Cape San Vicente is the most southwestern point of continental Europe. The end of the world, only thousands of kilometers of cold waters are farther Atlantic Ocean. Every evening, on the high rocky shore of the cape next to the picturesque lighthouse, several dozen lucky people gather to watch one of the most beautiful sunsets in the world. We were lucky to be among them, and today I will show you the resulting photos.

Cape San Vicente has been especially revered since ancient times. The ancient Romans called this cape Saint. They considered him sacred place where the sun hisses into the ocean. This cape was the end of the world for them. Modern name Cape is rooted in the legend of St. Vincent, who was martyred - his body was found on this cape.

The emotions that overwhelmed me made me want to jump.

Landing after the last jump, he is just captured in the photograph, his right foot slipped off the stone, bending the foot inward. Something in the right ankle there was a crunch and I, unable to keep my balance, fell on a rocky plateau a meter from a multi-meter cliff. A moment later, it was as if a huge needle had stuck into the leg, it darkened in the eyes ...

I was sure it was a fracture. The leg instantly swelled up and became twice as big as the left one. I had to go to the hospital.

In the meantime, the sunset had entered its main stage. Of course, there could be no question of any hospital - this was not why I traveled several thousand kilometers here, in order to look for a Portuguese hospital instead of sunset.

By this time, night had already fallen in most of Europe, and only a narrow strip of the Atlantic coast of Portugal was still illuminated by the red rays of the star closest to our planet.

Suddenly, a dozen and a half tourists who came here froze enthusiastically, everyone spoke quietly, in an undertone, as if afraid that the sun would be frightened by loud sounds and refuse to sink into the ocean. After a minute it became very quiet. It seemed that the ocean decided to calm down for a while, subduing its ardor. Even the seagulls stopped screaming like crazy and silently flew over the calmed waves.

I was reminded of the scene from Knocking on Heaven's Door when Martin and Rudy are drinking tequila in the back of the hospital. True, there it was about the sea, and not about the ocean. But what the hell is the difference?

You stand on the shore, and you feel the salty smell of the wind that blows from the sea. And you believe that you are free, and life has just begun. And lips burns girlfriends kiss, soaked in tears ...

...

Understand, in heaven they only talk about the sea. How infinitely beautiful it is... About the sunset they saw. About how the sun, plunging into the waves, became scarlet as blood.

And they felt that the sea absorbed the energy of the luminary into itself.

And the sun was tamed, and the fire was already burning down in the depths...

The sun went down, the rocks were painted in muted gray colors. The ocean again continued to peck at the cliffs with the same force, evenly rolling in huge waves. The seagulls screamed in fright, they were clearly not happy with the twilight swallowing the earth.

The last bright colors in the sky gradually faded. Now the whole of Europe has been covered by a dark April night...

The show will go on!

PS: We found the hospital in a few hours, although not without difficulty, but still found it in. My fears about the fracture were not confirmed - it was just a very strong dislocation. After paying 50 euros for a doctor's examination, we went to the hotel to sleep. The fourth day of stay in Portugal is over...

Cape Saint Vincent is unique in that it is located on the edge of the earth insouthwestern portuguesethe Algarve region, and as a whole represents the most extreme southwestern tip of Europe. The cape ends with a steep rocky shore with poor vegetation.The height of the rocks is approximately 75 m. The cape surrounds the Ocean from 3 sides. It's always windy herea strong wind, and powerful waves break with noise against sheer rocks.There are no trees at all, because it is almost impossible to take root on bare rocks. The name of the cape is connected with the history of the Iberian deacon St. Vincent.

Who is this and what is his holiness?

St. Vincent is known in Orthodoxy under the name of Vincent of Saragossa.He was born in the 3rd century AD.
in Spain. At the age of majorityHe was ordained a deacon by the Bishop of Zaragoza.
Vincent showed oratorical skills and he began to preach Christianity,originated in the pagan Roman Empire. Roman authorities becameto persecute the preachers of Christianity, and the Christians themselves were persecuted. Vincent and the bishop were seized and sent to trial in Valencia.

At the trial, Vincent was subjected to terrible torture,
and on January 22, 304, he was burnt. After all, Vincent's body was thrown into the field and guards were placed so that the Christians could not bury him. However, a raven appeared near the body, which did not let anyone near the body, neither people nor birds, no animals. Then the authorities decided to throw the body into the Mediterranean Sea, which was done.But when the guards sailed to the shore, they saw a body lying on the shore.They fled in fear, and a certain widow buried the body of the martyr.

Word of this quickly spread throughout the Roman Empire and Vincentgained immense popularity among the people. In the VIII century, Valencia was captured by the Moors, but the Christians saved the relics of St. Vincent, transported to the capeand buried, and a small chapel was installed on his grave, which was always guarded by ravens. Franciscan monks protected the church and the remains of St. Vincent from the Moors, remaining there until 1834, when all the monasteries in Portugal were disbanded.

In 1173, the body of St. Vincent was transported to Lisbon on a ship accompanied by ravens.The transfer of this relic is depicted on the coat of arms of Lisbon.
In the 12th century, St. Vincent was declared patron saint of Lisbon. His relics are kept
in the Church of San Vicente di Fora. He is also the patron saint of winegrowers, vineyards and sailors. There is a monument to St. Vincent in Lisbon, and on the lanterns in Lisbon you cansee a ship with two crows: one in front of the ship - the other behind.

In the Age of the Great geographical discoveries it was from here that ships went on sea expeditionsin search of new lands.
On a cape on the very edge of a 75 m high cliff.
in 1846 on the site of the former church, where St. Vincent was buried, a lighthouse was built,the light of which is visible at a distance of 32 nautical miles. It serves as a landmark for ships sailing to or from the Mediterranean.to Europe and America. Starting from the middle of the 14th century and until the 19th century, at Cape St. Vincent, with the participation of the fleets of different powers, several major naval battles.

Not far from the cape is the town of Sagrish, where the ruins of the 18th century Fortaleza fortress stand on a rock.do Belishe, whose walls could have witnessed those battles.

Here is the end of the earth. Standing on a rocky shore feel like sand
in the hands of nature.Ahead for hundreds of kilometers only the boundless waters of the Ocean,
behind which America is hidden, and breathes in the backold Europe.
This is what makes the western coast so attractive.Algarve - precisely with its rocks and their pristine wildness.

Cape San Vicente (Cabo de São Vicente), the extreme southwestern point of Europe, is the main attraction of the Portuguese province of Algarve. There are always many tourists here. They take pictures, carelessly approaching the cliff itself, - “here I am, at the end of the world!”, feast on German “Wurstchen” at the “Last Sausage Before America” kiosk, and around seventy-meter cliffs crash into the ocean surface. One is like the prow of a ship, the other is like a protruding tongue, and all together like a clawed stone paw that wants to reach the horizon. "Shshshtotam, shshshtotam ..." - the waves say. What's there? In the south - Africa, in the west - America, any student will answer you.

Cape San Vicente

Since then, when Cape San Vicente was for Europeans the boundary of the inhabited world, and they did not know Africa
(with the exception of the northern part of the mainland), nor America, a little more than five centuries have passed. For our
planets is one moment. Picturesque rocks that tourists photograph today have not changed, but
people's ideas about the geography of the Earth have changed dramatically.

The second half of the 15th century is considered the beginning of the era of the Great Geographical Discoveries: they follow one after another, as if someone had prepared the triumph of navigation in advance. And indeed it is! It is difficult to say how much later Europe would have learned that there are other lands beyond the immeasurable water desert, if not for a man whose name is not known to everyone - the Portuguese Infante Enrique (Henry) the Navigator (Infante Dom Нenrique o Navigator). Just as in cinematography, audience love goes to famous actors, and the director, the true inspirer and organizer of the action, often stays in the shadows, the names of legendary discoverers are well known in the history of navigation. Everyone has heard of Vasco da Gama, Columbus, Magellan… but Enric the Navigator? During his life, he made only three close voyages and did not discover any new lands. Nevertheless, Enrique the Navigator rightfully deserved his honorary title.

Infante Enrique (1394-1460), the third son of King João I of Portugal and Philippa of Lancaster, distinguished himself in his youth during the capture of the North African port of Ceuta (this sea campaign of 1415 marked the beginning of the Portuguese expansion in North Africa). After the Ceuta company, the Infante had no shortage of tempting offers of a military and diplomatic career. However, the descendant of the Portuguese and the nephew of the English kings retires into the wilderness, to the very south of Portugal, and, becoming the governor of the province of the Algarve, equips sea expeditions one after another. What for? To reach from the sea West Coast Africa, and if you're lucky - find a sea route to the East, to India, where there is an abundance of what is worth its weight in gold in Europe - spices. Infante Enrique seemed to foresee the future: after the Ottoman Turks defeated Byzantium in the middle of the 15th century, the way to the East by land was closed to Europeans.

What country, if not Portugal, should look for a sea route to the land of spices? The "Cinderella of Europe", pushed to the very edge of the continent, having no access to the connecting peoples, inhabited a thousand years ago mediterranean sea, Portugal faces only the ocean, from which, unlike the sea, there was no use, except for fishing not far from the coast. Who dares to sail south along the African continent beyond the legendary Cape Nun (from the Portuguese "nao" - no), if, according to the ancient authority in the field of geography Ptolemy, Africa - a deadly desert - froze to the Antarctic ice and it is impossible to go around it. Even more hopeless is the way to the west across the boundless ocean, teeming with unprecedented monsters.

But not only superstition and fear of the unknown did not allow sailing ships to go far to the sea. It was no less difficult for sailors of that time to go on an ocean voyage than for modern man make a space flight. The art of navigation was in decline, the experience of the sailors of antiquity and the Vikings, who reached at the end of the 10th century to North America, has been largely forgotten. The imperfection of the ships, the lack good cards and more or less accurate navigational instruments, inept and timid sailors - this is what Enrique encountered when he started his sea expeditions. What was to be done? Learn to navigate!

Ponta da Piedade. Rocks near Lagos

How interesting and contradictory this strange prince ... His motto was the words "Talent for good deeds." Severe and ascetic, he did not start a family and in 1420 became the supreme master of the knightly Order of Christ, the successor to the Knights Templar, dissolved in 1312. Infante Enrique was a romantic dreamer who eagerly listened to the stories of captains about distant lands, a fanatical missionary who sought to spread Christianity around the world, a tough businessman who established a successful trade in African slaves. But most importantly, he was an intelligent organizer and a perspicacious researcher. Secluded in Sagres, just east of Cape San Vicente, Enrique the Navigator created the first navigational school in Europe.

Here is how Stafan Zweig describes it in the novel "Magellan. Man and His Deed" (1938):
“According to, perhaps, the romanticizing reports of the Portuguese chronicles, he ordered books and atlases to be delivered to him from all parts of the world, called on Arab and Jewish scientists and instructed them to make more accurate navigational instruments and tables. Every sailor, every captain who returned from a voyage, he called to him and asked in detail.All this information was carefully stored in secret archive, and at the same time he equipped a number of expeditions. Infante Enrique tirelessly contributed to the development of shipbuilding; in a few years, the former barcas - small open fishing boats, the crew of which consists of eighteen people - turn into a real naos (Portuguese name for a caravel - M.A) - stable ships with a displacement of eighty, even a hundred tons, capable of sailing in stormy weather open sea. This new, fit for long-distance navigation the type of ship also led to the emergence of a new type of sailors. To help the helmsman is the "master of astrology" - a specialist in navigation, who knows how to understand portolans (navigation charts - M.A.), determine the deviation of the compass, and mark the meridians on the map. Theory and practice creatively merge together, and gradually, in these expeditions, a new tribe of sailors and explorers grows from simple fishermen and sailors, whose deeds will be completed in the future.

We reap knowledge with a vengeance,
Where only death loomed first.
We know - beyond the abyss of the storm
The distant blue sky rises.

The turn for the small: so that from the words of people
Huge waves of the sea changed the way.
Fernendo Pessoa

sea ​​monsters. Illustration from Cosmogarfia by Sebastian Münster. 1550

From 1416 until the death of the Infante in 1460, dozens of ships went out into the ocean at his will and on his (and in fact the orders
Christ) means. The ships set off from a convenient harbor in the city of Lagos (Lagos), which is east of
Sagresha. The first voyages were made on single-masted barges, from the 1440s on three-masted caravels
with slanting "Latin" sails. On the white sails of the caravels, a scarlet cross was inscribed - a sign of the Order of Christ.
The captains did not dare to turn back: the infant, enraged by failures, was more terrible for them than any marine
monsters. Why Enrique did not personally participate in the voyages remains not entirely clear. Perhaps it was considered
that it was fitting for a person of royal blood to sail only for military purposes, and not for research purposes. Maybe,
the Infante himself believed that he was more needed on land than at sea.

Portuguese caravel

Infante Enrique and the school of navigation on the secluded shore were legendary among contemporaries. What can we say about later times, when after pirate raids and the GREAT LISBON EARTHQUAKE of 1755, there was no trace of the school left - only a strange stone disk resembling a wind rose. They write that Enrique was a cripple, a gloomy hunchback, that he never went to sea at all, that the navigation school did not exist at all, that some secret order operated under the guise of the school ...

Nuno Goncalves. Altar of San Vicente (1456-67).
Right in the second row - Enrique the Navigator

But back to reality. What were the results of the expeditions? It may seem that among the amazing discoveries of the subsequent decades, they are rather modest. Roughly, as a flight to the moon compared to landing on Mars. But it was these voyages that became the first step towards conquering the ocean. In 1419, the island of Madeira was discovered (in general, by chance, the ships would not have dared to sail so far to the west if they had not been blown away by a storm), in 1427 Diogo Salves reached Azores. In 1460, Diogo Gomes discovered some of the islands of the Cape Verde archipelago. After many unsuccessful attempts in 1434, Captain Gil Eanish managed to move south along the African continent, rounding the fatal Cape Bojador (26 ° north latitude). The cape seemed for a long time to be an insurmountable barrier, because in this place a shoal stood out far into the sea, and the sailors did not dare to move away from the coast in order to bypass it. Chroniclers report that the captain brought the infanta from this significant voyage wild roses, plucked south of the cape Bojador.

Portrait of Enrique the Navigator.
Fragment of the San Vicente altar.

The psychological barrier was taken, and the following expeditions moved further and further south. By 1444 the caravels from Lagos had passed southern border Sahara and reached fertile and populated coast Africa. Enrique's dream came true to penetrate the African mainland, bypassing the desert by sea! Since that time, voyages along the African coast have become purely commercial - gold was brought to Portugal, "white gold" - ivory and "black gold" - slaves. The slave market in Lagos flourished. Alas, here the infant was the first in Europe!

Slave market in Lagos

A captain leading a ship through a steep wave
He sees how far away, exhausted and weak,
Together with the latest galley goes to the bottom
A non-swimmer slave.
Fernando Pessoa

Monument to Enrique the Navigator in Lagos

Enrique the Navigator did not see the main fruits of his efforts. In 1486, Bartolomeu Dias reached the southern tip of the African continent and circled it. Vasco (Vashku) da Gama (it is significant that he was born in the same 1460, when Enrique died) fulfilled the plan of the Infante and in 1498, bypassing Africa, sailed to Calcutta. In 1500, Pedro Alvares Cabral discovered Brazil. The Portuguese navigators did something that Infante Enrique could not have imagined: in 1543 they reached Japan! The achievements of Portugal could have been even more significant if King Juan I had not rejected the proposal of the Genoese Columbus in 1485, and King Manuel I in 1515 - the project of his compatriot Fernao Magalhaes, who, having turned into Fernando Magellan, went to the service of Spain. As a result, the voyages of Columbus and Magellan were made under the Spanish flag and for the Spanish crown.

Portuguese sea - combustible salt,
Our tears and grief, Portuguese pain!
How many tears you stole from their mothers eyes
How many of their sons sleep in the depths of yours,
How many lovely brides did not go down the aisle,
So that you, the sea, finally become your own!
Maybe the sacrifices are in vain, and all is nonsense?
But the soul is torn into the distance, although it is really hard.
Who drove ships to the Green Cape,
He then did not see the Portuguese land.
How many abysses are in you, the sea - you are a risk and a catch,
But only heaven and God look at you!
Fernando Pessoa

From the "Cinderella of Europe" Portugal turned into the queen of the seas, but not for long: already in the 16th century, its decline began. The era of the great geographical discoveries is the highest rise in the history of this country. Portugal remembers to whom it owes the fact that it has become for mankind a springboard to the Atlantic, and honors Enrique the Navigator. In 1960, on the 500th anniversary of the Infante's death, two monuments were erected in Portugal. The first is a monument to Enrique the Navigator in historical center Lagos, near the embankment of the river, along which his ships went out into the ocean. We know how Infant Enrique looked like in his mature years thanks to the Portuguese artist Nuno Gonçalves. In the grandiose altar of San Vicente (1456-67) there is a portrait of Enrique the Navigator, accurately recreated from a lifetime miniature from the "Chronicle of the Conquests of Guinea" of 1453. Immortalized in dark bronze, Enrique appears the same as Nuno Goncalves portrayed him - proud, intelligent, strict.

The second monument - "Padrao dos Descobrimentos" (monument to the discoverers) - is installed on the waterfront of Lisbon, at the mouth of the Tagus River. This is a 52-meter tower in the shape of a caravel, on board which the famous Portuguese ascend: kings, knights, priests, captains, cartographers, artists, poets. Among them are Vasco da Gama, Luis de Camoens (Luis di Camoes), the author of the poem "Luisiades" celebrating the discovery of India, Fernando Magalhães-Magellan, artist Nuno Goncalves. Figures flow around the deck on both sides, and in front, on the bow of the ship, stands Enrique the Navigator with a model of a caravel in his hands. He looks to where wide Tejo flows into the ocean, as if trying to see unknown lands beyond the horizon, in the south - Africa, in the west - America.

Monument to the discoverers in Lisbon

You, the captains of flying years,
You boatswains - to which vague goal,
Melodies unknown after
Dare to wander through the oceans?
Perhaps the sirens sang to you,
But the meeting was not judged by the expanse of the sea
With sirens - only with a witch's song.

Who sent you news from across the sea,
He foresaw everything, undoubtedly knowing
That not only the call of wealth is
For you, and not one earthly greed,
But there is another thirst -
The desire to listen to the expanse of the sea
And rise above the vanity of the world.
Fernendo Pessoa

Mouth of the Tejo. View from observation deck monument to the discoverers in Lisbon.

Morning again pleased with the sun and a delicious breakfast.

Yes, you need to set an alarm here, but in sunny and warm country when you have to get up early just to see more or spend more time on the beach, it's a pleasure.

Today I will go to Cape San Vicente.
There is a bus stop not far from the hostel. I'll leave early, given my topographical cretinism on this trip, I can look for a stop for a long time.

At the bus stop good news- the bus that I wanted to get on goes not only to Sagres, but also to the very cape. Great, although I am mentally prepared to walk 6 km one way.
I stand, I wait, I rewrite the schedule. Finally, from around the corner he appeared, the bus, which joyfully flashed the inscription - Cape San Vicenta merrily swept past me, filled with tourists. What the hell?

It turns out that the direct bus to the cape does not stop in the city anymore. And then the next one will stop, which will only take me to Sanresh. Well, I was mentally prepared to go on foot. The weather is favorable, so it's not scary.
3.8 euros one way. beautiful road, snow-white houses. That's how much white is around. I remember that even in Panama I was surprised by the number of white cars, but here the white architecture is very pleasing to the eye.

An hour later we landed at Sagres. I can say that I immediately liked it here. As I understand it, you can judge the quality of the city by the bus station. If it’s big and noisy, then it’s not very good, but if it’s just a stop on the main square, then this is what you need.

The area is just the same as it should be in seaside cities. White, with a palm tree and a blue sea in the distance. Absolutely such a panel that I did not have time to complete. But I will finish it, because if there is no way to see it in reality, then at least how.

In the distance I saw it - a lighthouse. This is the place where I have to go. Visually it seems that it is not necessary to go along the road and you can cut along the field, which runs along the picturesque coastline.

Here it is civilized Europe, in the middle of a field on a road on which there is no one there is a pedestrian crossing.

So I do, turn into the bushes and go. To be honest, in the first 15 minutes I was glad that the direct bus passed me, otherwise I would not have seen all this splendor.




Who there said that the south of Portugal is not interesting and not beautiful. I only see the good and the wonderful. Like yesterday, my favorite landscapes. Severe rocks and long coastline. Waves crashing on rocks and a riot of elements. Plus, it's all lit up by the sun. Young and not very surfers conquer the elements, and I continue my way along the path. No one walked here except me, and it was great. Complete harmony with nature and no one around. Plus, of course, security. In Nicaragua, under similar conditions, I was a little complex. And here is complete peace.

I walk through the bushes, but from time to time the path leads to the road anyway. It's good that I went in the morning, and not as LP advises at sunset. There was a lot of time for stopping and unhurried contemplation. The sun was beating down, I thought after a walk I would treat myself to the beach. From the height of the harsh rocks, the beaches looked very tempting.

After 1.5 hours I reached the lighthouse. As I expected, the lighthouse disappointed me. Yes, there is a good view from there if you got there by bus and did not see the landscapes along the way. But, if you walked and saw all this splendor, then the parking lot filled with tourist buses, tourists eating hot dogs in restaurants, and paid toilets are unlikely to strike your imagination. Mine wasn't hit. Like yesterday, the best landscapes were up to the publicity points. To the ponta de pierdade, to the lighthouse of Saint Vincent. I tried to figure out from what angle all these fantastic postcard photos were taken, probably from a boat or with a large zoom.
In the lighthouse itself there is entertainment - to sit on a large chair. I didn't hold back either.

Well, dinner is eaten, it's time to go back. As it turns out, my attempts at cutting were exceptionally good for enjoyment. natural beauties. In terms of speed, the asphalt road is the most short cut, even though from a distance it seems that you can get there faster.

Along the way, you can go to the Beliche fortress, which is also a so-so attraction. There is also beliche beach, it is pretty. But I decided that I should go to the city and while away the time already there, in close proximity from the bus, in case of natural disasters.

Indeed, the weather began to deteriorate the moment I left the lighthouse. As always, I'm lucky.
I also thought that I would wait here for the bus that leaves the cape at 15 something. But 2 hours there is absolutely not good to do, unless you follow the paths along the rocks further north.
Therefore, I made my way back along the road in 50 minutes.
There is a fortress almost in Sagres itself. The entrance seems to be paid, but around the same paths already familiar to me, windingly dotted with bushy-sandy terrain. They offer a slightly different view. The wind is getting stronger, I'm afraid it might blow it away. I didn't go to the fortress.

Firstly, there were a lot of people there, secondly, there was a paid entrance, and thirdly, I looked towards the lighthouse, where I had recently sat on a luxurious chair and was horrified. There was a wall of rain. I'm not afraid of him, today I have a full uniform with me, but I'm already tired, and full of impressions. It is unlikely that the fortress will bring me much new emotions. However, I am very pleased that I turned to this lapel. Found romantic place on a stone where you can sit and look around. If you look straight ahead - surfers are conquering the waves, if you look to the right - people are sunbathing on a long beach, if you look to the left - the waves are breaking on the rocks. Great places to hang out. And what is surprising, a minute walk from the fortress with a million tourists and no one.

Well, it's time and honor to know. The rain is getting stronger. Tea is served in a small cafe along with Wi-Fi and a toilet. Here you can pass the time before the bus. Looks like today is not a beach day for me. It's not scary, I'm full of impressions and I'm on an emotional upsurge. Rapprochement with nature helps to place accents. You look at all this, for example, how big a person is compared to this rock. How insignificant we look on such a scale. How many deca-tons of water are here, how many kilograms of stones, how many kilometers of sky. All this has existed for so many years and will continue to exist for so many more ... We have come and gone, often leaving behind not the best trace, but all this will remain and will delight those who come after us.

Alas, there are fewer untouched places on earth. As those who traveled 10 years ago say, everything was completely different. How giant hotels spoil the green forests and the sea panorama, how unsuccessfully restaurants with noisy music often fit into the virgin ocean shore, how ugly the chimneys of factories look on the mountain landscape. All this was done by a man.
But in such places, I seem to descend from heaven to earth. You see in the distance on a rock a miniature dot that is a person, and you realize the scale and greatness of an inhuman creation.

Lots of camping cars. But how convenient for conquering roads. I thought.

Sagres is a great city! Here you can always find a place where you will be completely alone.
The bus arrived on time, the main thing is not to miss my stop. The buses are very good Manu Chao. Thank God, I noticed the necessary pointer in advance and got out correctly. Although I would not be surprised if I went to the bus station. It's on trend for me.
After a busy day, you want to treat yourself to something tasty.
For example, half a grilled chicken, cheese with holes and, miraculously, I saw oysters. For only 5 euros 6 or 8 pieces. Didn't hold back. Still today is mine the last evening in the Algarve, you can posh.

The world favors me in the face of people and weather. Just like on order!
It turned out that I had lost the habit of delicacies, or that the oysters were simply larger than usual. Opened with great difficulty. In the beginning, I had to take off my jacket, then every 10 seconds to wipe the sweat off my face, nervously adjusting the protective rag in my palm. But still, you can’t drink away the experience, after 30 minutes, open oysters, generously poured with lemon, are beautifully located on a plate. According to the law of a sandwich, what was obtained in unbearable agony was swallowed up in a miserable 5 minutes. I had to snack on grilled chicken aesthetically. It's good that only Germans live here with me. The French would not survive such an insult.

One of the Germans said that for the first time he saw a Russian person speaking English. Hm. Some nonsense. I think we all speak it. And even on several.

It started raining again in the evening, and Madeira is waiting for me tomorrow. The news from there is disappointing. Downpour and thunderstorms. I don't need this. Only 5 days to get to know the island. In addition, the cyclone should come to Lisbon tomorrow, and it's scary to fly into the cyclone. So I'll go to bed and think positive.

Moral of the day: Sagres is an awesome city! Moral number 2 - my second plan for Portugal, implemented in this moment, much more logical and better than the original, interrupted by hepatitis. What is not done is all for the better, which was once again confirmed by the bus that did not stop at my stop.

Goodbye Algarve! Hello Madeira!

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