Saint michel castle. Wonder of the West: Mont Saint-Michel

The castle, or rather the abbey of Mont Saint-Michel, is one of the most beautiful, unusual and unique buildings not only in France, but also in the world. According to statistics, in terms of popularity among tourist sites, this place is on a par with eiffel tower y, which is truly impressive.

In the north-west of the province of Normandy, among the silt and sand, this fortress rises, occupying the entire island. It is the only inhabited of the three located in the Bay of Saint-Michel. The island rises to a height of about 79 m, and is only 1 km in diameter.

The two provinces of Brittany and Normandy have not been able to divide the island-fortress for many centuries. The border is the Couenon River, which flows at the base of the fortress. The distance to Paris is 285 km. In 1874 the island was given the status historical monument.

Since 1979 it has been under the protection of UNESCO.

The uniqueness of the island-fortress lies in its location. Twice a lunar day (24 hours 50 minutes) tides occur in the bay, the strongest on the European coast and the second in the world. This falls on the days of the spring and autumn equinoxes, as well as on the 2nd or 3rd day after the new full moon.

Water departs for a distance of up to 18 km and spills up to 20 km deep. The duration of this natural phenomenon in winter can occur for 8 hours, in summer for an hour more. The maximum water speed is 6 km/h.

There are several ways to get to the castle island. On weekends, Flixbus buses depart from the Defense quarter of Paris early in the morning and return late in the evening. Travel time is 5 hours, the cost of a round trip ticket is about 50 €.

On weekdays, there is a high-speed train from Montparnasse train station to Rennes. Then, you need to transfer to the local Keolys bus. It is possible to purchase a combined train-bus ticket. The price for one way is about 50 €.

If you travel by car, you will have to leave the car 12 km away in the village in the parking lot for 11.5 € per day, then travel the remaining distance by bus for free.

The bus itself is unusual - its walls are upholstered with wooden slats. The last 300 m must be covered on foot, during the Middle Ages this was done in a carriage. Now such a trip by horse-drawn transport will cost 5.3 € per person.

Climatic conditions, the best time to travel

Choosing the time for a trip to the castle-island, you need to focus on the weather forecast for the north of France, the province of Normandy. Consideration should be given to the special location near the ocean. Here the wind roams freely, which is especially felt on the observation decks.

Due to the constantly wet sand around, there are often fogs in winter, and high humidity in summer, combined with the scorching rays of the sun. Of course, before walking near the mountain, you need to know the tide schedule. After all, water comes quickly, at the speed of a running person, and sometimes it can reach 40 km / h.

Local guides will tell you that in the old days, the wave swallowed up inattentive wanderers and even entire crews. The most favorable time to visit this "eighth wonder of the world", as the French call it, is spring and autumn. In summer there are a lot of tourists here.

Transport

Every day, with an interval of several minutes, a bus runs between the island and the mainland. The first flight is at 7.30, the last one is at midnight. Buses on electric traction have an unusual design: the driver's cabin is located in front and behind. They were designed specifically for Mont Saint-Michel. The journey is free, travel time is 12 minutes.

There is also an alternative transport: a wagon drawn by a pair of Norman heavy trucks. Capacity 24 people, price 5 €.

Historical reference

Mont Saint-Michel (France) was originally built as a monastery. An unusual phenomenon of that time: all French castles were built for protection, in the form of defensive outposts. According to legend, in 708 Archangel Michael appeared to Bishop Ober of Avranches and ordered to build a temple on the Grave Hill (the first Christian hermits lived and died here).

The bishop, deciding that he had misinterpreted the vision, ignored it the first time and the second. Finally, the third time, when the archangel burned a hole in Aubert's head, he decided to start building.

According to the vision, it was on the site of the granite ledge that a meeting of two opposing forces took place: good and evil. The forces of light won, it was in honor of this victory that the monastery was built. Within 2 centuries the island became a place of pilgrimage.

Worried about the popularity of canons, Duke Richard I of Normandy replaced the local monks with Benedictines in 966. They were good builders. A small settlement was built for pilgrims. At the top of the hill, a temple was erected with adjacent buildings.

Today, only one wall has survived from the original structure, and the skull of Bishop Aubert is located in the Avranches Basilica. In 1204 the French captured Normandy and burned the monastery. To make amends, french king decides to donate a huge sum for the restoration of the monastery.

In the northern part of the island, the creation of the La Merveille complex was started, which means a miracle in translation. Construction work continued for 17 years. For such an incredible short term there was a masterpiece of architecture, recognized as a model of medieval Gothic.

By the 13th century, several hundred Benedictine monks lived within the walls of the abbey. During the Hundred Years' War, the abbey had an independent status and was under the protection of free knights. They successfully defended their home. Most of the west of France was then captured by the British. To this day, a list of free knights, defenders of the fortress, has been preserved on a stone slab.

The decline of the power of the abbey began already during the Hundred Years War. At the end of the 16th century, only 13 monks remained. In the 18th century, the monastery finally fell into disrepair and was closed during the French Revolution. Until 1863, the abbey building was used as a prison. Napoleon III announced its liquidation, and the monastery received the status of a historical monument.

The abbey church was repeatedly subjected to lightning strikes and fires. To protect against natural phenomena in 1897, a 6-meter lightning rod was installed in the form of a spire. Today it is decorated with a decorative figure of Michael the Archangel with a sword. Over the years of its existence, the abbey church was completely burned down and restored again. In 1966 the monks returned to the abbey.

The main stages in the history of the island - the abbey:

Acquaintance with the monastery, sights

Entrance to the city-fortress is free. After passing through the Royal Gate, then, along the only street in the city of Grande Rue, there is an ascent along the cobbled stone streets up to the abbey church.

Among the locals, this path is called the "outer great climb." After all, the width of the street is only 2 m, the lanes that go to the side are very narrow, you even have to move sideways. How many mysterious things these ancient buildings keep... There are many shops and restaurants along the way. Previously, these were the houses of the abbots.

The urban population, together with the mayor, is no more than 30 people. All of them work in the service sector, have small farmland. In the 19th century, as a result of land reclamation, land was freed for agricultural work. The meat of the lambs grown here has a special taste and has been awarded the AOC quality mark. This happens thanks to the grass irrigated with sea water.

So, further along the way is the Church of Joan of Arc. But what does this Maid of Orleans have to do with the abbey? After all, during her execution in 1431, Mont Saint-Michel did not belong to the territory of France. It was a feudal independent city.

There are 4 museums on the territory of the castle:

Walking down the narrow stone labyrinth, in addition to shops, there is a post office building on the way. This is a great opportunity to send a postcard from the abbey to friends or yourself.

At the end main street steep steps lead to the upper tiers of the complex. This circumstance should be taken into account, since not everyone will be able to overcome such a rise. In front of it is the church of St. Peter with a cemetery.

Abbey tour

Most of the island of 55,000 square meters is occupied by a Benedictine abbey - this is a unique and best example of French medieval architecture. Medieval craftsmen managed to “wrap around” the granite cliff with stone buildings.

The construction of the church, consisting of two 3-storey buildings, is held on a platform 80 m long. The skillfulness of the calculations of architects and builders of that time is striking. This allows us to call San Michele a miracle of architects. Every day there is a service in the church, admission is free.

A visit to the upper tier, where religious sites are concentrated, is paid. Price for adults 10 €, children free of charge. The Church of La Merveille has three floors. The guardroom is the fortified entrance to the abbey. The complex includes a cloister (inner courtyard), a hall for guests and a refectory.

The patio now looks flourishing, with arches around the perimeter. Initially, there was just a stone bag here, which served as a place for prisoners to walk. There were no stone arches around the perimeter. The cloister became such at the beginning of the 20th century, and the garden appeared in 1965.

Immediately behind the cloister is a refectory or refectory. The floor was paved with tiles in 1968, and the bas-reliefs on the walls appeared in 1991. In the guest room, the abbot received guests. It has two large fireplaces designed for cooking and heating food.

Behind the guest room through the gallery, visitors enter the former ossuary - a place where the bones of the dead are stored, extracted from the graves. Here is a huge wooden wheel, installed in 1820 in order to raise food for prisoners and guards. Now it is a copy of that medieval one. The wheel was turned by 2 horses.

Mont-Saint-Michel (France) has preserved to date only some fragments interiors abbeys dating back to the 12th-15th centuries, the main part of the building belongs to the period of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The organ in the temple was installed in 1965.

In the abbey complex there is a striptorial - a library with manuscripts recognized as part of the world cultural heritage. From the top terrace offers a magnificent view of the surroundings, the bay.

Until 2015, there was a bulk dam connecting the monastery with the land. Parking was located right under the rock and was free. Under the pretext of deteriorating environmental conditions, it was decided to move the parking lot away from the island, demolish the dam and build a bridge.

Local kitchen

The city has restaurants and cafes where you can have a tasty meal at reasonable prices. There are no gourmet French restaurants here. All places to eat are located on Grande Rue.

Among the local dishes, seafood is especially popular, especially the meat of local lambs.

Also, guests are offered a branded omelet in a royal way "Mamashi Pulyar", which is cooked on an open fire, buckwheat pancakes.

Everywhere service is fast, as the tourist flow is huge at any time of the year. The average check is 12-25 €, dinner with alcohol will cost 80-120 €. Sandwiches and takeaway snacks cost 3-4 €.

Restaurants are usually located in hotels. Service in such establishments takes place slowly, but this does not bother visitors.

After all, through the panoramic windows of restaurants you can watch the ebb and flow or just enjoy the scenery.

Where to stay

Travelers have a choice: stay in a hotel behind the walls or nearby in La Caserne. In the city, all hotels are located on the main street. Despite a large number of hotels on the island, they are still not enough. Accommodation must be booked in advance.

Mont Saint-Michel (France) offers hotels located on the first floors of buildings of the XV-XVI centuries. The most popular is the hotel La Mare Poulard 3*. It is located in the city center, the windows offer excellent views of the bay, the abbey or ancient buildings. The local restaurant offers the famous omelet, and you can buy groceries in the shop.

The hotel has free Wi-Fi, parking, family rooms. Hiking and cycling tours are organized for guests. Cost of 2 local number in June 2019 about 300 €.

Auberge Saint Pierre is considered best hotel, according to tourists. It is located on the very top of the mountain in a half-timbered mansion of the XIV century. The hotel features elegant French interiors. There are duplex rooms. Breakfast " Buffet”, Wi-Fi. The price of a room is about 200 €. On the territory of the castle there are only 9 hotels of 2-4 stars, there is a campsite open from February 15 to November 11.

At La Caserne the hotel rooms are more comfortable, convenient parking and stormy night life. The price of a room in a 2* hotel is from 55 €. There are no hostels in the vicinity, you can stay at the auberges de jeunesse - a youth hostel.

There may be age restrictions, for example, up to 30 years. You can rent a room in a private house, perhaps conversations with local residents will help to learn much more about the island-fortress.

Along highway D-976, the closest to the island, there are large hotels and motels. There is a railway station 6 km from the island in the town of Pontorson, and buses run regularly to the fortress. For example, in the Montgomery Hotel in an old building and in Bretagne are located good restaurants.

shopping

On the lower tier of the main street are all the shops, souvenir shops. Tourists take with them products made of ceramics, porcelain and copper. Tablecloths, alabaster figurines of chimeras, sets of knightly armor at a huge price are in great demand.

Numerous booklets, gift books and guidebooks are sold at the abbey. Prices are quite affordable. You can bring butter cookies "from mother Poulard", Brittany "Queen-Aman" pies and salty caramel.

The shop "Aux 3 Croissants" sells traditional Brittany and Normandy carpet and woven products, jewelry, and porcelain.

Excursion programs

A ticket purchased to visit the abbey entitles you to join one of the guided tours, which are conducted in several languages. Duration 45 -60 minutes. The tour schedule is posted at the entrance to the complex. In July and August, the abbey is open to the public in the evening.

From 7.00 to 21.00 every day you can walk through the gardens. When video and musical equipment is installed in the abbey, you can stay on the territory until 24.00. Visit from 21.00, price for adults 10 €, from 13 to 24 years old - 7 €.

One of the most unusual islands in the world, Mont Saint-Michel conquers with its uniqueness, mystery, antiquity. France is proud of the abbey no less than the famous Eiffel Tower.

Article formatting: Vladimir the Great

Video of Mont-Saint-Michel

Documentary About Mont Saint-Michel:

Mont Saint-Michel Castle is one of the most popular attractions in France, striking with its unusual and literally fabulous view! After all, the monastery on a rock sticking out of the abyss of water simply cannot help but look stunning.

At the very top of the cliff, at a height of almost 80 meters, the walls of an ancient abbey rise to the sky, and at the end of its spire, located at an altitude of 155.5 meters above sea level, there is a golden figure of an archangel with a pointed sword. Mont Saint Michel protected by the sea from all sides and only a dam 2 kilometers long connects the mainland with the island

Victor Hugo was so impressed with Mont Saint-Michel that he nicknamed it "The Pyramid in the Ocean"

The abbey of Mont Saint-Michel is the most visited corner in France after Paris. Due to the territorial affiliation of this a unique corner two areas are arguing - Brittany and Normandy. Nevertheless, it is generally accepted that the border between them is drawn along the river Couenon running in the coastal sands, which is not in favor of Brittany. There is even a French proverb about this: “Couenon went mad, so Mont Saint-Michel ended up in Normandy.”

The entrance to the castle originates at the Royal Gate. From here, the only street extends into the interior of the island - Grande Rue. In tiny, almost toy houses of the 15th-16th centuries, huddled together on two sides of the street, cafes, restaurants, hotels and tents with a variety of souvenirs now operate.

There are several versions of the origin of Mont Saint-Michel. The first, the most plausible, claims that at the beginning of the 8th century after strong storm in this part of the English Channel has changed coastline. Part of the coastal meadows and forests disappeared under water and then covered with sand, and two rocky hills became islands. The largest among them is Mont Tomb (French for “Grave Hill”), and is now named Mont Saint-Michel. The little one is named Tombelin (“Little Grave”).
According to the second version, both rocks were dragged into the sea by giants - the parents of Gargantua. Grangousier, his father, as is customary among men, carried the heaviest of stones - Mont Tomb, and Gargamellet, mother of Gargantua, dragged Tombelin. But the giants got tired and threw these stones near the shore. Gargantua also contributed to the contours of the local relief, creating the Couesnon River. How, according to legend, he did it, I won’t tell you, you can guess for yourself ...

With a lock Mont Saint Michel associated with a huge number of legends. According to one of them, in 708 the Archangel Michael came to Archbishop Ober in a dream. The archangel ordered the bishop to dedicate to him then already almost completely covered by the sea rock. Aubert did not comply with this order, in fear of becoming a victim of his own imagination. The same vision was repeated many times in the future. Then the archangel could not bear such disobedience and plunged his finger into Aubert's head. In order to finally convince the bishop and other Christians, he created many miracles here. By the way, the legend is a legend, but in the skull of Ober, scientists actually found a hole) It could be caused, for example, by a combat wound or trepanation during brain surgery, or maybe the archangel actually poked his finger :)

The monastery of St. Michael was built for a very long time - from the 11th to the 16th century. The Vikings settled here, from here William the Conqueror went to England, many kings lived here. During the Hundred Years' War between France and England, Mont Saint-Michel was the last French stronghold in Normandy, never captured by the enemy ... It was never conquered, once surviving even a 30-year siege - in history it remained an impregnable castle. The castle was conquered only by tourists - today it is visited by more than 3 million tourists every year - only Paris and Versailles are more popular

The monastery of Mont Saint-Michel was closed a very long time ago - back in 1790! A few decades later, ironically, the most dangerous criminals and scoundrels were imprisoned here - the castle turned into a state prison for half a century. Because of this, it is popularly called the “provincial Bastille”. Only in 1863, after a major restoration, he opened his Royal doors again, but for tourists.

Tourists admire not only the architectural delights of Mont Saint-Michel - the reason is that in our time it becomes an island only 2 times a year. This happens due to the fact that over the past centuries the sea has receded - now most of the time the castle is surrounded by sand, but 2 times a year (during the autumn and spring equinoxes) during strong tides it becomes an island. In just one day, the water level rises by as much as 10 meters - these are the most powerful tides in all of France, and at low tide the sea recedes from the coast by 25 kilometers!

By the way, if Mont Saint-Michel seemed familiar to someone, it was probably due to the fact that the island-castle was the prototype of the Minas Tirith fortress in the popular film “The Lord of the Rings”

Along with the world-famous Eiffel Tower, there is another business card France. This time we are not talking about a separate building, but a whole complex that occupies the territory of a small island. This is one of the most picturesque corners of Normandy, which is rightfully considered a real monument of the history of France - this is the island-monastery of Mont Saint-Michel.

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The impressive island, which is based on millions of tons of granite, is only 930 meters in diameter, and highest point located at an altitude of only 92 meters above sea level. It was he who was chosen in the 8th century by the Benedict monks, who became his rightful owners for many centuries, having built a real abbey.

There is a legend according to which the place for the construction of the monastery was not chosen by chance. In a dream, Archangel Michael appeared to Bishop Avranches and ordered to build a monastery on the island to commemorate the battle between the light forces of the heavenly host and the satanic hordes, which appeared in the form of a dragon. According to the vision, it was here, on the granite ledges of the island, that the fateful meeting of two eternal enemies - good and evil - took place.

The construction of the monastery was financed by the Norman dukes, who saw not only a religious significance in its rough outlines, but also a strategic one. It was the island that was to become the first stronghold of the numerous Viking raids that Normandy was systematically subjected to.

The construction of the central building of the abbey lasted for a long 500 years from 1017, when the first stone was laid, to 1520. And by the 12th century the monastery became one of the main religious centers for numerous pilgrims from Europe. Finishing touches, which completed the image of the modern monastery, were brought in until the 17th century, as a result of which a complex complex of buildings and structures began to rise above the island, the architecture of which echoed Gothic and Romanesque styles.

Everyone who sees this masterpiece of human creation for the first time with delight and hope will watch the structures literally climbing steep slopes towards the sun, the crown of which is the elegant church of Marvel. All this creates a truly bewitching landscape, which only the famous creation of Eiffel can compare with. Therefore, it is not at all surprising that this grandiose complex is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Island crashing into the ocean

Mont Saint-Michel is able to give one of the most vivid and unforgettable experiences in the life of everyone who is lucky enough to be here. It is difficult to find the right words to convey as colorfully and accurately as possible the sensations that you experience every time you sit at a table on the terrace of a restaurant with a tablecloth whitened to a crisp and greedily absorb the boundless expanse of the ocean with your eyes.

And what is the air here! Simply saying that every breath makes you dizzy and your pulse beats faster in your temples will obviously not be enough. He is special here. It is to the local air that such a description as “soaked with age-old dampness” sea air is best suited. The impressions will be especially vivid during high tide, which, like a leopard stalking a prey, is selected silently and imperceptibly.

The island is located in the north-west of France and is part of a group of islands located in the bay of the same name. It is only 2 km from the mainland of the state and at low tide it is not difficult to get to it. Although, due to the local features of the sea weather, the island sometimes seems like an impregnable fort, the path to which is blocked by huge gray-green waves that crash against the rocks below.

It is interesting that, despite such proximity to mainland France, as well as to historical Normandy, Britain repeatedly tried to “redraw” the local borders in its favor and make the island another distant harbor for its numerous ships. This is due to the crazy popularity of this place, with which only one place can compete with this criterion - the French capital. Because of this, the French, who have never been too modest, called these places "the eighth wonder of the world."

How to get there

Of course, after such a vivid description of the local beauties, an image of an old carriage with a forged frame, harnessed to a pair of black horses, appears in my head. It is they who must deliver the real adventurer to the wooden suspension bridge, which, descending with a creak, will reveal its secrets and untold riches that have been saved here from time immemorial. To complete the image of the ancient castle, there are not enough statues of mythical monsters - chimeras.

Perhaps a couple of centuries ago, this is exactly what the path to the world-famous abbey looked like. But today you can get to the Abbey of Saint-Michel with great comfort. For example, buying a ticket for Express train from Paris to Rennes (approximately 55.8 euros), and then transferring to a regular bus that will take travelers to the foot of the monastery (a little more than 11 euros). There is also a system of discounts, which will be a pleasant surprise for young travelers.

If you want to save money or just prefer to travel with an ascetic bias, we recommend bus route through Pontorson. Regular bus goes only 6 times a day, but the fare will cost only 5 euros. But such inconveniences will not be a serious obstacle for true adventurers.

You can go to the holy place and by private car. But in order to avoid unpleasant surprises, it is recommended to leave the car in a specially designated place where it will be safe at high tide, and go on foot for the remaining couple of kilometers.

If you decide to go to the island in order to replenish your personal photo album with new pictures, and your hearts with vivid impressions, we strongly do not recommend choosing summer months. During this period, the influx of tourists to the monastery is simply huge, which will not allow you to fully appreciate the beauty of these places. And, of course, we advise you to purchase a by-catch calendar, using which you can choose the best time for photo hunting and take simply stunning pictures of landscapes that open from the fortress walls.

Do not forget to take into account the peculiarities of the local climate, which obviously will not allow you to defile in a colorful sundress and light sandals. Harsh winds, which feel like full-fledged masters in the local expanses, have a negative attitude towards such equipment for tourists. But the most important accompanying person during the trip should be humility. After all, it is the humble tourists who can count on enlightenment within the walls of this holy place.

Entertainment and excursions

When you get tired of looking at the raging ocean and following the endless cycles of tides, you can go for a walk around the island, during which you will find many more interesting acquaintances and discoveries. But before that, close your eyes for a moment and imagine that the yard is in the heyday of the medieval knightly era, and you are none other than the main character of Dumas's beloved novel from youth. Represented? Then go!

The Royal Gate, a little rough, but created with a medieval taste, lancet stone vaults, as well as a huge knight's hall and a refectory, where several hundred years ago the bass voices of the defenders of the island hummed, as well as numerous streets meandering, as if luring into the depths of the island, all this will require a lot of attention and time from you.

Do you like mystery and different puzzles? There is more than enough of this goodness here! There are many secret passages in the streets that will lead to another part of the monastery, and wooden doors upholstered with iron frames make sounds that are so clearly remembered from the time of watching films about the exploits of knights and medieval castles.

All this, no doubt, will leave an unforgettable mark in the memory of every visitor to these wonderful places, will beckon again and again to plunge into the charm and unique charm of the monastery, which is located on the island of Mont Saint-Michel.

Well, how to get around one of the most mysterious places on the island - a small vaulted room that has the name "Notre Dame underground." There are many legends and legends that reveal the history of this mysterious place from different angles. And you should definitely get to know many of them.

Local kitchen

If you decide to go to the island, you should definitely get acquainted with the local cuisine traditions. The menu of the restaurants located on the island is represented by national dishes of Breton cuisine, the basis of which is lamb dishes. In addition, seafood lovers, meat dishes and salads will be able to discover a lot of new things.

Before you order a meat steak or other similar dish, remember that the French prefer undercooked, almost raw meat. Depending on the order, you will have to pay from 14 to 35 euros for dinner.

You can stay at one of the local hotels, some of which are located on the first floors of buildings that date back to the 15th-16th century. From the windows hotel rooms you can enjoy marvelous landscapes until dusk, and a good mood in the morning guarantees clean sea air, which in just a couple of nights will saturate your body with useful salts and minerals.

Mont Saint Michel- this is an island-fortress, striking with its medieval buildings and picturesque location. A huge piece of conical granite, rising almost 80 meters above sea level, has long merged with the powerful walls of the Benedictine abbey, which withstood storms, tides, Viking raids and religious wars. Mont Saint-Michel is considered one of the main attractions of France, and for me it is also one of modern wonders Sveta.
Mount Saint Michael (this is how the name is translated) is located on the border of Normandy and Brittany, therefore it is a bone of contention between these two historical areas, although officially belongs to Normandy. In the bay of the same name, one can observe some of the strongest tides in the world - water level fluctuations can reach 14 meters. In this case, the water can depart or, on the contrary, spread inland for a couple of tens of kilometers.
Before this spring trip, I had already visited Mont Saint-Michel several times, but I had never seen it surrounded by water. This time I planned my trip to coincide with one of the most powerful tides of the year. What came of it, see the continuation of the record.

In 1874, the island was declared a historical monument, and soon after that, an unflooded dam (connecting Saint-Michel to the mainland) was erected in the bay, along which, until recently, a parking lot for tourists was arranged. But a few years ago, they decided to demolish the dam, as it posed a threat to the unique properties of the island and the bay - sand deposits delayed tidal waters. IN this moment is being built here pedestrian bridge, and a shuttle runs along the preserved path.

Now you can’t get to the abbey by your own car, but you can live very close to the island, and it’s very budgetary. Double room in the hotel Formula Verte cost me only 50 euros per night (although they say that this hotel has recently closed). The shuttle stops almost under the windows, runs every 10 minutes, and the journey does not take even five.

In a kind of buffer zone in front of the former dam, there are several hotels and restaurants for every taste. If you stay at one of the hotels, they will send you a code with which you can raise the barrier and enter the territory in your car. Moreover, the code can only be used once: if you want to leave this zone and then re-enter, you will have to buy an additional code for a couple of euros. The system is a little strange, but the company decided so Veolia- owner of a new car park.

The shuttles are free, gray buses with wooden trim. It is warm inside, they go quite often (every five to ten minutes) and almost all day - from half past seven in the morning until midnight. Even if the time is very late, and the shuttle no longer runs, you can call a special number and a mini-bus will be sent for you personally, again free of charge. This is incredibly convenient if you want to take a romantic walk around the abbey by moonlight.

On Mont Saint-Michel there are always a lot of Japanese, connoisseurs of beauty. And in the summer, tourists of all nationalities are not overcrowded at all, therefore best time for a trip - late spring or early autumn. In winter, there are few people, because it is quite cold and gloomy.

To find out when the highest tide can be seen, I used the site http://www.ot-montsaintmichel.com/en/horaire-marees/mont-saint-michel.htm. Here are the coefficients of the strongest tides of each month. The higher the coefficient, the higher the water rises, and the more spectacular the views of the island. I decided to come at the end of March, when a tide of 104 was expected - the sea level in the bay rose by almost 14 meters. In the near future, the most favorable months are February, March, August and September 2014. Be sure to look up the exact tide dates and times (twice a day).

The Couesnon River, which flows into the bay opposite Mont Saint-Michel, serves as the border between Normandy and Brittany.

Behind last years The Mont Saint Michel Rescue Association has done a lot of work to clear the bay of sand deposits, as the tides have become less pronounced over the years. At the same time, the dam at the mouth of the Couenon was reconstructed.

Directly opposite the island there is now a wonderful observation deck made of glass and wood - convenient, beautiful and environmentally friendly.

The water level in Couesnon is regulated by a dam. Heavy doors protect settlements upstream from tidal wave and floods. This is what the dam looks like when open:

And so in the closed. The water level has risen slightly compared to the previous photo.

On the first day, I observed the evening tide, reaching its peak at half past eight, that is, after sunset. The day was rather gloomy, and by the evening it became even more cold and uncomfortable. In addition, the next morning it turned out that a little snow had fallen during the night. In general, the weather was naturally winter.

About an hour and a half before the high tide, I dressed warmly and left the hotel to watch the rising water in the gradually darkening twilight. Here's how it happened:

Only three minutes passed from the first to the last photo in this series. The water level rises surprisingly fast, because the speed of the tide can reach 6 km / h.

Because with observation deck I would not see anything new, it was decided to take a shuttle and go to the island. In the evening, I had not been to Saint-Michel before this time. So far, not everything has been ennobled here, as the construction of a pedestrian bridge is in full swing, but when this is finished, it will be just a feast for the eyes, judging by the visualizations

Approximately like this:

Mont Saint-Michel at night is something incredible. There are almost no tourists, silence, waves, wind, seagulls... It feels like medieval city completely at your disposal - you can climb steep stairs, look into empty chapels, walk along thick fortress walls. Shooting without a tripod was a waste of time, so I won't show the rest of the evening walk. Let me just say that it was very atmospheric.

Not satisfied with Mont Saint-Michel because of the cold and cloudy weather, I went to Brittany, and on the way back I decided to stop by here again. This time the day turned out to be just right - very sunny and positive.

Quite another matter. The photo was taken at half past eleven - the very peak of the tide. True, the coefficient is less than on the first evening - 83 against 104.

The abbey is covered with a light haze, like a veil, but you can still see the details.

The first evening I only heard the splashing waves, but this time I saw it with my own eyes. The water came close to the stone walls. It remains only to dismantle the dam, and Saint-Michel will become a full-fledged island.

A shot from a personal archive: this is what Mont Saint-Michel looked like in 2001. At first glance, little has changed, but you can see a large parking lot under the walls of the abbey. The water level is much lower - these are large "puddles" left after high tide. I could not see the tide myself then, because I had to leave before dark.

Another shot from the archive - this time from 2005.

But this spring, I finally saw an incredible picture - the full-flowing bay of Saint-Michel from the height of the abbey. White lambs of slightly chaotic tidal waves are clearly visible.

From the archive: a bay at low tide.

Flooded salty meadows, where real lambs are already grazing.

From the archive:

Second large island in the Bay of Saint-Michel - Tombelin. At low tide, this bird sanctuary can be reached on foot.

Bird Island.

From the archive:

The soothing cloister of the abbey.

From the archive (walks around the bay):

So another little dream came true - to see how the waters Atlantic Ocean wash the walls of the abbey Saint-Michel. It seems to me that every traveler should see something like this in his life.

If possible, I will return here in a couple of years, when the pedestrian bridge is completed, and the mountain of the Archangel Michael will again become an island, and then it will be impossible not to include Mont Saint-Michel in the list of modern wonders of the world.

How to get there: by train from Paris Montparnasse) before Rennes(2 hours 20 minutes), then by bus to Mont-Saint-Michel(1 hour 15 minutes). Or by car from Paris in 3 and a half hours.

Dedicated to the Archangel Michael, the Gothic-style Benedictine monastery and the settlement that grew up at the foot of its huge walls are called the “Wonder of the West”. It is located between Normandy and Brittany on a rocky peninsula that turns into an island during strong tides. The monastery, built in the period of the XI-XVI centuries. in the most difficult natural conditions, is recognized as an artistic and engineering masterpiece and is on the List world heritage(Mont-Saint-Michel et sa baie) since 1979

Mont Saint-Michel is located in Lower Normandy in the Manche department. The complex is located on an island-rock, rising above the average sea level by 78.8 m. It stands out sharply against the background of the bay and flat coast surrounding it. The island is a conical granite formation approximately 930 m in diameter, formed from weathering-resistant igneous rocks - leucogranites.

Twice a lunar day (after 24 hours 50 minutes) tides are observed in the bay, the strongest on the coast of Europe and the second in amplitude on the entire globe. after a new or full moon) the water lasts 8 hours in winter and 9 hours in summer. Water can depart from Saint-Michel for 18 km, and spread up to 20 km inland. Most of the year, the space surrounding the island is quicksand.

At first, the mountain was on land, surrounded by forests, and was the habitat of the Celtic tribes, on which the Druids performed their rites. Then, as a result of soil erosion caused by the activity of the sea and the three rivers flowing into it, the sea stepped on land. One of the rivers - Couenon, which flows into the sea at the very dam - is now administrative border between Normandy and Brittany.

Currently water regime The bay raises serious concerns, including those caused by the difficult environmental situation, and a decision was made to destroy the dam (it has existed since 1879) and replace it with a bridge. In the meantime, the dam exists, and huge numbers of tourists are delivered here through it (spots in the picture because it was taken through a dirty bus window).

The island is the only inhabited of the three granite formations of the Bay of Saint-Michel (Mont-Saint-Michel, Tomblen and Mont-Dol). This is what Tomblen Island looks like.

The city on the island has existed since 709. It currently has several dozen inhabitants. As a result of the activity of several generations of builders, a unique microcosm was created here, reflecting in architectural forms the evolution of the worldview from the Middle Ages to the present. This natural and historical complex is one of the most famous places for visiting. The island is located 400 km northwest of Paris and attracts tourists from all over the world, like a living legend, because the biblical battle between the Archangel Michael and Satan in the form of a dragon ended, according to legend, right here. In France, Mont Saint-Michel is second in popularity only to the Eiffel Tower and Versailles. The total number of visitors to the complex per year is 1.5 - 1.8, and according to some sources - up to 3.5 million people, and about 650 thousand tourists rise to the abbey in July-August. The figure of Michael the Archangel is installed on the spire of the abbey.

Before the construction of the first place of worship in the 8th century, the island was named Mogilnaya Gora (Mont Tombe). According to the "Golden Legend", in 708 here Archangel Michael gave the Bishop of Avranches Saint Auber the task to build a church on the rock. Three times the guards of the gates of paradise had to appear before the bishop, because he was not sure whether he had correctly interpreted the sign. And only after, according to one version, the Archangel Michael tapped him on the head with his finger, and according to another version, he burned the bishop's cassock with his sword - Ober ordered the monks to begin construction. In accordance with the instructions of the archangel, the church was built in the form of a grotto depicting a cave in which the appearance of St. Michael. This version of the legend is evidenced by the remains of two Christian chapels, probably dating back to the 6th century, discovered on the mountain during excavations. Since that time, according to legend, "in the days of St. Michael, the sea decreases and leaves an open passage for people." The abbey was built from the 11th to the 16th century. The first Carolingian church, Notre Dame sous Terre (Underground Virgin), was erected in the pre-Romanesque style on the site of a grotto built by Auber. Over the years, the island has repelled repeated Viking raids. In 966, several dozen monks settled on the island, who came here from the monastery of San Vandrii, who founded the abbey here. In 1017 Abbot Gildeber II began the construction of the central building of the monastery, which was completed only in 1520. In the XII century, the abbey became one of the centers of pilgrimage Western Europe, his influence and power grew. The decline of the monastery's power began during the Hundred Years' War. The English besieged the abbey from 1424 to 1434 but failed to capture the island. The city, however, was almost completely destroyed. However, already from the middle of the 15th century, the abbey began to receive pilgrims again. In 1470, the French king Louis XI founded the Order of St. Michael (Orden den Chevaliers de Saint-Michel) in honor of the defenders of the island, whose residence is located in the abbey. Despite the completion in 1520 of the central building in the late Gothic ("Flaming Gothic") style, Mont Saint-Michel soon began to fall into disrepair. Although the monastery escaped plunder during the outbreak of religious wars, by the time of the French Revolution it was almost abandoned. In 1791 the monks left the monastery. The monastery was closed (the monks returned to the island only in 1966), and until 1863 the island was used as a prison, and the island bore the ironic name of Mount Liberty (Mont Libre) - many prisoners were political opponents of the ruling regimes of France from the First Republic to the Second Empire . At times, up to one and a half hundred prisoners were kept here.

The abbey covers an area of ​​about 55,000 m² and is an example of a medieval French fortified monastery. In connection with the celebration of the millennium of monasticism, in 1969 the Benedictine community settled in the premises of the abbey, currently numbering 7 people. The construction of the church was started in a new Romanesque style for that time. Funds for its construction were given in 1022 by the Duke of Normandy Richard II in order to attract pilgrims here. At the top of the granite cone there was no platform that could accommodate a building with a planned length of 70 m, and therefore the architects decided to support almost the entire western nave of the church on the Notre-Dame-sous-Terre church. Directly on the rock, on the upper level, the cross of the transept (1032-1048) and the choir were placed. The picture shows the interiors of the main church with a Romanesque nave and choirs in the "Flaming Gothic" style.

And here is a purely Romanesque style.

Monastic refectory.

The north wing of the transept rests on the crypt of Our Lady with Thirty Candles, while the south wing rests on the crypt of St. Martin, preserved almost entirely, with the exception of the almost completely lost painting. Despite the fact that these crypts were built only to support the wings of the transept, they are used as chapels in worship. The architecture of the monastery is unique in that the monastic services do not surround the monastery courtyard, but are built on different levels. Miracle Complex. The monastery courtyard is a chiostro, surrounded by an inwardly open gallery that serves as a procession. The procession, intended for meditation, should not allow those praying to see anything but the sky.

Well, now we're just walking.

Below is located tourist village with shops and restaurants.

In general - a marvelous place that I would like to wish all good people to visit.

And my carcass is in the background.