combining inspection beautiful places with visiting shops, which are visible and invisible here.
We spent about three hours here and decided not to stay any longer, although initially I planned to spend the night in Zadar. But since we had not previously booked accommodation, nothing prevented our plans to change. That's why I love so much independent travel with a flexible schedule!
Even before the trip, my husband wrote to a couple of guys on the Internet who were interested in Croatia. We didn’t manage to go together, because the guys did not have time to get themselves visas under our program. Therefore, they went to an ordinary travel agency and bought themselves vouchers. In general, we ended up in Croatia almost at the same time. Naturally, having arrived at the place, we phoned and agreed that we would call on them on the way. They rested between Trogir and Split in a place called Kastela. They had at their disposal a two-room apartment with a kitchen, one of the rooms in which was empty. We were offered to spend the night there, and we gladly accepted the offer. In general, from Zadar we went straight to Kastela.
Approaching Kastela, we stopped recognizing Croatia :) From all sides we were surrounded by Crimea in its worst manifestation. No landscapes, no inviting villas, no clear blue sea. “Don't jump to conclusions,” my husband said edifyingly to me. But the arrival at the place did not change the impression. The sea is muddy, the villas are shabby, not the first freshness, the beach is polluted and crowded. Nothing to do with the Croatia that we have admired all the previous days.
We met the guys - Zhenya and Lena. The guys turned out to be sociable and absolutely adequate. They themselves understood that they had not been slipped what they had hoped for. Fortunately, they were not taken aback, rented a moped (in Croatia for some reason it is called a scooter) and traveled quite a lot themselves, finding deserted beaches.
The apartment in which Zhenya and Lena lived turned out to be quite good, in my opinion. Although the villa itself knew and better times but inside everything was arranged well. The only thing we laughed at was the arrangement of the rooms. The first has a kitchen and, for some reason, a double bed. The second has two separate beds. It would be logical to move the bedroom to the second room :) We got the second room in which we settled.
Dinner was prepared by ourselves in the kitchen from products purchased from the supermarket. Late in the evening they went out to the sea and chatted there, looking at the dark water and the distant lights of Split. From the kaleidoscope of rapidly changing cities, places of residence, beaches, I have already managed to forget such unusually calm and homey evenings :)

DAY 6. SPLIT

According to the previously developed plan of our trip, Split is on the agenda today. The guys expressed a desire to come with us. And in the evening we all go back to Kastela together. Fortunately, it is very close to Split.
But first we need to stop by Trogir. It was there that the guys rented a moped, and now it needs to be returned. We did not visit Trogir itself, we limited ourselves to a view from the embankment.
After everything was settled, we decided to go to the beach for a swim. The guys promised to show us one of the beaches that they found during their independent travel... We drove away from Trogir, but somewhere we turned the wrong way and ended up in a completely unfamiliar place. Some kind of small village. Pasha decided to drop into it and limit himself to swimming here.
We parked the car. Around - some villas! White houses are buried in greenery and huge bushes with pink flowers. Complement the landscape bright sun and the turquoise sea at the bottom of the street. After two dozen steps we found ourselves by the sea. There is no beach in our understanding. Huge boulders go into the water. But they are more or less adapted for beach holiday... In some places, flat platforms are made on the stones, on which it is convenient to sit with a towel or even a chaise longue, and the entrance to the sea is facilitated by ladders like in a pool. There are almost no people, only somewhere in the distance. It is deep here at once. The boys and Lena jump straight into the water, but I can't swim, so I go down the steps. The water is once again striking in its blue and transparency! It's so cool and clean here that lying in the sun seems like blasphemy. We don't get out of the water. It was the most beautiful Adriatic Sea that we have seen during the trip!
We arrived in Split. We drove through the narrow streets in search of parking, finally parked the car.
Split is an interesting city, first of all, thanks to Diocletian's palace. Remember the parable about the emperor, who retired and settled in the village, and when a messenger was sent to him from the reigning emperor with a request to return to the throne, he replied: "Better the emperor see what kind of cabbage I have grown!"? So, it is he - Diocletian, who built a palace in Split.
The palace is a whole square city block. In the old days, it was the place where the emperor and the nobility lived. And then gradually local residents began to move there, completing their small rooms near the ancient walls. They still live there. Right within these historic walls. And a kind business card Split is linen, hung on clotheslines in courtyards and streets right above the heads of tourists :) We saw it everywhere. Maybe residents never take it off to maintain their image? :)
The walls of the palace were entered through the northern entrance. Near it stands a tall bronze statue of the religious preacher Grgur of Ninsky. His huge feet are visible from under the dress. And the big toe shines in the sun from the numerous touches of tourists. They say for good luck :)
We had lunch at the Grgur restaurant of the same name right next to the entrance and went to the center of the palace. On central square located Cathedral and a bell tower. We went there first of all :) I thought that the stairs in Zadar could not be worse. It turned out, maybe - in Split. From the bottom to the upper "floor" there are high stone steps, as in the Cambodian temples of Ankor. And then - my "favorite" narrow iron spiral staircase, which vibrates unpleasantly from the steps of my and my companions. It rises higher and higher, and under you is space for flight :) Brrrrr ... But the view compensates for the trembling in the knees and chill in the chest :)
After the tower we entered the cathedral. It is strictly forbidden to shoot with a photo and video camera inside, but it's a pity! Very nice! Previously, the cathedral served as a mausoleum for Diocletian and his wife, however, over time, the sarcophagus was destroyed. Valuables of the cathedral are on display in the storage. For example, the Gospel 580-600. with leather pages. The inspection was interesting to us.
In addition, on the main square there is the entrance to the Lobby - a stone room with an open vault. And under it are wide basements, where the Sea Gate leads. Now there are numerous souvenir shops. Through these gates we go out to the embankment.
Then we wander for a long time through the narrow streets of Split. The white stones of the pavements are polished to a shine by the feet of tourists. We go on the way to other temples - Jupiter, for example. We sit under umbrellas in a cafe. We look into the shops we meet.
On the way back we stopped at a supermarket. At home they cooked trout and fresh salad, dined and, tired, went to bed.

DAY 7. DUBROVNIK

The last two days in Croatia have been the most intense experiences. And, probably, this is correct, although we did not take it into account when planning our route. Our impressions of this country increased from day to day and ended in absolute delight.
We left Kastela at about seven in the morning. The road to Dubrovnik goes along the coast almost everywhere and is a rather narrow and winding serpentine. Having become accustomed to high-speed driving on the Autobahns, it was not easy to reorganize into a jam of buses and other cars. For 70 km from Dubrovnik there is a piece of territory that belongs to Bosnia. Its length along the coast is quite short. The only Bosnian town on the Neum Sea is located here. The Croats and the Bosnians have an agreement to freely let the Croatian and touring cars on the border. But in order to cross it, you need a passport. In our passports they compared photographs with our faces, and also checked the availability of Croatian visas. A lazy customs officer, sitting aside, looked at our numbers for a long time, then his face lit up and he shouted: “Oh! Shevchenko! ”:) Recent football matches were not in vain :)
In Bosnia, the price of gasoline is 25-30% lower. Therefore, on the way back, we refueled using a plastic card for the calculation.
Having driven away from Bosnia, we stopped in a picturesque place, went down the stones to the sea and bathed. Sea urchins here at the bottom - apparently invisible! We look at them closely with interest. They went swimming in special slippers, which supposedly protect the feet from needles. But when Pasha, inadvertently, stepped on the hedgehog, the tips of the needles, passing through the sole, remained in his leg. They were removed with tweezers, and now we show them to the guests that are stuck in the soles of the slippers :)
We drove into Dubrovnik at about one in the afternoon. And they immediately began to look for housing. This was the main mistake. Then, after inspection, at about 7 pm, we now and then came across women inviting to their place for the night. Alas, we no longer needed it. By this time, we had already settled in a disgusting Crimean-style apartment for 200 kuna per night. Only the view from the terrace to the Old city, which was at the bottom in full view. However, it is not a problem to find good housing for reasonable money. In the absence of a tired and growling husband :)
We got to the Old Town in the sunshine. It's unbearably hot to walk on it! While the point is yes, we sat down at a table of a vending restaurant, located in a narrow street between the stone walls of houses. It seemed that only Russians were sitting at the tables :) You can hear Russian speech from everywhere. After lunch, we went to inspect the city.
Dubrovnik is rightly considered the pearl of Croatia. We absolutely agree with this statement. He charmed us from the first minutes of our stay in it!
Dubrovnik is a completely unique city, which in the old days was the most important port of the Adriatic, the center of shipbuilding and trade. For many centuries he managed to maintain independence from the states that conquered their neighbors. They acted by cunning, ransom, diplomacy. The Republic of Dubrovnik had its own government, prince, Senate, laws, Constitution.
The old part of the city, surrounded by stone walls, is located in a ravine. The main street of Dubrovnik, Stradun, runs along its bottom. And from it the streets run perpendicularly up the hill to the city walls. Often these streets consist of only steps! On main street crowded. Countless souvenir shops line both sides. Nearby cafes opened their large umbrellas right on the street. An endless stream of people goes back and forth. The audience is insanely motley. These are groups of Japanese tourists in headphones, and European hippies with well-worn backpacks and bedding, and decorous Europeans, and restless Russians. I enjoy photographing an American child wearing only shorts. He eats ice cream, and it slowly drips onto his stomach, where a solid puddle has already formed :) Dad is watching this indifferently, and when Mom leaves the store, she just exclaims with a smile: “O! You have your ice-cream all over! ":)
Almost immediately we were lucky to meet a Russian-language excursion. And what a guide! With a person who loves his job and cares for its quality! We listened to the tour from start to finish and were very pleased. We visited the Franciscan monastery, the Church of St. Blaus, and the Cathedral. Refreshed at the Bolshoi and Maly fountains. We visited one of the oldest pharmacies in Europe (13th century), which is still used for its intended purpose. We entered the Sponza Palace - one of the most beautiful buildings Dubrovnik. It housed customs, a mint. Now in one of the premises there is a memorial exhibition in memory of those who died during the defense of Dubrovnik in the 1990s. Then Dubrovnik suffered greatly from the bombing. Photographs from that time showing the ruins on the big screen have nothing to do with what can be seen today. Only the new tiles on the roofs betray the fact of the painstaking restoration of the city from the consequences of the war.
The palace of the prince is also interesting. The prince in the Republic of Dubrovnik was elected for only a month. During this month, he lived alone in the palace and had no right to leave it, so that nothing would distract him from state thoughts :)
While exploring Dubrovnik, you can climb its city wall and walk along the perimeter. For some reason we didn’t.
We gradually leave the walls of the Old City and head towards the sea along its outer walls. The place here is not very suitable for swimming, but many swim. We, of course, were among them :) It is deep here, but steps with handrails lead into the water, like in a pool. Swim at the walls of the fort.
Our companions went to the beach, and Pasha and I are returning to the Old Town. Now we have left the central parts of it and explore the farthest nooks. On the way, we wander into typical "Odessa" courtyards, the inhabitants of which are themselves living sights, no worse than the houses in which they live :) Shamelessly we look into the windows of tiny apartments. One of them is currently being renovated. The ceilings are 2 meters high :) Pasha would definitely catch his head :)
A door was found in one of the walls facing the sea. And behind it is the area of ​​the cafe, nestled right on the outer side of the wall. Sitting at a table, you can watch the best panorama of Dubrovnik!
We left the city through the opposite gates and went up the city. We photographed the Old Town from a distance, walked along the city streets. And returned again. The third time. Pulls us here with a magnet! Now it's dusk.
With the onset of darkness, the city is transformed. Lanterns gradually turn on in the streets. Summer cafes with umbrellas are turning into prim restaurants with an equally prim audience. Buildings already familiar to us from day excursion, look, thanks to the clever backlighting, completely different.
Suddenly we heard the sounds of a bugle and marching footsteps. Guards dressed in suits walk along the main street. They come to each of the gates and leave two on guard :) Then a couple of knights who came out to the main square and played, to the delight of tourists, a scene with a battle with maces, attracted our attention. As a reward, the winner was sent the smile of a beautiful young lady in a dress corresponding to that time. These are local artists who entertain visitors every summer evening.
We bought the latest souvenirs in souvenir shops. It's time to go to bed.
We dined outside the walls of the Old City. I took, probably, the thousandth photograph of the Old City. The last time - illuminated by a thousand searchlights in complete darkness.

DAY 8. PLITVICE LAKES

We left Dubrovnik at the beginning of the seventh morning. At the Bosnian border, no one stopped or checked us. There was no one there at that time :)
A familiar road goes to Split. Before reaching the city itself, we stopped in some place and plunged into the Adriatic Sea for the last time. The beach this time was sandy and the sea was shallow. Now we turn onto the autobahn, which takes us away from the coast inland. This fact is sad.
This autobahn is not yet on our map, purchased in Kiev. But navigating the signs is very easy. The only thing that annoys me is constantly sleepy :) I have to stop at gas stations and drink coffee.
The coast sees us off with the already familiar 33 degrees of heat. But as soon as we drove into the mountains, the car computer showed a gradual decrease in temperature overboard. First, clouds appeared in the sky, then clouds. When approaching the park itself, the temperature dropped to 19 degrees. And when we got out of the car at the gas station, we were frankly frozen. Fortunately, we have all our things with us, because then we go home, so we quickly change shorts for jeans and take raglans with us in our backpacks. They say that such a temperature difference between the coast and the park is a common thing. To avoid freezing, it is recommended to have warm clothes with you.
Before entering the park, the information office learned the bus schedule to Split, because our friends need to return to Kastela in the evening. The girl told us the time, adding that the bus needs to be braked by hand and pay the fare directly to the driver.
Plitvice Lakes is a national park, which is a cascade of 16 lakes connected by 92 waterfalls. In 1979, it was included by UNESCO in the list of world natural monuments and is protected by it. The park is the pride of all of Croatia, and although it is located quite far from the coast, it is visited by a huge number of tourists every year.
The park has several entrances. We entered through entrance number one.
The entrance fee to the Plitvice Lakes Park is quite high - 85 kuna. With my student ISIC - 50 kn. There is a huge poster at the entrance with suggested routes for walking through the park. They differ in length and, accordingly, in the time spent on inspection. From the shortest, lasting 2 hours to 7-8 hours. My husband, whom you don’t feed with bread, but let him climb the routes and mountains, immediately decided that the first two of the proposed programs were not interesting for us. We will go on the third, which captures all lakes and waterfalls and lasts from 4 to 6 hours.
To be honest, before entering the park, we were pretty calm about the delights described by the guidebooks. No, we certainly expected that it should be beautiful there, but arrogantly considered ourselves sophisticated enough tourists to be impressed by some ordinary lakes in the mountains :) The very first panorama that we saw, we were frankly amazed. We are standing on a hill near a deep gorge. Directly opposite us from a great height, noisy waterfalls fall down, and far below, transparent lakes with bright turquoise water glisten in the sun. The guide says that these lakes have a lot of copper salts, which is why the water in them is so unnaturally blue. Until that moment, I had seen such a color of water only in the blue pool of the Nikitsky Botanical Garden.
Our legs themselves carry us down the path, where the next shock awaited us - apparently invisibly fish in the lakes !!! Fish of various sizes swim at the very edge of the water, hoping for treats from tourists. And after you throw them a piece of bread, a real fight begins for him! The next lake dwellers we met are ducks with tiny ducklings. They live their own lives, not paying attention to people. Then we watched a turtle, imposingly swimming among the fish.
Children in the park squeak with delight! They enthusiastically feed the inhabitants of the lakes, watch their life, and leave the park exclusively with a scandal :)
In the park, there are wooden decks along the routes, tourists can only walk on them. We come to the very big waterfall and we are photographed against its background. We saw this from the very beginning.
The first part of the route took 1.5 hours. But while photographing, feeding the fish, climbing into each cave, the time passed completely unnoticed. We went to a large lake. Here we sit on a boat, which takes us to the other side in 20 minutes.
There are much fewer people here. Obviously, most of the visitors are limited to only the first shortest route. And the path marked by our route leads us further into the mountains, past other lakes and many waterfalls. We walk slowly, stopping every minute. I would like to capture every centimeter of this miracle of nature!
Finally came out to the biggest upper lake that feeds all the other lower ones. It is very beautiful and calm here. Of the tourists who have come here, we are the only one.
It is getting dark. We remember the time and do not believe the hands on the clock - we spent 5 hours here and did not notice it :)
Here, at big lake, is the terminal station of the tram. We waited a couple of minutes, got into it, and he drove us to the point from where we started our journey.
We decided unanimously that Plitvice Lakes are the most unforgettable sight that we have seen in Croatia!
We left the park at about eight in the evening, and a few minutes later put our friends on a bus to Split. They themselves got into the car and drove out of the park.
But we drove away from the park quite a bit and stopped at a cafe for dinner. On both sides of the road there are cottages with rented rooms. We have dinner on the veranda of one of these villas. They bring us the most delicious dinner of our entire trip. And Pasha communicates with the waiter exclusively in Croatian :)
A slight digression is required here. The Croatian language has a lot in common with Russian and Ukrainian, because Croats are southern slovens. Many words have a similar sound: good afternoon - "dobar dan", goodbye - "dovidzheniya". You can guess the meaning of others: currency exchange - "money changer", burn - "opeklina", pork - "pig meat" :) Pashka from the very beginning of the trip was so imbued with the Croatian language that he always walked with a mini-phrasebook, learning more and more phrases. In shops, restaurants and on the streets this resonated so positively in the eyes of the Croats that it only encouraged my husband to study further :)
In general, the dinner on Plitvice Lakes was the apogee of Pasha's knowledge of the Croatian language :) And he was extremely proud of this fact! :)
After a delicious dinner on a pretty terrace, you don't want to go anywhere further. There is such nature, air around! And tomorrow we will have a difficult day of moving to Ukraine, and we want to have a good rest and sleep before that. But Pasha has already "turned on a program called Home" and does not agree to stay here for the night. And then I remember that today Ukraine is playing with Italy! Our plans changed instantly, and we are going to look for an overnight stay :)
It didn't take long to search. In the first cottage we liked, we rented a wonderful room for 100 kn / person (the standard price in those places). She was one of those where I want to stay longer :) While Pasha was screaming from disappointment with the match, I took a shower and breathed the air on the terrace.

The next morning we left this hospitable place before dawn and drove towards the border.

When similar questions about one country are asked more than three times a day, I sit down and write an article so as not to repeat myself.

V Croatia we have been several times, the closest of which is September 2017 and 2018, in the new season we may also stop by on our way to Montenegro. Frequently asked questions about Croatia - weather, how much does it cost vacation in Croatia how to relax, so that near the sea, cheap and uncrowded, there was even a wish about a volleyball court nearby. I'm not sure about the volleyball court, but with the rest everything is less clear and will work out - I'm sure. About your croatian top best places I'll also tell you.

Visa for Croatia

For citizens of Ukraine visa to Croatia need not, Russians and Belarusians need to get Croatian national visa- as far as I know, this does not pose any serious problems and is resolved on its own.

Those who have a multiple-entry Schengen visa do not need to obtain a Croatian visa. Multishengen gives the right to travel to Croatia, since although it is not part of the Schengen zone, it is a member of the European Union.

What is the currency in Croatia and where to change money

The local currency is Kuna, the rate to the Euro is 1 Euro = 7.39 kuna

Cards are accepted almost everywhere, it is better to have money in a cash / card ratio 1: 3. Basic payments are made from the card. Apartments can only accept Kuna or Euro cash.

There are enough exchange offices both on the coast and in cities.

Way of travel to Croatia

There are no convenient and cheap flights from Ukraine to Croatia, even with a transfer.

There are two ways out of this "problem".

For those who are lazy or not comfortable to steer for a long time and because car in Croatia you still need it, you can buy cheap flights to Budapest... Today it can be done for 40-50 euros round trip. In Budapest, rent a car and travel further by car.

The second way, and I like it more, is to drive my car, it is 1900 km. if you go from Kiev to Split... In this case, we "lose" the day on the way, but we go through picturesque Carpathians , you can stop at Lviv and at least beautiful Budapest ... Family vacations are cheaper than renting a car and more freedom.

If from your city there is direct flights to Split or a convenient transfer, then it is better to fly to Split and there either by bus to the chosen place of rest (worse) or rent a car (better) and continue the journey autonomously and comfortably.

How to choose a resort in Croatia

Here I could say that Google will help, because in Croatia there are a lot of resorts and places for recreation for every taste and budget. For several trips to this country, we have visited no less than twenty places and a dozen islands, and this is still minuscule in comparison with what is in this country. I advise only from where I was and, by the way, on my first trip I also listened to the advice and did not regret it.

This is the sea, so we choose resorts on the coast, and we will go on an excursion to the mountains and lakes, below I will tell you where.

When choosing a place for a seaside holiday for myself, I distinguish north of Croatia- this is Istrian peninsula(Rovinj, Pula, Rijeka and surrounding villages) and Dolmatia- everything to the south (below on the map) from the city of Split up to Dubrovnik. A separate line goes croatian islands... On the islands, holidays are a little more expensive and not always better. I'll tell you about the islands too.

There is more history in the north and less sea and beaches, in the south there is more sea and less history - but there are Split and Dubrovnik. Both have wonderful little towns and beaches, just in different proportions. Again, in my humble opinion.

Sometimes the richness of the choice of a place to stay makes it difficult to choose this very place. That is, when there are too many locations, about which little is known to the beginner. Here is exactly that country.

So if you are going to Croatia for the first time, let me recommend you South Dolmatia, namely Makarska Riviera - so that you probably like it. Here you can choose from small resort towns - Makarska, Podgora, Baska Voda, Brela, Omis... Omis is a specific place, because here the river flows into the sea and sea water mixes with fresh water, but there are sandy beaches and a generally nice town, besides, not far from Split.

What are the beaches in Croatia

V Croatia one of best beaches in Europe and the sea, which can only compete with Greece.

Majority beaches of Croatia finely pebbled, often the pebbles are so small that they look like coarse sand, for example Bol beach (island Brac)... There are places with sandy beaches, for example in the area Omis city- on the coast of Dolmatia near Split.

The pebbles are small and pleasant, that is, they are not at all the same as in Nice or, for example, in the Crimea. Swimming, however, is better in slippers - there are places with sea urchins. I don’t use slippers for swimming, you can see everything. The water is so transparent that it is scary to swim in it - it seems that you are hanging high in the air.

Seasons in Croatia, weather

Oddly enough, given the fact that Croatia is located in the south of Europe, the full beach-sea season begins only at the end of June. During this period, the water temperature is slightly more than 20 degrees (sometimes lower). I remember our sailing trip on the Adriatic at the end of June - I did not want to swim for a long time and often, in the evening it was noticeably cool, although there is no need for a year.

The most comfortable water and air temperature - July August, at the same time the maximum number of people and the maximum prices. We will also talk about prices below. Little life hack - it's better to go to vacation in Croatia v end of August with transition to September At this time, people are moving in the opposite direction - they return home from the resorts and you can find a comfortable atmosphere when it is still warm and there are already fewer people (but still quite a lot).

V september gradually it becomes cooler - the air is up to + 25-28, the water is as warm as in August, up to +28. At the end of September, it may rain, the water is still very "bathing" - up to +22 at least, the air is about the same. The bonus is the perfect minimum of people, while all establishments are working.

My choice of the season in Croatia - beginning of September... Pleasant housing prices, warmth and a minimum of people.

Just travel Croatia possible in any season, all year round.

Top 5 places worth visiting in Croatia

In Croatia, you can choose a place by randomly looking at the map and most likely you will not be mistaken - each town or piece of the coast, in its own way, is interesting and comfortable for rest. But, of course, there are top five places worth visiting.

Much has already been written and rewritten on this topic, but often these are travel sites that copy materials from each other or simply make a composite hodgepodge of several articles.

When choosing places for excursions, I would be guided by where you are going to rest, in which part of Croatia.

If you are planning a vacation on Istrian peninsula- then surely such cities as Pula, Rovinj, Porec and Rijeka... Generally in Istria beautiful coast, picturesque coves surrounded by Croatian pine trees. Plus add the first two places here from the Top 5 below, they are available from Istria as well.

If you chose Dolmatia for recreation - that is, everything south of Split, then the TOP-5 places may look something like this:

  • Plitvice Lakes

If you go by car - it's on the road, it is worth making a stop there and even spending the night;

  • KRK National Park, not to be confused with KRK Island

In the KRK park, the lakes are similar to Plitvice lakes, but you can swim in them. If there is no desire to go there and there - choose one thing, both places are equally worthy. I would still choose the KRK National Park;

  • Dubrovnik

The city is of course overcrowded with tourists and in summer it is the most complete hell, but I can not advise it. Dubrovnik is beautiful, try to get there in the early morning or during the low season, in September, for example;

  • Biokovo National Park

It's in the mountains, the most high peak Croatia (if I'm not mistaken) - Mount St. Jura. But it's not even about the numbers above sea level, it's unusually beautiful there at sunset, plus a view of the islands and the Adriatic coast. It is very close to Makarska, but the road is a serpentine road, and it is also quite narrow - you just need to drive carefully and there will be no problems.

  • Highway along the Adriatic Sea

The road from Split to Durovnik is along the sea, not to be confused with the autobahn, which runs along the top in the mountains. This is one of the most beautiful roads in Europe and in the world through which I drove. Be sure to ride along it along the sea - you will want to make stops every five minutes. Plan on this road for at least three hours from Split to Dubrovnik, including stops.

What a driver needs to know in Croatia

How to travel through Hungary by car and generally travel around Hungary, I already.

V Croatia eat like toll roads and free. On the autobahns go pretty fast and they are needed to get from point A to point B. For example, on the way back or forth from Ukraine or Hungary.

Most even minor roads in Croatia excellent quality, no worse than Austrian or German, sometimes better.

Autobahns in Croatia expensive, it's because of the tunnels and mountainous terrain. But they are extraordinarily beautiful.

Autobahns are paid by card or cash in Euro or local currency - Kuna. For example, there are several payment points on the way from Budapest. We just drive up to the payment point and stretch the card or cash through the window, before entering the payment point, pay attention to the signs above - we need the row on which the little man is drawn in the window. Even if you miss, they will let you through, the people here are nice.

Total for travel through the territory of Croatia if you go from Budapest to Split, you will need about 40 Euro, the same amount back.

  • Split for a short time, but you can also skip it because it is too noisy, big and partying, or combine it with a trip to the islands;
  • Zadar is history and it's nice to walk
  • Trogir is very beautiful and ancient
  • Milna, town and marina on the island of Hvar
  • Old town - island of Hvar
  • The town of Hvar on the eponymous island of Hvar


Do not recommend
spend time on Zagreb, an ordinary European city, if you have been in many places in Europe - feel free to drive on.

I do not recommend buying into tourist brochures and going to Golden Horn beach near Bol town on the island of Brac - it is beautiful only from the altitude of a quadcopter, otherwise the most ordinary beach with an insane number of people. We approached him from the sea, there was an opportunity to evaluate and quickly escape to the yacht (photo below).

TOP 5 Croatian islands

Croatian islands- a separate topic and have already been written on them. I will only list those islands that I really liked and to which I would like to return.

Many islands can be reached by ferry from Split, or by your own car. You can buy ferry tickets at the ticket office on the pier - this is the center of Split, near the embankment.

  • Hvar Island- a self-sufficient place and how seaside resort and how to walk-see
  • Mljet Island, untouched nature, forests and vineyards. The complete opposite of tourist Dubrovnik and an oasis of tranquility
  • Island of vis- a small island a little further than the island of Hvar, it is also accessible by ferry from Split; very cute and beautiful - amusing enough to spend a whole day here. We even rented a car here - for three hours, using our hourly car rental for the first time;
  • Korcula island, located just opposite Makarska Riviera, you can get there by ferries from Split and Dubrovnik. Many secluded and uncrowded bays and beaches, nature and ancient stone towns.
  • Brac Island, just don't go to Golden Horn beach Is a common marketing product with crowds of tourists. It was not crowded even in mid-June, that in August I would rather not tell; Recommend Milna town on the coast is a really beautiful place.


How to save on vacation in Croatia

Germans did Croatia expensive resort in a fairly short time. I felt the evolution of prices for myself, having rest there in different years.

It is really beautiful and varied there, and the Germans know a lot about good places for beach and sea holidays, preferring Greece and Croatia to other Mediterranean countries.

You can reduce the cost of rest like this:

  • Drive your car or rent a car by a company;
  • Instead of hotels, choose apartments on the beach with a kitchen and other options; in some apartments, the price even includes sun loungers and other paid little things;
  • Cooking yourself or combining lunch in a restaurant on the beach with a terrace by the house by the sea, I even find it difficult to say which is better
  • Go to rest in the low season - June or September, at this time vacation in Croatia will be no more expensive or cheaper than the Black Sea Albania with Montenegro- tested last fall for myself.


Briefly the algorithm of actions for self-organizing a trip

  • We obtain a Croatian or multiple-entry Schengen visa as needed;
  • We choose the method of delivery for ourselves and friends - auto, air plus auto, or just air.
  • We choose resort in Croatia and for example Makarska Riviera or Istria
  • Determine the date of the trip
  • - from 100 euros

    Hotel Villa Marija 4 *- a wonderful place near the marina and the center of Podgora, there are several beaches nearby, including secluded ones, pine trees and the price of 75-85 euros is justified for such a place.

    Hotel Podgorka 2 *- right on the sea, 15 meters from the beach, swimming pool and parking, good breakfast at a budget price - 50 Euro for two per season. This is our first hotel in Podgora, I can recommend it if you want good hotel no overpayments for extra stars.

    Adria Apartments 3 *- budgetary, next to the sea, equipped for a comfortable week-long vacation

    How to save up to 30% on accommodation in Croatia

    In addition to the usual and popular Booking.com we often search for hotels on the search engine Hotels Combined (RoomGuru), here you can find cool accommodation options and save up to 30% on the cost of Booking.

    There is also a fairly well-known site AirBnb, many people know about it but do not use it and completely in vain. Apartments here are often cheaper than hotels on Booking - I usually check all the resources.

    Those who looking for accommodation on AirBnb for the first time, can register follow this link and get a bonus for the first booking.

    Where to find cheap flights to Split

    If you decide to fly directly to Split then the cheap tickets i'm looking for on aviasales. Check tickets from your city on the interactive calendar low prices- a handy thing.

    Where to rent a car in Croatia or Hungary

    I have been using rentalcars, recommend it. This is the same Booking (they have common owners) only in the world of car rental. Cancellation option, flexible terms, required type insurance can be issued on the spot.