Dry salt lake of Uyuni. The Uyuni Salt Flat is the largest salt desert in the world
The Uyuni Salt Flat is not just the main attraction of Bolivia and one of the most interesting places on the planet. This is truly another planet - a land where everything is completely different from what we are used to. Unreal landscapes, Amazing places, sunsets, sunrises, salt, water, giant cacti, a steam locomotive cemetery, endless horizons, colorful mountains, hot springs, rushing geysers, colorful lagoons, llamas and flamingos - these are just the things that come to mind first. In fact, there is much more beautiful and amazing there. It is worth adding that you look at all this natural splendor from the windows of a jeep, which looks very colorful in the endless white spaces.
All these incredible landscapes impressed me so much that I went to the salt marsh twice and would happily go again. Each time you travel, you can add something new, and, most importantly, depending on the time of year, the lagoons and salt sea can look completely different.
The Uyuni Salt Flat looks like it is impossible to describe in words. It's like salsa, which you can't learn, but only feel. This is mysticism, another universe, complete delight, the riot of nature, a combination of what we would never think of combining, harmony, explosion, unity of living and nonliving, contrast, life.
How to get there
Let's take a closer look at each route option.
From Bolivia
Tours, and this is the most popular and, by the way, quite convenient opportunity to see the most interesting places of a huge natural park, begin in the town of Uyuni, which can be reached by plane or bus.
By plane
If you are already in Bolivia, then most likely you will get to from the picturesque highland city of La Paz, which is often mistakenly considered the capital.
Here are two airlines that fly to Uyuni:
- Amazonas;
The schedules of the two airlines are approximately the same. Every day there are two flights in both directions, as you can see, for example:
- morning - around 07:00–10:00;
- evening - at 19:00–21:00.
The cost of a round trip ticket will be about 160 USD, the travel time is about an hour. Airport Joya Andina is located just 3 kilometers from the village of Uyuni itself. You can get there by taxi for 3–5 USD or on foot, if time and lack of luggage allows (30 minutes).
Be careful when choosing an airline. When paying for an Amaszonas ticket online, you must use the bank card, which you will have with you. If it is not available, boarding will be denied. This is a slightly strange system, but when registering, company employees make a copy of the card, so you won’t be able to deceive them or slip another one.
Boa has a number of advantages: the planes are newer, and the amount of baggage allowed in hand luggage higher (5 and 7 kilograms depending on the type of aircraft versus 3 and 5 kilograms in Amaszonas).
By bus
In Latin America, over the years of traveling, I traveled most by bus. This type of transport is very convenient. Firstly, long-distance and international buses Most often they are quite convenient for long journeys. Secondly, you can get around cheaper and see the sights and views along the way. Thirdly, the bus is a great chance to get acquainted with the latest films in the local language, think about life or just relax. The main advantage of night buses is that they save money on hotels, and for poor travelers this can be important.
In the case of Uyuni, I took a bus from La Paz. Buses depart from the city's main transport terminal.
Several companies travel along the route, among which Panasur and Todo turismo are the most popular. The ticket price will be 7–10 USD, and the travel time will be 12–13 hours.
It is better to purchase tickets in advance, at least one way and at least a couple of hours before departure to book yourself comfortable spot. You can also buy a return ticket right away, but it is not necessary. There shouldn't be any problems on site. Most often, seats on a bus are arranged in two rows: one has two seats, the other has one. The second option is more convenient. It is better to take a blanket and a warm jacket on the bus, as Latin American drivers love to use the air conditioning at full capacity.
In Uyuni, the bus arrives at the very center of the city, where guests are usually met by representatives travel companies and sellers of everything in the world.
Overall, the bus is a convenient option. Tours start early in the morning (around 7-9 am) and end a few days later (most often on the third day) at lunchtime. There is time to walk around the town, eat alpaca meat in one of the many restaurants, chat with other travelers, drink beer on the main streets, buy souvenirs, buy a bus ticket and calmly return to La Paz the next morning.
By train
Lovers railway transport can get to Uyuni by train from Oruro. Alas, the train leaves from railway station Oruro not every day:
- Expreso Del Sur runs on Tuesdays and Fridays. From Oruro the train departs at 14:30 and arrives at 21:20. IN reverse side the train leaves at 01:45 and arrives at 08:45.
- Wara Wara Del Sur runs on Thursdays and Sundays. From Oruro it departs at 19:00 and arrives at 02:20. IN reverse direction trains leave at 00:10 and arrive in Oruro at 07:10.
The ticket price in regular class is 8 USD, in business class - 17 USD. Business class consists of two soft seats in a row, as in express trains; in addition, the ticket includes drinks and light snacks, and you can have a snack in the dining car. In regular class (salon), the conditions are similar: the seats are comfortable, but the ticket price does not include drinks and snacks, and there is no carpet on the floor, which, in principle, can be tolerated.
The train moves slowly, but the views from the windows are decent.
Now it is possible to buy tickets online, but many tourists talk about the unreliability of such an option. It is better to come to the box office, which opens at 08:00 and is closed on Sunday, and buy tickets. If you're lucky, you can buy tickets for the same day, or you may only have business class tickets left. Some time ago, the railway office began selling tickets several days in advance, which is only suitable for those who are going to spend a few days in Oruro. Therefore, my advice is to come early in the morning and hope that luck smiles on you.
From Chile
The salt marsh is located on the border with Chile, so tours are also organized from the Chilean side. In Chile, the tour begins in the town of San Pedro de Atacama, in the Atacama Desert of the same name. The famous picturesque altiplano - a vast plateau in the Andes, dotted with volcanoes - begins here.
By plane
Closest airport to San Pedro de Atacama El Loa is located 100 kilometers in the city of Kalama. A taxi from the airport for 40–50 USD will take you to San Pedro in an hour and a half.
Flights from Santiago are operated by Latam and Sky Airlines. The flight time from the capital is 2 hours, a round-trip ticket will cost 80–100 USD.
By bus
This type of transport from the capital of Chile, Santiago, departs from the Alameda terminal.
Travel time is about 12 hours, the ticket price varies between 60–100 USD, depending on the class of the bus. Popular companies operating flights on this route:
- Turbus;
- Pullman;
- Andesmar.
When to go
The Uyuni Salt Flat can be visited all year round, because if you managed to see this natural miracle with your own eyes, then this is already a colossal success.
However, at different times of the year there are slight differences in what exactly you will see in the vast uninhabited expanses national park.
From January to early Marchthat precipitation falls actively here, so the salt marsh turns into a giant mirror, which reflects the incredible sky, tall cacti, all-terrain jeeps and everything that pleases the eye.
At other times of the year the landscapes are no less beautiful. In the sunset rays, the salt diamonds seem ideal, besides, in the “dry” season (from May to October) you can get to all places, because sometimes, when there is too much rain, some of the curious corners become difficult to access, and guides prefer not to take risks.
Therefore, my advice is this: go to the Uyuni salt flat any time you can and the opportunity presents itself.
What is the price
As I said, the tour is a convenient opportunity to see national park.
The main advantages are the price and the opportunity to communicate with tourists from different countries. The downside is that several people in the jeep may be cramped, and fellow travelers may be on different wavelengths or (as in my case) not know Spanish. Therefore, I had to work as a free translator all the way, since the guide spoke only nominal English.
If you have the opportunity and desire, it is better to order individual tour, then you will stand and look at the flamingos as much as you want and will not depend on the fact that someone did not hear the alarm clock and did not get up for breakfast.
However, all these current moments lose all meaning when you find yourself in the face of the eternal and beautiful, and this is exactly how and only this way I can characterize nature in those parts. The spectacle is so captivating that the guide’s ignorance of the language, the light morning frost, and the talkativeness of some members of the group become unimportant.
The cost of the tour may vary depending on the hotel you will sleep in, your bargaining skills and, of course, your level of language proficiency. However, the price for a three-day tour, which includes almost everything, is still so low that even taking into account the tourist overpayment, this opportunity is more than affordable. The cost of such a package is on average 180–230 USD per person, subject to a full jeep, which is 5–6 tourists.
The cost of the tour from the Chilean side is approximately the same. Thanks to the park’s favorable location at the junction of two countries, it is convenient for travelers to plan the route as they please. For example, you can travel from Bolivia to Chile and vice versa. Jeeps always clarify what tourists' plans are in order to take those who wish to the border on the third day.
In general, all companies offer approximately the same range of services and approximately the same price level. I personally used the services of OIivos and can confidently recommend it. Tours are purchased on the spot, but you can contact the agency in advance and pay a deposit. However, I would not advise doing this, because anything is possible. My bus got into repair work and was 5 hours late, so my tour had already left. It would have been sad if an advance payment had been made, but I spent all my money and energy looking for a new tour departing later.
The price of a private tour is, of course, higher. It starts from 120–200 USD per day, depending on the level of the hotel, the number of tourists and the selected guide.
Additional expenses
You need to take some money with you in the local currency Boliviano (BOB). In addition to the paid tour, you will have to pay additionally for a visit to observation deck on the island of fishermen if desired (5 USD) and mandatory admission ticket to the national park (22 USD). Sometimes there may be paid toilets (0.5 USD).
Food and accommodation
Food is usually included in the tour. The food is quite filling and good; at the places where you spend the night you can buy wine or drinks with chips. Staying overnight is one part of the adventure, because for one night you sleep not just in a hotel, but in a hotel made of salt.
Usually electricity here only works after sunset, and it is also very cold at night (it can even be -10-15 ° C), but the hotels still have their own special charm. And warm blankets.
And when the tour begins early in the morning, bright stars, which are rarely seen in such numbers in cities, are clearly visible in the frosty air.
At such moments you realize how beautiful our world is.
The second overnight stay as part of a standard tour takes place in hostel-type hotels, where 2-6 people can sleep in one room.
Despite the spartan conditions, there is everything you need to have a good night. For an additional fee you can spend the night in a hotel with a higher category of comfort.
Main tourist spots
As part of the three-day tour, tourists visit several interesting places, which are shown in this image:
I'll briefly tell you what to expect from each of them.
Steam Locomotive Cemetery (Cementerio de Trenes)
The Locomotive Cemetery is the attraction where the tour most often begins. A few kilometers from Uyuni there used to be railway tracks, and the traffic was very busy.
However, over time, mining activity declined, and the locomotives went to live out their lives in the cemetery, which is now used as a tourist attraction. It is interesting and photogenic here: you can climb over rusty railway participants or think about the eternal, looking at the endless rails going into nowhere.
Valley of Geysers "Morning Sun" (El Sol de Mañana)
If you have been to, then the geysers of Bolivia are unlikely to impress you. I haven’t been to Iceland yet, and I liked the Valley of Geysers. The fact is that in Uyuni nothing can be perceived in isolation.
A geyser is not just a hot stream, but an organic part of the surrounding landscape, which is always incredible. Therefore, these shooting steam jets from the ground against the backdrop of terracotta mountains did not leave me indifferent.
Hot Springs (Aguas Termales)
At the end of a busy day of travel, there is nothing better than dipping your impressed body into a natural pool of hot water at an altitude of over 3,000 meters above sea level. There is no infrastructure here, just a small house that is not always open, so you have to change clothes quickly. However, the disadvantages of inconvenience are more than compensated by the pleasure that you get later, sitting in hot water and watching the endless valley shimmering with different shades and colors.
By the way, the construction of a new comfortable locker room is currently underway, so the next travelers can expect comfort and warmth... Or maybe not, because the concept of “tomorrow” in Latin America is very conditional.
Don't miss the hot springs, it's the best place to wash off the colorful dust of the roads and go out refreshed towards new adventures!
Salt marsh (Salar de Uyuni) and salt mines (montones de sal), square with flags (plaza de las banderas)
Actually, the most important place in the national park is a giant dry salt lake with an area of 10,000 square meters. km.
The range of entertainment here is wide.
From the enthusiastic contemplation of endless snow-white expanses to photographs of salt slides with an ideal geometric shape.
From staged photographs and games with scale to the search for your own flag in the “square”, where weathered and battered they flutter proudly in the wind.
They take place on the lake famous races Dakar, and here you can see the most beautiful sunsets, where the sun clearly outlines perfect crystalline diamonds on the salt surface.
Stone tree in the desert (Desierto de Silioli y Arbol de Piedra)
Stone Tree is exactly what the name suggests. Desert winds, climate and sand did their job and created this bizarre five-meter rock formation.
Previously, the “tree” was fenced with a rope, which made it difficult beautiful photos and added inappropriate artificiality to the landscape, but now everything is open and you can even climb to the top of the “tree” with the proper skill.
Desert of Salvador Dali
Dali, unfortunately, did not know about the existence of this place, and the desert received its name due to the similarity of the landscape with some of the paintings of the great surrealist.
Colorful lagoons (Lagunas coloradas)
The colorful lagoons are another highlight of the trip. The lakes are located in the Eduardo Avaroa National Park (Parque nacional de Eduardo Avaroa). In the morning, the group members meet the dawn in the local desert, greeting the sun emerging from behind the mountain.
Along with the light comes warmth, and acquaintance with the lagoons begins. It’s hard for me to say what impressed me most, because even on the second visit I practically couldn’t shut my mouth in admiration.
What else can you experience when you stand at an altitude of several thousand meters in the middle of the desert, in front of you is a huge lake of red and white color, pink flamingos are walking somewhere in the middle, and picturesque volcanoes rise as a massive background behind you.
Around the lagoons you can meet fluffy and friendly llamas and alpacas, as well as daring cyclists who ride from who knows where and who knows where. Then there were more lagoons (there are 4 of them), more flamingos, more colors, more emotions.
Bright mountains and endless valleys, and modest chinchillas.
Green Lake (Laguna verde)
The green lagoon stands apart from the list of colorful lagoons in the national park. It is closest to the border with Chile and is windy and cold, as its altitude is 4,350 meters above sea level.
However, all this ceases to have at least some meaning when an incredible panorama in rich colors opens up before the gaze that is tired of admiring it.
Fishermen's Island or Incahuasi (Isla Incahuasi o Isla de Pescadores)
The fishermen's island is famous primarily for its giant cacti, reaching 10 meters in height.
To climb to the observation deck at the top of the island, you need to pay a nominal fee of a few dollars. The island's relief is not high, but the view is beautiful.
From here you can see a pleasant combination of cacti, salt expanses and all-terrain jeeps looking harmonious against this background.
Fishermen's Island got its name because of its shape. During the rainy season, in the middle of a water-filled salt lake, he looks like a fish out of water.
Little Italy (Pequena Italia)
The name is unusual for Bolivia, but local residents nicknamed this place because, in their opinion, it resembles the narrow streets of Italian Venice.
From a distance, the place really resembles a city with rocks that you can climb in search of a river panorama, a green valley, colorful llamas and bizarre stone figures.
Cascada
Cascada is a place where not all guides take you. You can ask for this yourself, but everything remains at the discretion of the driver: whether there is enough time and whether he has the desire. Remember this Latin America.
We were lucky and this little curious item was added to the program.
From high majestic rocks A view opens up to an almost Grand Canyon with a dried up serpentine river below... Perfect place for photo!
What may be useful
I’ll give you some tips on what is best to take with you on a trip:
Other nuances
Remember that you are in Bolivia, which means punctuality not guaranteed here. I had a funny incident. The driver promised to come in the morning at 05:00 and pick us up. We were ready for this time and walked like sleepwalkers around the dark hotel, where there was no one except us. There was no light (that’s when flashlights came in handy), no breakfast, no clarity. The driver, who had only 4 fingers on his hand, said that this is the nickname everyone knows him by.
There was a light looming in the distance and a car was accelerating, and I decided to walk and look for our driver, because I didn’t want to waste precious time. I borrowed a lantern, dressed in everything warm and, breathing in the frosty air, set off into the darkness under thousands of stars.
Seeing an old man making a fire in one of the houses, I confidently walked towards him:
-Good morning, do you know where 4 fingers are?
-Well, yes, our guide with 4 fingers.
Even in the pitch darkness, I could see a face full of bewilderment. The sound of a car approaching our hotel pulled me out of an awkward situation. I wished my grandfather Have a good day and went towards the dawn.
Everything turned out to be banal: the guide overslept. Therefore, be prepared that an inexpensive tour may have deviations from the program through no fault of yours.
Learn some Spanishaz, most often the guides do not know English. And although they don’t say anything particularly important, it can be nice to at least understand in general terms what they are talking about.
Feel young, regardless of age. Bolivians in the highlands look much older than their years. I was shocked when it turned out that the driver was my age, and the women in the village were not carrying their grandchildren on their backs in multi-colored scarves. An excellent opportunity to rejoice in the fact that we were well preserved.
Relax and have fun. The place is unique, and the fact that you see it will be great in any case, whether it happens in the rainy season or the dry season. Still, God is great at coming up with and implementing this in 7 days. It seems to me that the entire human imagination would not be enough to create such a miracle.
When I become an adult and rich, I will come here again, buy a private tour for 5 days and drive around colorful lakes, walk along fancy stones and while away hours in search of chinchillas and vicuñas.
Table salt has been mined on Earth since ancient times. Its reserves are found in many places on our planet, but one of the largest salt marshes is considered to be the Uyuni salt marsh, which is located in Bolivia not far from the city of Uyuni.
Landscapes of the Uyuni salt marsh
This is the bottom of a dry lake, which is located at an altitude of 3650 meters above sea level. His inner part consists of table salt and reaches a thickness of up to 8 meters.
The cracked surface resembles alien landscapes. Sometimes in the middle of the desert you can find peculiar “islands”, ledges or small mounds on which cacti and small shrubs grow. These are the peaks of once formidable volcanoes that went underground during the time of the huge Lake Minchin that existed here in the period 30,000 -42,000 years ago.
Sometimes there are such “islands” here 
The most unusual sight can be observed in the Uyuni salt marsh after rain. The surface of the dry lake is covered with a thin layer of water, in which the sky is reflected.
Local economy
The Uyuni Salt Flat plays a large role in the Bolivian economy. Experts estimate the reserves of table salt at 10 billion tons, while annual production is no more than 25 thousand tons. There is also a large amount of sodium chloride, from which lithium is obtained, suitable for the production of batteries. About 50%-70% of the world's lithium reserves are located in these places.
An unusual attraction in the Uyuni salt marsh is the steam locomotive cemetery. Trains were used in the early 20th century to transport minerals. Also, the nearby town of Uyuni was a transport hub distributing trains to Pacific ports. But from the 1940s to the 1950s, the mining industry declined and trains were no longer needed.
Today, the remaining trains attract tourists who want to get a glimpse of Uyuni's industrial past. Local authorities are developing a program for the development of tourism in the region and plan to turn the “steam locomotive cemetery” into a museum for open air.
Tourist Information
Every year many tourists come to see the Uyuni salt marsh. In addition to the steam locomotive cemetery, people are attracted to the “islands” overgrown with cacti and, of course, the world’s largest mirror. Tourists love to walk ankle-deep in water and admire the sky reflected in the water. After such an impressive walk, it’s nice to relax in a cozy hotel. Hotels made from salt are especially popular among tourists!
Nature has endowed these regions with large reserves of salt, so local residents began to use it in many fields of activity and even in construction. These hotels are made entirely of salt blocks. One of these hotels is located in the village of Kolchani. It has 8 single and 16 double rooms. Its guests can use a sauna, jacuzzi, bath and steam bath. The highlight of the hotel is that the furniture and interior (tables, chairs, beds, clocks) as well as the walls are made of salt. Some tourists try to taste it all, so after several such cases, the hotel owners hung up signs saying “do not lick”!
In hotels located on the edge of the Uyuni salt marsh, walls, ceilings, floors, furniture and even clocks are made entirely of salt. At the same time, all rooms provide modern amenities, including a sauna, bath, bathhouse, and jacuzzi. One night in such an establishment will cost a tourist twenty dollars, and he will be required to comply with the main rule of the hotel, which appeared after the owners began to notice that the furniture began to shrink in size: “No licking!”
The Uyuni Salar is notable for being the largest dry salt lake in the world: its area exceeds 10.5 thousand km2, and it is located at an altitude of 3.5 thousand m above sea level. m. The Uyuni salt marsh is located in Bolivia, in the south of the high desert plain of Antiplano, near the city of Uyuni.
From the capital of Bolivia, La Paz, it is unique phenomenon nature is separated by about 500 km to the south, and on geographical map this area can be found at the following coordinates: 20° 11′ 14″ S. latitude, 67° 32′ 57″ W. d.
Locals They are convinced that the salt lake is the bitter tears of the abandoned Tunula, whom her husband, Cusco, left with a baby in her arms and went to another, Cousin. After his departure, the woman sobbed bitterly for long days and nights - and her tears, mixed with breast milk, formed a huge salt lake, the Uyuni salt marsh (interestingly, that’s what the Bolivians call this area - Tunula). The gods, seeing this, enchanted the three people - and now they rise high mountains on the outskirts of the salt marsh.
Geologists explain the appearance of this phenomenon differently. They claim that 40 thousand years ago there was Lake Minchin here, which dried up over time: the lack of tributaries and the hot sun did their job. In its place, several ordinary lakes and two salt marshes were formed, separated from each other by mountains.
The appearance of the Uyuni salt marsh was influenced by the formed reservoir, which did not have any tributaries. The water in it evaporated much faster than precipitation fell, as a result, the amount of salt at its bottom constantly increased. After the water had completely evaporated, a solid layer of salt formed in place of the lake, turning the area into a salt marsh.
Description
The layer of salt that covers the Uyuni salt marsh is uneven and its thickness ranges from several centimeters on the outskirts salt lake up to ten meters in its center. During the rainy season, a layer of water 30 cm thick accumulates on the surface of the salt marsh, which creates a mirror effect: the sky, sun, clouds and other objects are so accurately displayed underfoot that it seems as if all the people around are literally floating in the clouds.
But during the dry period, grooves appear on the surface of a dried-up reservoir, which, connecting with each other, form a “honeycomb” - these are mostly hexagonal shapes, but can often be seen with five, seven or even eight sides.
In the very center of the Uyuni salt marsh there are the destroyed remains of the craters of long-dormant volcanoes, which at the time of Lake Minchin were completely under water. Their tops are covered with fossils and algae, and only bushes and cacti grow on them - the only vegetation adapted to life in this area.
Flora and fauna
Since the Uyuni salt flat is completely covered with a layer of salt, it is not surprising that there is practically no vegetation and fauna here. Among the wild animals that live here are foxes, viscaches (rodents that resemble rabbits), and alpacas. The only plants you can see are huge cacti, the height of which reaches twelve meters, or several types of shrubs.
During the rainy season, more than eighty species of birds fly to the Uyuni salt marsh, among them the South American pink flamingos, which acquired their amazing colors by eating algae algae growing here.
Birds live here because the algae and crustaceans on which they feed are not found in freshwater, and therefore, being the only food for these birds, force them to live in not very favorable places: the water here is so alkaline that, if not for the extremely thick skin, could easily corrode living flesh.
Minerals
It is interesting that under the thick layer of salt (and there is more than 10 billion tons of it here) there is brine - water containing, in addition to salt, magnesium, gypsum, and also the lightest metal - lithium. Geologists claim that the Uyuni salt marsh contains about 100 million tons of this metal, which is more than half of the world's reserves.
Lithium is considered a very promising metal: it is used in the manufacture of laptops, cell phones, batteries and other equipment, and presumably will soon find use in the mass production of batteries for electric vehicles.
Despite the prospects, Bolivians have a negative view of lithium mining in the salt flat, and therefore foreign companies that have tried to build factories here have encountered resistance and rejection from the authorities (which is not surprising, since the Bolivian government itself is planning to address this issue).
Climate
The warmest weather here in summer is in December and January, when the mercury shows daytime temperatures of +22°C, but the nights here are cold throughout the year. From November to March there is a rainy season. Tourists need to take this point into account, since the tour may well be canceled or rescheduled due to large quantity precipitation: salt water can damage your car. This period is an ideal opportunity to watch flamingos, which just fly here to nest.
In winter it is not very cold here: temperatures fluctuate around +14°C, but frosts are common at night, and the mercury thermometer can drop to -11°C. There is little precipitation here at this time, and therefore the Uyuni salt marsh is an absolutely dense plain. Therefore, it is during this period that the peak tourist season falls - from June to August.
How to get to this wonderful place
Mostly tourists come to Uyuni from the capital of Bolivia, La Paz. There are several ways to get here from La Paz:
- Airplane - an airport was opened in Uyuni several years ago. From La Paz you can fly here on planes of two airlines at once, which allows you to quickly get to your desired location (especially if you give preference direct flight, which does not transit into any city).
- Buses from La Paz go daily via Oruro, so total length The road to be covered from La Paz to Uyuni is 569 km.
- With transfers - you can get from La Paz to Oruro by bus (the journey will take about four hours), and then transfer to a train going to Uyuni (since the bus station is located some distance from the railway station, you will have to take a taxi).
Location: Bolivia
Square: 10,588 km²
Coordinates: 20°10"41.9"S 67°30"48.6"W
Short description
It is impossible to surprise a modern traveler, spoiled by a huge number of offers from travel agencies. Many sights, architectural and historical monuments in various cities and countries are so amazing and unique that it seems simply impossible to see an even more amazing creation of ancient people or a miracle created by nature itself.
View of the Uyuni salt marsh
However, this is a big misconception. There is always something in the world that amazes the imagination; something that takes your breath away; something where you want to return again and again. In this material we will talk about the largest lake in the world, but, as you might guess, not about an ordinary body of water, but about a beautiful dried salt lake - the Salar de Uyuni.
Lake Uyuni Salar is located in Bolivia, in the southwest of this amazing country, in the vicinity of the city of Uyuni, on the territory of the departments of Potosi and Oruro and at an altitude of almost 4,000 meters (!) above sea level. This is the largest salt marsh in the world, its area exceeds 10,500 square kilometers, and the thickness of the salt layer in some places is almost 10 meters. Every year hundreds of thousands of tourists from all corners of our vast planet come here to see with their own eyes the “endless kilometers” of salt expanses, visit unusual salt hotels and capture on cameras and video cameras this miracle of nature, which, by the way, can change its appearance more than once during the day. coloring
Mounds of salt
Salar de Uyuni: history of formation
Before talking about the history of the formation of the largest salt lake, Uyuni, it is perhaps worthwhile to dwell a little on what salt marshes are and how they appear. All salt marshes on our planet were formed on the site of former water basins. In a lake where there is no runoff, and the rate of moisture evaporation exceeds the amount of precipitation that falls on the given territory, the concentration of salt in the water increases over time. When the water completely evaporates, a hard salt crust forms on the surface, which allows scientists to call the drying lake a salt marsh.
The Salar de Uyuni is part of the Bolivian mountain plateau The Altiplano, which, as mentioned above, is located at an altitude of about 4,000 meters above sea level. On this plateau, in addition to Uyuni, there are other salt marshes of much smaller size, as well as freshwater and salt lakes.
Salt mining
The history of the formation of the largest Bolivian salt marsh goes back to prehistoric times. About 30-40 thousand years ago, Uyuni was part of the huge Lake Minchin, which, under the influence of time, was transformed first into Lake Tauka, and later into Coipasa. After its partial drying, there remained two existing lakes Poopo and Uru Uru, and two salt marshes - Coipasa and Uyuni, separated from each other by a number of hills.
During the rainy season, Lake Poopo and its much larger neighbor, Titicaca, overflow their banks and cause natural flooding of the salt marshes of Coipas and Uyuni. The small amount of water that covers the salt layer of Uyuni transforms the salt desert into the world's largest mirror. “Having found yourself in any part of the salt marsh during the period when it is covered with water, it seems that you suddenly found yourself on another planet: the sky is both above and under your feet. The spectacle is indescribable in words. It creates a feeling of “floating in the air.” However, when you put your hand in the water and grab a handful of what you’re standing on, you realize that there’s a ton of salt around, which seems to never end,” a tourist who visited Lake Uyuni shares his impressions.
Indeed, the salt reserves in the Uyuni salt marsh are truly enormous. According to rough estimates by experts, there is about 10 billion (!) tons of salt here, and approximately 25 thousand tons of this natural mineral are mined in this area every year. First of all, it should be noted that the Uyuni salt flat is of great importance for the Bolivian economy. At the same time, it is necessary to take into account the fact that it stores huge quantities of lithium chloride, from which lithium is extracted, which is used in the production of rechargeable batteries.
No less connected with the ancient lake ancient legend, its essence is as follows... A long time ago, the mountain ranges that today surround Uyuni, Tunupa, Cusco and Kuzina were giant people. Kusku married Tunupa, but the beautiful Cousin managed to charm him. Kusku left his wife and ran away from home, even though a child was growing up in the family. Tunupa grieved for a long time, shedding tears day and night. Her tears mixed with the breast milk that she fed her son, and they formed a snow-white salt marsh lake. For Bolivians, Tunupa is a deity whose name, in their opinion, the lake should bear.
Salar de Uyuni salt hotels
Local residents who extract and process salt from Uyuni use it not only as a seasoning for food. Traders offer all travelers who come to admire one of the main attractions of Bolivia to buy a souvenir made from this natural mineral. In addition, city guests are invited to stay in hotels in which the walls, roof and some furniture are made not of expensive modern building materials, but of... salt.
Such hotels were first built in the mid-90s, in the very “heart” of the salt marsh. The news about such colorful hotels instantly spread throughout all countries: the influx of tourists exceeded all expectations. However, due to many sanitation problems that adversely affected the surrounding area, the hotels were closed and dismantled. Over time, they were rebuilt again, but on the outskirts of the salt marsh and in compliance with all environmental norms and standards.
One of the salt hotels
Modern salt hotels have all the necessary amenities, including a sauna, steam room and jacuzzi. The daily cost of such apartments will cost a tourist about 20 US dollars.
Lake Uyuni Salar: Train Graveyard
When going to Bolivia to Lake Uyuni as part of an excursion group, almost all tourists, at the beginning or at the end of their trip, make a stop at the train cemetery. Today the population of the town of Uyuni does not exceed 15 thousand people, but once it was major center Bolivia with its railway network. The decline in income from the mining industry, which began back in the 40s of the last century, led to the complete collapse of the railway in this territory. Huge electric locomotives, locomotives, carriages and trolleys were abandoned. Some examples of the train graveyard are over a hundred years old. Among them you can even find locomotives from Garratt and Meyer (these people were among the first to build articulated locomotives), but, unfortunately, they are all in rather poor condition. In 2006, the local administration raised the issue of creating an open-air museum on this site, but so far this idea has not been brought to life.
Train Graveyard
Salar de Uyuni: flora, fauna and climate
On the territory of the world's largest salt lake, as you might guess, there is practically no vegetation, the only exceptions being 10-meter cacti and small shrubs, which local residents use as fuel. In the period from November to December, which, by the way, is considered summer in Bolivia, you can see another stunning picture here: hundreds of pink flamingos walking along the endless salty surface of the lake. In some areas of the Uyuni salt marsh live foxes and small viscacha rodents, somewhat reminiscent of the well-known rabbits.
The rainy season begins in November and ends in March. The air temperature in the Uyuni salt marsh area in summer is +22 degrees Celsius. A hot day in Bolivia always gives way to cold nights. June, July, August (winter in South America) are considered tourist season, despite the fact that during the day the air warms up only to +13 degrees Celsius, and at night the temperature can drop sharply to -10.
As mentioned above, the Uyuni salt marsh is located quite high above sea level, and tourists arriving from the flat area will experience discomfort for several days (dizziness, attacks of nausea, vomiting, shortness of breath and headache). It will take several days for the body to get used to the new climate. Local residents chew coca leaves to keep their spirits up. The townspeople also advise visitors to use them, saying that they help fight unpleasant sensations. However, all travelers should know that coca leaves not only have a tonic effect, but are also a powerful drug that can cause persistent addiction in a short period of time.
Brief conclusion:
▫ Book no need online(more expensive and useless)
▫ In Uyuni, we immediately go to agencies and choose who we like. All of them are opposite the railway station, coordinates: -20.463591, -66.823359
▫ All tours start from Uyuni to 10.00-10.30
▫ Agencies are open from 7.00 to 19-20.00. If you arrive by night bus, you have time to book a tour for today, buy a hat and have breakfast.
▫ We bought in Andes Salt Expeditions, but everything depends on the guide-driver, and not on the agency. Three days tour 105$ + additional payment for the national park 22$
▫ You don’t have to spend the night in Uyuni, tours end at 17.00 . Then by night bus to where the free wind calls
▫ « Mirror"should be during the rainy season from January to early April. In fact, in 2018 there was water in the salt marsh in May and even in July.
Bolivian Altiplano, Lagoon Colorada
Below there will be a lot about prices. Multiply the amount in Bolivians by 10 to get ≈ in rubles.
How to get to Uyuni
▪ Airplane from La Paz, 45 minutes, 80-95$ one way
▪ Bus
From Potosi - 4 hours, from 20 BOB / 3$
From Tupis - 6 hours, from 40 BOB / 6$
From La Paz - 10 hours, from 60 BOB / 9$
Tickets at ticketsbolivia.com or at the station.
Direct bus La Paz - Uyuni is only available at night. 15$ for seven-kama and 22$ behind cama (expands 160 degrees).
During the day with a transfer in Oruro. We took tickets at the station on the day of departure, there are many buses, not all of them are available on the Internet. We went like this:
La Paz-Oruro, 9.30, 30 BOB ( 5$
)
Oruro-Uyuni, 14.00, 30 BOB ( 5$
). The road is good, the information about poor coverage is outdated.
Arrived in Uyuni 18.00
, spent the night, and in the morning we left on a tour for three days.
We went during the day because at night we wanted to sleep in bed. During the day the buses are cheap, old and uncomfortable. From La Paz to Oruro, the guy sold impotence powder. I yelled into the microphone for 3 hours to the whole salon. I wanted to kill him, but people liked the speech - they bought everything.
If you know how to sleep on a bus, take a ticket for night tourist no transfers. It’s quiet there, the backrests recline (you’re almost lying down), they give you food.
Uyuni on the map
Hotels in Uyuni
We booked Castillo de Liliana for one night, rating 7.3, $25. Pros: hot water, heater, breakfast, check-out at 10.30. The downside is that the bed linen was not changed, overall, wow.
Returning from the tour, we spent the night at Hotel Jumari, rating 8.6 , paid 50$ for a double with shower. There was a heater, hot water and a clean bed, better than the first option.
Sal Casa Andina stands out from a number of monotonous lodging houses (rating 9.2 ), but it's worth it 90$.
Prices for tours to Uyuni
Price per one on Spanish. On English 30-50% more expensive. I indicate average prices. Includes transportation, overnight accommodation, food, guide services (the driver will say a few words about each place).
1$ ≈ 7 bolivians (BOB)
1 BOB ≈ 9 rubles
1. Tour to 1 day(locomotive cemetery, Dakar statue, Uyuni salt marsh, cactus island, museum). 150 BOB + 30 BOB for the island of cacti. Total $26
2. Tour to 2 days(everything above + two lagoons and/or ascent to the Tunupa volcano, 4500 m), 500-550 BOB + 30 BOB for cacti. Total $84
3. Tour to 3 days(everything in the first + volcanoes + colorful lagoons with flamingos, geysers, swimming in thermal springs)
The lower threshold according to reviews is 600 BOB / 90$ (did not find such a price), average tour 720-850 BOB + 30 BOB cactus island (optional) + 150 BOB entry to Laguna Colorada National Park (required) + 6 BOB hot springs (optional). Total $130
Transfer to Chile is possible for a surcharge 10$ or return to Uyuni.
4. Tour to 4 days, ≈180$, return to the city of Tupiza, from there you can go to Argentina
How to choose a tour operator?
Salar de Uyuni There are more than 50 operators in Uyuni. Those in the top ten according to tripadvisor reviews are located opposite the train station. They drive in their own cars or hire freelance drivers.
We went to eight agencies. I wanted to find a jeep where there would be fewer people. The price and program are the same for everyone. Jeeps carry 6 passengers + driver. Departure to 10.00-10.30
We took a tour to Andes Salt Expeditions behind 105$ per person. They are #3 on tripadvisor and ready to negotiate. We bought it an hour before departure, no need to book in advance.
Overall ok. He was driven by a smart guy (he warmed up the car, treated him to lollipops, and joked).
It is believed that best time in Uyuni is February-early April, when there is water and a mirror effect. We were in mid-May. The driver knew where to look for the “mirror” at this time and made a detour on his own initiative.
I read hundreds of reviews about tours with different agencies, and they all had mistakes. Cars break down, delays, delays. It will be ideal only if you take an individual tour / rent a car and go according to your program. Private tours for 3 days ≈ $700-800.
What to take on tour?
In such clothes it is warm in the evening and in the morning, during the day you can go without a jacket and hat ▪ Toilet paper, soap - you can buy it in the night shelters on the salt marsh, but it’s just 3 times more expensive. I rented a towel at the hotel for 5 BOB ($0.7)
▪ Small money. Toilets during the tour cost from 2 to 5 BOB
▪ Power bank for the phone (there were no sockets during the second night)
▪ Chocolates, icicles, tangerines, water (3 liters was enough for two)
▪ Warm clothes: hat, gloves, jacket, sneakers, thermal socks. Sunglasses, cap, 50 sfs cream (not needed), sleeping bag (optional). Flip flops for the shower, swimsuit and towel for the hot springs.
Backpacks with MacBooks and summer clothes were left at the agency. Take with you only small backpacks with the necessary items. You can take a large backpack, it will go on the roof of the jeep.
Internet and money
There is no connection during the tour.
There were sockets only on the first night (about 30 in the common room)
There are ATMs in Uyun. Change currency at a bank, but it is better in La Paz (the exchange rate is more favorable).
We paid for the tour in dollars, for the hotel and cafe in Bolivians.
It's hard to breathe due to the height and strong wind Altitude and mountain sickness
The heights are:
City of Uyuni, 3700 m
Solonchak, 3650 m
Overnight in San Juan, 3900 m
Overnight in the Colorado Lagoons National Park, 4400 m
Geysers, 5000 m
Below 4000 meters everything is ok. It's hard to spend the night at 4400. I had a headache and even missed dinner.
The French in our group drank three bottles of beer every evening and cheerfully ran around the Altiplano. The driver was chewing coca and looked great. Everything is individual.
Tour program by day
1200 km in three days on roads without asphalt
Day 1
▪ Locomotive Cemetery, 20 minutes. Before the trains transported useful metals and minerals to Chile. Then everything was covered, the locomotives were abandoned.
▪ Village with souvenirs, 1 hour
▪ Saline Uyuni. Dakar statue, island with flags (no Belarusian ones)
▪ Dinner in a hotel made of salt. The drivers carried food with them. We had llama meat(haven't tried it), rice, salad, banana, omelette.
▪ Salt marsh again, games with perspective
▪ Incahuasi Cactus Island, entrance 30 BOB. You can climb for free somewhere on the side. We didn’t go to the island, we hid in its shadow and enjoyed the absolute silence.
Cacti 12 m tall
▪ "Mirror"— we stopped by where the water remained in May. The Italians took mirror photos of themselves. It came out beautifully. At the same time, the boots were bleached with salt.
▪ We drove past fields with quinoa, watched how the grains were separated from the spikelets (they rode on them in a jeep).
▪ At 18.00 we arrived at the hotel from salt. A room with two beds, shower and toilet for everyone. We slept in our clothes.
Shower is paid 10 BOB. I quickly went because an hour later 7 more cars (40 people) arrived at the hotel.
For dinner, chicken, fries, fried eggs.
Day 2
▪ Breakfast at the hotel (tea, rolls, jam). Departure at 7.30
▪ Railway and the volcanoes of Chile in the distance
▪ Observation room with a view of the volcano
▪ Canapa Lagoon, flamingos
▪ Hedionda Lagoon, more flamingos. Lunch here and 2 hours
▪ Another lagoon where no one wants to live
▪ Arbol de Piedra- many, many stones and a “Stone Tree”. Four viscachas (mountain viscachas) met there. This is such a huge rabbit with the tail of a squirrel and the behavior of a chinchilla. He eats from his hands and allows him to stroke his head.
▪ Laguna Colorada— a red lagoon and thousands of flamingos somewhere far below. We flew to Bolivia for the winter from Chile and Argentina. How are they not blown away by the wind? Here they paid for entry into the national park 150 BOB (22$ )